OBX Racing headers GS
03-28-13, 06:05 PM
#1
Driver
Thread Starter
OBX Racing headers GS
Ok guys I just bought the OBX Racing headers for me 2001 GS 430. For anyone curious about fitment, sound, performance, quality etc I will explain as best as I can. 1st the price was 375.00 shipped to my shop (located in Locust Grove GA 30248) from CA, took about a week. Once opened i thought the quality was pretty good. They are full stainless, 3/8" CNC machine flanges with TIG and MIG welded construction that I feel is really good. Second is the install. It took me a full day to swap these and I am an automotive shop owner so I highly recommend doing this on a lift if possible. It will make the install much much easier. The main issues I ran into on removal was the heat shields.
You do have to loosen the motor mounts from the cross member (4 17mm nuts), and lift the engine as high as possible to remove the old manifolds and heat shields. The right side was pretty simple but on the driver side you will need to remove the steering coupler from the lower shaft to the steering rack. Make sure you mark the joint, upper and lower splines not the rubber boots that can move prior to removal. I used white out. Once removed make sure to clean all the ports on the head using a fine grit sand paper or emery cloth by hand to remove all the buildup.
Now install I used the oe nuts but did buy new nuts-bolts for the collector to converter with all new gaskets. I also chose the oem gaskets on all 4 donuts and manifold. Now the tricky part, sad to say, is make sure you have the headers loose and start all the nuts before you tighten any of them. Due to the rear tubes you will not be able to get a few of them started if the header is remotely tight. Once all the nuts are on it will take a little while to tighten them all because you can't get a socket or even a ratchet wrench on 5-6 of the nuts. Yes using the old school open end wrench on this job is a must. SORRY!!!
Ok headers are on, the converters are on, (NOTE THE COLLECTOER IS FLAT AND NOT CONCAVED TO ACCEPT THE DONUT GASKET) that's ok i just centered up the gasket on the cat and bolted it up. It will bend a little, leave a minor gap and you will see the gasket but it does seal nicely. The next issue is the angle of the bolt holes on the rear of converter to the front exhaust Y-pipe will not match up. The bolt holes are roughly 2-4 MM off so I ended up cutting about 5/8 of the exhaust pipe so I could bend or twist the pipe to get the holes to align. Of course i had to weld the pipes up. One other issue you will have to correct on the install is the steering coupler or u-joint, it has an aluminum shield that needs to be removed, either cut or chisel off the cover. It will rub the pipe and cause the steering to catch. NOT GOOD.
So now they are installed and I love them. I can feel a difference in power and sound. The sound to some is annoying(MY WIFE AND 8 yr old SON) but my 11 yr old daughter loves it!! Exhaust system explained....new headers to the 2 front cats, 3rd converter removed and a Magnaflow Muffler, 2.50 in. Inlet/Dual 2.50 in. Outlet, Stainless Steel part #12268 installed, the resonators and rear mufflers removed, 2.50 in pipe ran into 15 inch stainless 3.50 in OD slant rolled double edge tips 15 in long. sweet! thanks for reading,
DC
You do have to loosen the motor mounts from the cross member (4 17mm nuts), and lift the engine as high as possible to remove the old manifolds and heat shields. The right side was pretty simple but on the driver side you will need to remove the steering coupler from the lower shaft to the steering rack. Make sure you mark the joint, upper and lower splines not the rubber boots that can move prior to removal. I used white out. Once removed make sure to clean all the ports on the head using a fine grit sand paper or emery cloth by hand to remove all the buildup.
Now install I used the oe nuts but did buy new nuts-bolts for the collector to converter with all new gaskets. I also chose the oem gaskets on all 4 donuts and manifold. Now the tricky part, sad to say, is make sure you have the headers loose and start all the nuts before you tighten any of them. Due to the rear tubes you will not be able to get a few of them started if the header is remotely tight. Once all the nuts are on it will take a little while to tighten them all because you can't get a socket or even a ratchet wrench on 5-6 of the nuts. Yes using the old school open end wrench on this job is a must. SORRY!!!
Ok headers are on, the converters are on, (NOTE THE COLLECTOER IS FLAT AND NOT CONCAVED TO ACCEPT THE DONUT GASKET) that's ok i just centered up the gasket on the cat and bolted it up. It will bend a little, leave a minor gap and you will see the gasket but it does seal nicely. The next issue is the angle of the bolt holes on the rear of converter to the front exhaust Y-pipe will not match up. The bolt holes are roughly 2-4 MM off so I ended up cutting about 5/8 of the exhaust pipe so I could bend or twist the pipe to get the holes to align. Of course i had to weld the pipes up. One other issue you will have to correct on the install is the steering coupler or u-joint, it has an aluminum shield that needs to be removed, either cut or chisel off the cover. It will rub the pipe and cause the steering to catch. NOT GOOD.
So now they are installed and I love them. I can feel a difference in power and sound. The sound to some is annoying(MY WIFE AND 8 yr old SON) but my 11 yr old daughter loves it!! Exhaust system explained....new headers to the 2 front cats, 3rd converter removed and a Magnaflow Muffler, 2.50 in. Inlet/Dual 2.50 in. Outlet, Stainless Steel part #12268 installed, the resonators and rear mufflers removed, 2.50 in pipe ran into 15 inch stainless 3.50 in OD slant rolled double edge tips 15 in long. sweet! thanks for reading,
DC
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10-22-13, 11:06 AM
#10
Driver
Thread Starter
sorry it took me a while to get these up here. Tell me your thoughts Please.
*** Ok as far as any issues thus far only one, I mentioned before that the header flange was flat instead of recessed to receive the Converter gasket and it did blow part of the gasket. I got new oe gaskets and did have to use the Heat resistant RTV and problem solved. *** I do get a lot of people look and say that doesn't sound like a Lexus..... I just smile and say thanks!
*** Ok as far as any issues thus far only one, I mentioned before that the header flange was flat instead of recessed to receive the Converter gasket and it did blow part of the gasket. I got new oe gaskets and did have to use the Heat resistant RTV and problem solved. *** I do get a lot of people look and say that doesn't sound like a Lexus..... I just smile and say thanks!
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MrBlack000 (05-23-20)
11-12-13, 01:59 PM
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11-13-13, 12:04 PM
#14
Driver
Thread Starter
1st run was all factory original car, second run was K&N air filter and exhaust mods, no CEL, no tune, nothing but bolt on. I have changed the Magnaflow muffler to a XL chambered Magnaflow and it is just loud, does have a HEAVY drone at 2k RPM but over and under is fine to me. Sounds good. Currently has 186xxx miles and no issues averaging 21-22 MPG
12-05-13, 10:32 PM
#15
1st run was all factory original car, second run was K&N air filter and exhaust mods, no CEL, no tune, nothing but bolt on. I have changed the Magnaflow muffler to a XL chambered Magnaflow and it is just loud, does have a HEAVY drone at 2k RPM but over and under is fine to me. Sounds good. Currently has 186xxx miles and no issues averaging 21-22 MPG
