Waterpump replaced at 50k?!?!
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Driver School Candidate
Joined: Aug 2013
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From: MA
Waterpump replaced at 50k?!?!
For a good week or so my 07 Lexus IS250 AWD has been making a ridiculous metal to metal clanking noise as soon as the car is turned on. I figured out from a buddy of mine that it's the water pump. It was literally falling apart and he told me if I kept driving around it could possibly blow and ruin my engine or radiator or etc... With that being said I ordered a OEM Lexus Water pump straight from the dealership for $221 and paid $150 to a local connect at a friends shop to get it installed. Is this unusual that my water pump had to be replaced at 50k? Is there any way I could of prevented this?
*NOTE* I also had power train warranty which lasts for 6 years or 70k miles; whatever comes first. Just so happens my 6 years came last month.. Lol
*NOTE* I also had power train warranty which lasts for 6 years or 70k miles; whatever comes first. Just so happens my 6 years came last month.. Lol
You're new here so you probably haven't looked around much...but the water pump is the most common issue with the 2IS models. I had mine replaced at only 27k. All is good now at 70k.
Looks like the water pump may be going out on my wife's IS. It's also producing a noticeable rubbing metal noise as soon as the car is started. I'll wait until morning to inspect closer to see if there is dried coolant buildup around the water pump.
It appears that Aisin makes the OEM water pump. I've read here that some people have had their water pumps changed twice due to premature failure. It looks like replacing the pump looks fairly striaght-forward so I'll be ordering the part. Has anyone ordered a water pump from a different manufacturer? I see that Beck/Arnley, GMB, and Gates are a few manufacturers to name a few that produce water pumps for our cars.
It appears that Aisin makes the OEM water pump. I've read here that some people have had their water pumps changed twice due to premature failure. It looks like replacing the pump looks fairly striaght-forward so I'll be ordering the part. Has anyone ordered a water pump from a different manufacturer? I see that Beck/Arnley, GMB, and Gates are a few manufacturers to name a few that produce water pumps for our cars.
Last edited by MrG4Life; Nov 2, 2013 at 06:44 PM.
^^ I was feeling skeptical on getting the part made by Aisin but I hope their new water pumps have been made better since I'm pretty sure they are well aware of the failure rate.
I checked around the pump and there is no signs of leakage. When I changed the oil last month there were no signs of dried up coolant. The noise being emitted is enough for me to get the pump changed. I didn't think that I would be having to change the water pump on her car first.
I checked around the pump and there is no signs of leakage. When I changed the oil last month there were no signs of dried up coolant. The noise being emitted is enough for me to get the pump changed. I didn't think that I would be having to change the water pump on her car first.
Since the powertrain was up only a month ago, I'd try to get Lexus to warranty it in full. From the stories I've read on here, Lexus has seemed to have been relatively understanding of powertrain related issues even beyond the warranty period.
GL!
GL!
Lead Lap
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 705
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From: CA
I'm also in need of changing my water pump but I have yet to come across a clear DIY that explains how to do it 
I'd like to do this myself and save ~$700. A posted DIY doesn't say if a coolant flush needs to be done or anything.
I'd like to do this myself and save ~$700. A posted DIY doesn't say if a coolant flush needs to be done or anything.
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I don't recall seeing that a coolant flush is needed but you will lose some when you remove the pump.
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My sisters IS250 just developed the water pump issue and I'll be replacing it. Since Aisin makes the water pump for toyota/lexus i ordered an Aisin water pump of ebay for $110.00 shipped. While im doing that service I will also be changing out her sparkplugs cleaning the top of her valves and installing the token industries catch can system.
So I received my Aisin water pump and one thing I noticed off the bat was that something was etched off. If I recall correctly the area on the pump that has "Aisin" and "Toyota" stamped looks to be etched off. It makes me wonder if the pump is re manufactured despite the seller on eBay stating that is was new. Take a look
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Lead Lap
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 705
Likes: 3
From: CA
I found two posts that gave directions on how to do it but they do not include pics. I copied and saved it to a file on my PC and can post it here as one.
I don't recall seeing that a coolant flush is needed but you will lose some when you remove the pump.
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I don't recall seeing that a coolant flush is needed but you will lose some when you remove the pump.
Sent from my iPhone using IB AutoGroup
So I received my Aisin water pump and one thing I noticed off the bat was that something was etched off. If I recall correctly the area on the pump that has "Aisin" and "Toyota" stamped looks to be etched off. It makes me wonder if the pump is re manufactured despite the seller on eBay stating that is was new. Take a look
Sent from my iPhone using IB AutoGroup
Sent from my iPhone using IB AutoGroup
You have to obviously drain coolant.Remove the radiator hoses and the water outlet housing(at the top of the picture). An O-ring seals the water outlet to the water pipe so it might take a bit of effort to remove. Then remove the accessory belt and remove the water pump pulley. Then proceed to remove the pump. Take notes of where the bolts go as some of them are different in length.
In case anyone is curious, its relatively simple to do the install. You don't need to remove the AC compressor at all. There are only two tricky parts to it. The first is removing the water pump pulley. You don't need a special tool for this. You can use a screwdriver or something similar to counteract the spin of the pulley to allow you to remove the 4 bolts on it. The second is removing one bolt from the water pump that's partially blocked by the tensioner pulley. The repair procedure actually says to remove the AC compressor to allow you to remove the whole tensioner pulley assembly and gain access to the bolt, but this is not necessary. As lancematic pointed out to me, all you have to do is remove the tensioner pulley. It will be a left hand threaded bolt.
1) No AC compressor removal needed. Fer sure.
2) Draining antifreeze is a mess. Most came out when pump came out-YUK all over floor.
3) After removing guards-electronic driver, coolant reservoir (didn't remove engine floor pan-but oil filter access door) other parts etc -SEE PDF in previous post. Loosen slightly 4 bolts from pump pulley while belt is on, and give ratchet a quick pop to loosen. Watch knuckles! Belt helps to hold pulley. Remove pulley after taking belt out.
4) Remove Belt while moving tensioner with 14mm socket wrench to loosen.
5) There are holes on belt tensioner that align and lets you lock it with a 6mm bolt or screwdriver thru. Then remove tensioner pulley LEFT HAND THREAD -righty-loosy!!. Don't damage this expensive part! with mucho torque. (Could not get one bolt out due to tensioner pulley, so it needed removal.)
6) Be careful not to damage hoses while loosening them (cuts with sharp objects or pliers)
7) Replaced water pump, and belt. Idlers looked good, but it would be great if someone would suggest while taking all apart, exactly what parts are recommended to change at this time.
In case anyone is curious, its relatively simple to do the install. You don't need to remove the AC compressor at all. There are only two tricky parts to it. The first is removing the water pump pulley. You don't need a special tool for this. You can use a screwdriver or something similar to counteract the spin of the pulley to allow you to remove the 4 bolts on it. The second is removing one bolt from the water pump that's partially blocked by the tensioner pulley. The repair procedure actually says to remove the AC compressor to allow you to remove the whole tensioner pulley assembly and gain access to the bolt, but this is not necessary. As lancematic pointed out to me, all you have to do is remove the tensioner pulley. It will be a left hand threaded bolt.
1) No AC compressor removal needed. Fer sure.
2) Draining antifreeze is a mess. Most came out when pump came out-YUK all over floor.
3) After removing guards-electronic driver, coolant reservoir (didn't remove engine floor pan-but oil filter access door) other parts etc -SEE PDF in previous post. Loosen slightly 4 bolts from pump pulley while belt is on, and give ratchet a quick pop to loosen. Watch knuckles! Belt helps to hold pulley. Remove pulley after taking belt out.
4) Remove Belt while moving tensioner with 14mm socket wrench to loosen.
5) There are holes on belt tensioner that align and lets you lock it with a 6mm bolt or screwdriver thru. Then remove tensioner pulley LEFT HAND THREAD -righty-loosy!!. Don't damage this expensive part! with mucho torque. (Could not get one bolt out due to tensioner pulley, so it needed removal.)
6) Be careful not to damage hoses while loosening them (cuts with sharp objects or pliers)
7) Replaced water pump, and belt. Idlers looked good, but it would be great if someone would suggest while taking all apart, exactly what parts are recommended to change at this time.
Judging from this thread, it appears to be legit : https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...ter-pumps.html
