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You were my spirit animal guide when I was trying to figure this crap out lol. No one on the RC side knew anything about this. I find myself posting more over here than there which is still appropriate since I had a 2015 IS250 F Sport lol
It was doing it before you just don't here it untill intake and/or exhaust is added
Originally Posted by Ray20213
Are you still running stock exhaust? Because I noticed mine started doing it after I installed my aftermarket exhaust
You don't hear it stock cause you don't here the turbo spool, mine started when I added burger Motorsports intake it started blowing of loud and and spooling with a whistle to it, I noticed then that at certain accelerations I would have kind of a surging in my spool instead of a smooth spool up, when I added the exhaust it didn't make it any more or less. I've Been told it's from a vacuum regulator valve that goes out around 15,000 mi but I'm not sure I'm looking for info too
Thanks to the contributors on this thread! I swapped out my boost control solenoid valve and the upgraded wastegate hose on my GS200T and wow what a difference. I wasn't experiencing the noise or a rocking sensation but I did notice a back and forth sweeping on the OEM boost gauge at part to heavy throttle. It didn't correlate to any abrupt power loss that I would be able to replicate at the dealer so I decided to do this on my own even though the vehicle is under the CPO warranty.
I have the BMS JB4 and I immediately noticed the boost come on stronger and stay on stronger through the gear, the datalogs show the same. The boost gauge is now showing a more steady delivery of boost. I thought something was a bit off prior when I turned off the JB4 and the car actually felt faster on the top end without it.
The car had 43K miles and the valve was original. I followed the youtube tutorial and left that second inner bolt off as suggested in the video. In hindsight I should have added loctite to the single bolt holding the valve but it was pretty snug either way.
I am really hoping I don't have to do this on our NX since the valve is facing the firewall due to the transverse mounting of the engine.
Here is the problem with what Toyota did to the 8AR engine.
Normal Turbo wastegates are closed without any engine operation. So the wastegate will get the boosted pressure and open the wastegate to slow or stop the boost.
With the 8AR, Toyota placed a vacuum pump on the backside of the engine. This makes a vacuum and that vacuum is routed to a vacuum regulator valve (VRV) and yes make sure you change the hose as well. This VRV is controlled by the ECU which regulates the vacuum to the wastegate.
Here is the problem unlike the normal example in the beginning, the 8AR is backwards, when there is no engine operation it stays open and uses vacuum to close it and operates in reverse. So Toyota made us dependent on that VRV and keeps us from putting on aftermarket boost controller.
Until there is a turbo that we can bolt on without having to do major plumbing with a normal style wastegate actuator to use normal boost controller we are stuck.
Here is the problem with what Toyota did to the 8AR engine.
Normal Turbo wastegates are closed without any engine operation. So the wastegate will get the boosted pressure and open the wastegate to slow or stop the boost.
With the 8AR, Toyota placed a vacuum pump on the backside of the engine. This makes a vacuum and that vacuum is routed to a vacuum regulator valve (VRV) and yes make sure you change the hose as well. This VRV is controlled by the ECU which regulates the vacuum to the wastegate.
Here is the problem unlike the normal example in the beginning, the 8AR is backwards, when there is no engine operation it stays open and uses vacuum to close it and operates in reverse. So Toyota made us dependent on that VRV and keeps us from putting on aftermarket boost controller.
Until there is a turbo that we can bolt on without having to do major plumbing with a normal style wastegate actuator to use normal boost controller we are stuck.
It's easier to just have a tune control the boost using the factory hardware. The D3 tune I installed controls the boost wonderfully. The tune can be modified by the end user. No need for an aftermarket controller with this setup.
It's easier to just have a tune control the boost using the factory hardware. The D3 tune I installed controls the boost wonderfully. The tune can be modified by the end user. No need for an aftermarket controller with this setup.
If the hardware (VRV) is damaged nothing going to control that vacuum to close the wastegate give you boost (remember it's backwards)
There is no aftermarket controller that will work with the 8AR control of the wastegate it's all done by the ECU which yes a tune will do it.
I thought we were talking about the VRV needs changing not controlling the boost. I just used that analogy about how a normal wastegate would work and why that VRV has us screwed into replacing it.
Last edited by timghetta; Nov 4, 2020 at 06:24 PM.
Actually right now I am looking to see if a (normal) wastegate actuator maybe on the older ct20 stock turbo can replace the (reversed) one by a simple bolt on and we can use a normal boost controller.
If the VRV fails, never have to worry about that again.
If the hardware (VRV) is damaged nothing going to control that vacuum to close the wastegate give you boost (remember it's backwards)
There is no aftermarket controller that will work with the 8AR control of the wastegate it's all done by the ECU which yes a tune will do it.
I thought we were talking about the VRV needs changing not controlling the boost. I just used that analogy about how a normal wastegate would work and why that VRV has us screwed into replacing it.
You had mentioned installing an aftermarket boost controller which is usually used for turning up the boost. One the oem hardware is replaced with the revised valve and hose, everything works great.
i had an issue , if i push accelerator from zero turbo fail ! , and i here some sound from engine side if hold pushing full at accelrator look like no pressure , but if i push when i speed up to 60 km/s turbo open but slowly
also i had hold message in dashboard , reduced engine power
It was doing it before you just don't here it untill intake and/or exhaust is added
i thought it was "normal" and just needed a tune to push it harder