GS4hunnit

I was wondering if I choose to rebuild the 1UZ, if I deck the block to increase to the compression ratio and add a metal head gasket for increased durability that it would increase performance? Would it require tuning with a piggy back or a standalone for the increase CR or would the OEM PCM compensate for this? I've also read about porting and polishing the intake manifold for increased performance as this section is lacking on that behalf. However, the OP never got back to the thread to mention numbers to back the performance increase he claimed when doing it. Although, he said it really WOKE UP the 1UZ. It would be nice to have 300+WHP as an outcome when its time for a rebuild. Any insights?

SZA

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like a good idea on paper.

I would add ARP headbolt along with your Metal HG since you are wanting to raise the compression.

I don't think you would need a standalone. Maybe something to control Air/Fuel could suffice. But I could be wrong and I do not know if the VVT-i would interfere with the tuning of A/F.

As far as performance gains, yeah sure, you'll gain power, but probably not enough to satisfy your needs.

Still, I think it sounds like a good idea and at the end of the day, there really is only one way to find out if it is worth it.

GS4hunnit

It does sound good on paper and understanding the ways to increase performance on an engine, this sounds like a golden idea. As far as the VVTi being compatible with a piggy back such as the SAFC, its been done but with bolt ons like headers and intake. Moreover, the ARP studs would be ideal as well.

Referring back to my first post, I meant to P&P the heads, not the plastic intake manifold. I know it's designed for optimum torque down low, but the 1UZ needs to wake up up top. Any other ways to turn the FE into a "GE" head?

RoMiLex

It would be nice to know the areas to focus on when porting the intake. Hogging it out with no real plan and without solid measurements to go off of is a real bad idea. You can end up destroying flow in a hurry.

Also it would be recommended to look into piston replacement over shaving the head or block. Reason being that the timing will get thrown off a tad. Enough to counteract your possible gains.

tmf2004

iTrader: (15)

you could go with a SAFC 2 like Rock-a-lex who has headers, rear diff, and exhaust.... standalone etc i think is more for boost where your making a significant gain over stock...

last i checked the intake manifold is not plastic.. its aluminum... I should know i just polished mine...

NYKnick101

why raise compression. Why not lower CR and then twin turbo it?

tmf2004

iTrader: (15)

I agree with this. turbocharge

GS4hunnit

You're right, I had a brain fart and had an LS Series engine in my head.

We all know the outcomes of forced induction but, I'm trying to entertain the possibilities of a decent N/A build here.

Personally, I have never seen a "built" N/A 1UZ VVTi. I'm talking about P&P heads, cams, higher CR, etc matched with headers and bolt ons. It just sounds more interesting than the usual twin turbo or supercharger route. I am aware that Toyota engineered the 1UZ for a luxury car but, I am confident that it has the potential for a very potent N/A. Additionally, if Toyota accommodated the 1UZ with GE technology i'm sure it would put out closer to 400hp.

tmf2004

iTrader: (15)

so the LS has a plastic manifold? I guess you could call around and find a company that builds the 1UZ your and find out what kind of numbers your looking at by doing the P&P, headers, and custom exhaust... seems like an interesting project... There's a company that builds the 1UZ and sells complete long blocks but i can't think of the name...

GS4hunnit

Yes, the LSx series engines uses a polymer or whatever intake manifold. I think I know what you're referring to, maybe lextreme??

tmf2004

iTrader: (15)

maybe lextreme but i thought of this company

http://ttcperformanceproducts.com/

GS4hunnit

oh my damn...Thanks!

Rock-a-Lex

iTrader: (4)

As far as a built n/a 1UZ, there is a member on the Lextreme forums that did just this. People thought he was crazy because he dropped over $6k on engine mods alone (with install costs) without going FI. He got upgraded cams, pistons, rings, rods, bored, ported, polished and blueprinted. The result? Close to 400whp reliable n/a power! He also mentions that he runs high 12's in the 1/4 mile as well. I forgot his name and it was an old thread on those forums; maybe 5yrs back.

People do not understand the potential of our cars. For example, we all know that the tranny is sloppy and slow. With full bolt-ons that I have (minus the SC) and the addition of a 6mt tranny I am sure it would be a low 13 second car! I arrive at this estimate as I feel that the bolt-on mods (I,H,E,TC,LSD,Neo) bring the car to a 13.6-13.7 1/4 mile. The swapping of the tranny could easily make up .5 seconds in the 1/4 mile. It would be sick and RARE as people do not tend to drop this type of money on a 2GS and leave it n/a.

Good luck!

angus

iTrader: (4)

I don't know that a manual swap is really necessary, I have driven a few SC's and IS's (which have the same A650E tranny as us with the valve body and Tq converter and can say that they are more than capable of putting the power down and giving neck snapping shifts at WOT (while part throttle shifts remain streetable)

I don't know that a manual is going to give faster shifting unless you are a pro driver and even then it's debatable.

angus

iTrader: (4)

One thing is that if you are going to rebuild for higher compression, choose higher compression pistons and not decking of the head or block as this effects the quench zones.

Also, keep in mind that porting and polishing - while it can make power - can also negatively effect drivability.

If you make the motor more efficient by upping compression, cams etc. you'll need to add fuel to make more power - the stock ECU will only do so much (very little)

The key with N/A mods is that every little thing counts, 1-2hp here, 1-2hp there and they all add up.


IF it were me (and it might be one day) I would rebuild mostly stock with early 1UZ rods and maybe pistons, metal head gaskets and studs and then a low boost turbo, you'd be able to retain the stock drivability and make more power with a MUCH lower cost.

Even a 5PSI single turbo with no intercooler would make very significant gains (350-375hp?)