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Just went over 30k miles, noticed the valve is making noises and starting to fail.
Lots of surging power when wot. Some turbo flutter too lol.
Current valve is performing pretty close to the noises and behavior from the clips above, just less/more quite.
I noticed lots of surging and always thought it was normal, valve did not make any noises until today when it rolled past 30k.
Valve is still somewhat functional with daily driving but will surge when asked for full boost.
No tune.
Have installed on the car:
FTP charge pipe (20k)
Injen intake (13k)
Oil-catch can (14k)
Turbo muffler delete (22k)
Glad this happened without any tune so I know it is isolated.
IS200t build date is 8/16.
Will be replacing for the first time and will open up the failed part once I have a new one installed.
Update:
Replaced my planned 30k spark plugs and went for a night drive.
Valve is working fine and making no noise when temperatures are low (60-70F).
But during the day when it is +75F, the valve starts to make noise.
Maybe heat-soak is killing valve?
As a quick fun test, before new part arrives will relocate valve and wrap it in some heat-shielding.
Will update again.
Another update:
Thought I was the exception to the failing valve since made it to 30k but alas here we are.
Relocated valve with some spare time between studies.
Did not have any spare thermo/insulating tape laying around.
For now I'll have to enjoy the surging turbo lag whenever it does decide to start failing again.
My warranty is out so asking dealership to diagnose is out of question, besides it steals all the mystery and fun.
Part arrives 2mrrw at the Toyota dealership (~$103), my local Lexus stealership wanted (~$250).
Will order some spares from Sheddy's link later on (~$70 shipped).
Plan to switch out the valve in the parking lot of the dealership and skip the lines/wait time.
My factory part:
16 T 096
Faulty parts anything before (reference posts above):
16 T 217
Hopefully dealership will have the revised part or a date much more recent.
Recommend:
Removing intake piping
Uncliping alternator line
Removing the harness plug to the alternator
Remove harness plug above the valve
Unbolting the bracket holding the large harness in front of it (10mm)
Having a reaching magnet handy because if you drop anything it will not hit the ground/floor due to the cover
To create working room. Otherwise impossible.
Both bolts (10mm) are upside-down in a difficult location.
Outer bolt took ~15mins, inner bolt close to ~45mins.
I needed to use a 360 rotary bit for the inner bolt (last pic).
Could not fit a flat wrench nor short socket bit.
My heart goes out to people/techs working on the NX200t/300, since the valve is now in the BACK!
TL;DR - 2018 new part didn't fix buzzing.
Please watch Volvo clean video.
I hope you can learn something from what is provided.
Finally got the part from the dealership.
The part I was supposed to receive was sent to another dealership for another 8ARFTS.
Part came in today from Germany and has the name Pierburg (BMW/Mercedes/Volvo/VW OEM) on it.
The equivalent part number is: Pierburg 7.00513.16 / pa6.6-gf35 (also printed on top/side).
Did get what appears to be a 2018 part. Which should fix the buzzing.
Installed in the dealership parking lot (5mins) and drove home.
Awkwardly it still buzzes, and makes noises just like my 2016/stock/old one, just less frequent.
Car seems smoother, but could be placebo.
For now, I guess I will have to drive with a moaning/buzzing valve which gets unwarranted attention.
Kinda embarrassing lol.
Here is a cleaning video of a similar valve but Volvo OEM:
This should give some insight to how the internals are.
Unfortunately, the Toyota version won't be able to disassemble this way.
I bet its poor lubrication on the main shaft/plunger assembly from the factory which is leading to failures.
Also thinking of modifying the old part to where I can service it regularly.
Or just end up buying the Volvo version from the video, modifying it with better grease and fitting it on.
Towards the end, there is great insight and I think it applies to us as well.
In one video, a person removed the sponge filter to get better boost response (Volvo valve).
Probably not good for the internals of the valve.
This is as much as I can remove other than the black plastic shroud that holds the filter on top of the intake.
Going to ultrasonic clean the valve tonight and maybe cut it open once I find a way to re-seal it.
Will update with results. Until I do, my Lexus in Texas is not feeling very well to drive.
TL;DR - 2018 new part didn't fix buzzing.
Please watch Volvo clean video.
I hope you can learn something from what is provided.
Finally got the part from the dealership.
The part I was supposed to receive was sent to another dealership for another 8ARFTS.
Part came in today from Germany and has the name Pierburg (BMW/Mercedes/Volvo/VW OEM) on it.
The equivalent part number is: Pierburg 7.00513.16 / pa6.6-gf35 (also printed on top/side).
Did get what appears to be a 2018 part. Which should fix the buzzing.
Installed in the dealership parking lot (5mins) and drove home.
Awkwardly it still buzzes, and makes noises just like my 2016/stock/old one, just less frequent.
Car seems smoother, but could be placebo.
For now, I guess I will have to drive with a moaning/buzzing valve which gets unwarranted attention.
Kinda embarrassing lol.
Here is a cleaning video of a similar valve but Volvo OEM:
This should give some insight to how the internals are.
Unfortunately, the Toyota version won't be able to disassemble this way.
I bet its poor lubrication on the main shaft/plunger assembly from the factory which is leading to failures.
Also thinking of modifying the old part to where I can service it regularly.
Or just end up buying the Volvo version from the video, modifying it with better grease and fitting it on.
Towards the end, there is great insight and I think it applies to us as well.
In one video, a person removed the sponge filter to get better boost response (Volvo valve).
Probably not good for the internals of the valve.
This is as much as I can remove other than the black plastic shroud that holds the filter on top of the intake.
Going to ultrasonic clean the valve tonight and maybe cut it open once I find a way to re-seal it.
Will update with results. Until I do, my Lexus in Texas is not feeling very well to drive.
I can’t see Sheddys video it says unavailable. Can somebody post one of what the surge looks like and the buzzing sounds like.
Compared filters between the 2016 & 2018.
The composition was definitely changed, thus makes sense why the 2017+ valves are different.
This morning I drove the 2018 part without the filter (not recommended) as a test and bam the buzzing/moaning went away.
Car is perfectly smooth (as much as can be) and boost is consistent.
My conclusion has changed, I think its the restriction of the filter and the buildup of dirt/dust/grime on it.
So I'm happy and solved, and will be seeking to find a less restrictive filter moving forward.
Will test to see if my 2016 (31K miles) part is still functional with a less restrictive filter and we'll see how long it can keep going.
Will be moving back to data logging before OVTuning.
Compared filters between the 2016 & 2018.
The composition was definitely changed, thus makes sense why the 2017+ valves are different.
This morning I drove the 2018 part without the filter (not recommended) as a test and bam the buzzing/moaning went away.
Car is perfectly smooth (as much as can be) and boost is consistent.
My conclusion has changed, I think its the restriction of the filter and the buildup of dirt/dust/grime on it.
So I'm happy and solved, and will be seeking to find a less restrictive filter moving forward.
Will test to see if my 2016 (31K miles) part is still functional with a less restrictive filter and we'll see how long it can keep going.
Will be moving back to data logging before OVTuning.
i would actually take that filter out completely if it is indeed the reason for the irregular boost issue and buzzing sound, i would find the inlet line to the solenoid and add an inline filter in the correct diameter to filter the air before it even reaches the solenoid.
Compared filters between the 2016 & 2018.
The composition was definitely changed, thus makes sense why the 2017+ valves are different.
This morning I drove the 2018 part without the filter (not recommended) as a test and bam the buzzing/moaning went away.
Car is perfectly smooth (as much as can be) and boost is consistent.
My conclusion has changed, I think its the restriction of the filter and the buildup of dirt/dust/grime on it.
So I'm happy and solved, and will be seeking to find a less restrictive filter moving forward.
Will test to see if my 2016 (31K miles) part is still functional with a less restrictive filter and we'll see how long it can keep going.
Will be moving back to data logging before OVTuning.
Upgraded the filter on the solenoid lol. It does get quite dirty in the filter housing. Took the whole thing off and put a breather filter on. We'll see if it helps any.
Upgraded the filter on the solenoid lol. It does get quite dirty in the filter housing. Took the whole thing off and put a breather filter on. We'll see if it helps any.
Looks like I am starting to have the same problem. When I get to around 12 o'clock on the gauge it starts to fluctuate like a tach hitting the rev limiter and get the “jerky” acceleration. I am surprised this is not a recall yet. Is there an aftermarket fix for this? Not that they would be more reliable but I’ve seen several fixes from several members on this thread and isn’t this actually a wastegate?
Looks like I am starting to have the same problem. When I get to around 12 o'clock on the gauge it starts to fluctuate like a tach hitting the rev limiter and get the “jerky” acceleration. I am surprised this is not a recall yet. Is there an aftermarket fix for this? Not that they would be more reliable but I’ve seen several fixes from several members on this thread and isn’t this actually a wastegate?
Not that I know of, but the TSB actually does a decent job as the first TSB all they did was replace the actual boost regulator, but then they revised that TSB to include a bigger hose that connects to it and that seems to have fixed the issue. I had the new TSB done when I started having issues with my boost regulator,
Not that I know of, but the TSB actually does a decent job as the first TSB all they did was replace the actual boost regulator, but then they revised that TSB to include a bigger hose that connects to it and that seems to have fixed the issue. I had the new TSB done when I started having issues with my boost regulator,
TSB? I’m sorry I’m not familiar with that acronym. I am going today to set an appointment since it is under warranty.
04-20-19, 02:01 PM
which everyone loves, pictures!
