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Has anyone here installed an electric fuel.pressure sender to run a gauge in the dash on the gs400. I have searched here and Google to no end. I'm wondering if Russel makes an adapter to t in the 1/8 not sender. I won be able to get under the hood till this weekend to see the fuel line setup.
So just curious if anyone has done it and what parts you used so I can order them.
1 other problem I had. I ordered on Amazon an aem fuel.pump that it stated was compatible with my car. However it was your standard universal fuel pump that they give you the 2 clamps and small hose piece to adapt it. As I'm sure you all know our fuel tank hangers have the fuel filter the fuel.pressure reg and everything else in a proprietary unit. The stock fuel pump has a large fat nozzle that fits into the hanger tube. My aem has a skinny oring tube. It does not fit tight into the hanger tube. Pics soon.
a universal fuel pump will not work in our cars. we have a returnless fuel system. the fuel pump that powers it is called a turbine style pump that is pulse width modulated with changing voltage. if you call walbro they will explain to you in detail how the pump works and what model number you'll need to order. just out of curiosity, why are you replacing the fuel pump? and yes there is an easy way to install an electric fuel pressure sender that will attach to a gauge inside the vehicle. there are bolts in the ends of the fuel rails that you can remove and install the correct metric fitting that will allow the sender to attach to it.
Sorry for late reply. As stated my work week is busy so I don't get to wrench or anything much till weekend. Here is my fuel pump delima. Amazon listed this as compatible pump. Notice the difference in tubes
Stock pump on left
I also found the thread pitch info for our rails. Now just need to buy adapter for sender. My reason for doing this is 2 fold. 1 BC I have a swap going into this car in couple months and was already going to need the gauge installed. 2 I been running a p0171 code for a while now and my stft and ltft get worse as the RPM accelerate. That could only mean fuel delivery. The engine just hit 300k so changing fuel.pump is not a big deal for me. Just the engine. Is a little diff than what I'm used to (LS engines)
Also I need to order a new fuel filter.as well. (The plastic curved piece in the hanger system. )
I also found the thread pitch info for our rails. Now just need to buy adapter for sender. My reason for doing this is 2 fold. 1 BC I have a swap going into this car in couple months and was already going to need the gauge installed. 2 I been running a p0171 code for a while now and my stft and ltft get worse as the RPM accelerate. That could only mean fuel delivery. The engine just hit 300k so changing fuel.pump is not a big deal for me. Just the engine. Is a little diff than what I'm used to (LS engines)
Also I need to order a new fuel filter.as well. (The plastic curved piece in the hanger system. )
300k miles!!!! friggin A thats what I'm talking about. yes a new pump is probably in order. but, typically, if fuel pressure was dropping out you'd get lean codes on both banks. have you smoke tested the intake system? cleaned or replaced the maf sensor?
i have smoked it and found no leaks. even though im only gettin the bank 1 code. even after a ecu reset both my stft and ltft go to crap. and they rise as the rpms rise. if they where to fall as rpms rise it would be a vacuum leak. Yes 300k. also do you have any thoughts on the fuel pump issue. notice out fuel pump has a larger male end on the tube and oring. the aem is smaller. it did not fit tight in the hanger. I dont mind ordering another pump off rockauto and saving this one for a dual pump setup when i swap it. but the rock auto pic looks about the same. i just wanna make sure its a direct drop in. also anyone know where to order the fuel filter?. its located inside the plastic curved piece in the hanger assembly
i have swapped mafs also. still no change. ill dig more into it this weekend. rough start up and idle for first 20 secs then it runs ok.
Interesting. that tells me that the car is running rough while its in open loop. which is using a preset fuel map. so if there is a fuel system issue, the computer cant compensate for it. with that many miles on the car, I would highly recommend installing some new injectors. they don't last forever and toyota does have issues with fuel injectors with higher mileage. and a new fuel pump too.
I was getting p0171 for quite a while with my K&N so I switched to stock intake. That helped but the code would still pop up every so often. I recently found out that both catalytics were cracked at the flange closest to the exhaust manifold. I had the cracks welded up and it seems to have resolved the p0171 code. Not sure if you might have the same problem, but I believe an exhaust leak can also cause the P0171 code.
Just an update everyone. As stated I was able to watch stft and ltft under different loads. As rpms rose stft did not get better either bank. My stft and ltft where in high 30+ . this signals a fuel problem. Or a massive vac leak. I did check for leaks with makeshift smoke machine. And the butane torch. Since I thought it was fuel delivery I ordered the correct denso fuel pump this time. I figured car has 300k on it and it does not hurt to replace it. I also had a spare o2 sensor from another parts car. I swapped these two out. As I was under the car swapping o2 I noticed oil leaking from valve cover gasket. I tightened the screws that where really loose.
Fired up car and immediately my stft dropped to negatives and started evening out my ltft. Now the car runs like a champ again. No more cel.
Fuel pressure gauge 1uzfe vvti
