Help on my NA-T Setup
08-02-12, 02:47 PM
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Help on my NA-T Setup
I need some help on my NA-T Setup...
My cousin had a MKIV Supra so he helped make a list for me...
He said I should go for 600hp...
But Im like... i just want a reliable 400-500hp Daily Driver...
So if you guys could help me... That would be great!
I would promise to post pictures of how the car looks like if you were to help me out!
Its just a list to get it up and running... as minimal as possible...
Im very new to this boosting/turbo stuff...
So please be patient with me...
This is what I have so far...
Keep in mind that this setup posted was for the 600hp setup...
*NA-T Turbo Setup*
Turbo - Precision Turbo 6766 Billet Wheel - $1,079.00
Exhaust Manifold – Stainless Turbo Exhaust Manifold
- $154.70
Down Pipe - Toyota Supra 2JZGE MKIV 4 inch Single Turbo Downpipe Midpipe with clamps - $285.02
Wastegate -
TiAL MVR 44mm Wastegate with V-band Flanges - $345.00
BOV - SILVER Tial 50mm Q Blow Off Valve BOV QBOV WITH FLANGE - $259.99
Fuel Pump - Toyota Supra MKIV 2JZGTE Turbo 2jz-gte Denso 850cc injectors & Fuel Rail- $610.00
Intercooler - Precision Turbo 750hp Front Mount Intercooler FMIC - $480.00
Turbo Fittings (Oil) - Universal Complete Oil Line Kit 4AN 10AN T Fitting T3 Turbo Flange Gasket T3/T4 - $93.97
Standalone - AEM Series 2 EMS Standalone ECU Supra 2JZGE 2JZ-GE - $1,595.99
And He also said some parts can be Ebay Parts...
But Not the Turbo itself, Wastegate, or BOV...
So Yes Im getting name brand stuff for those listed above...
But please help me complete my setup... tell me the wrongs and tell me what are more reliable and so on...
Thanks for looking at my setup and I hope you can give me a better understanding!
My cousin had a MKIV Supra so he helped make a list for me...
He said I should go for 600hp...
But Im like... i just want a reliable 400-500hp Daily Driver...
So if you guys could help me... That would be great!
I would promise to post pictures of how the car looks like if you were to help me out!
Its just a list to get it up and running... as minimal as possible...
Im very new to this boosting/turbo stuff...
So please be patient with me...
This is what I have so far...
Keep in mind that this setup posted was for the 600hp setup...
*NA-T Turbo Setup*
Turbo - Precision Turbo 6766 Billet Wheel - $1,079.00
Exhaust Manifold – Stainless Turbo Exhaust Manifold
- $154.70
Down Pipe - Toyota Supra 2JZGE MKIV 4 inch Single Turbo Downpipe Midpipe with clamps - $285.02
Wastegate -
TiAL MVR 44mm Wastegate with V-band Flanges - $345.00
BOV - SILVER Tial 50mm Q Blow Off Valve BOV QBOV WITH FLANGE - $259.99
Fuel Pump - Toyota Supra MKIV 2JZGTE Turbo 2jz-gte Denso 850cc injectors & Fuel Rail- $610.00
Intercooler - Precision Turbo 750hp Front Mount Intercooler FMIC - $480.00
Turbo Fittings (Oil) - Universal Complete Oil Line Kit 4AN 10AN T Fitting T3 Turbo Flange Gasket T3/T4 - $93.97
Standalone - AEM Series 2 EMS Standalone ECU Supra 2JZGE 2JZ-GE - $1,595.99
And He also said some parts can be Ebay Parts...
But Not the Turbo itself, Wastegate, or BOV...
So Yes Im getting name brand stuff for those listed above...
But please help me complete my setup... tell me the wrongs and tell me what are more reliable and so on...
Thanks for looking at my setup and I hope you can give me a better understanding!
08-02-12, 08:26 PM
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You're gonna need some ARP Headstuds and a TT head gasket to run more than 8lbs , also you didn't state anything about a transmission upgrade , you got to add that to you're list as well.
08-02-12, 09:58 PM
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I am looking to swap in a R154...
Im Auto at the moment...
But do you think I would have to upgrade the R154 also?
08-02-12, 10:48 PM
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It would hold but it also depends on the condition you get the r154 and how much abuse it's gonna get will also determine the transmission's lifespan.
08-03-12, 05:56 AM
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Hmm...
I'd say an estimate of me abusing it could vary from once every two weeks to a full two months...
Is that too much?
And Yes I just hope I get a good overall condition R154...
I'd say an estimate of me abusing it could vary from once every two weeks to a full two months...
Is that too much?
And Yes I just hope I get a good overall condition R154...
08-03-12, 06:43 PM
#6
first off, for 500 hp, that turbo is too much... look at the PTE 6262... that is a perfect sized turbo for 500-600...
also, the 4" downpipe, big time overkill... I also don't think it will fit an IS without modification... the ECU will work just fine, but it is not going to be just plug and play as he is probably used to... look on here for a thread about my AEM EMS install into my IS, or, if you do want a plug and play kit, look at Dezods stuff...
Going to have to build the motor - your stock block, crank and head is fine, just get some GTE pistons/rods and you'll be good to go...
Why not stay auto and just have yours built? they can be built cheaper than a R154 can be found...
that oil line kit won't work - you will want stainless line as the return line is very close to the exhaust manifold
I'm sure there is more, will look it over a bit more...
also, the 4" downpipe, big time overkill... I also don't think it will fit an IS without modification... the ECU will work just fine, but it is not going to be just plug and play as he is probably used to... look on here for a thread about my AEM EMS install into my IS, or, if you do want a plug and play kit, look at Dezods stuff...
Going to have to build the motor - your stock block, crank and head is fine, just get some GTE pistons/rods and you'll be good to go...
Why not stay auto and just have yours built? they can be built cheaper than a R154 can be found...
that oil line kit won't work - you will want stainless line as the return line is very close to the exhaust manifold
I'm sure there is more, will look it over a bit more...
08-06-12, 01:21 AM
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first off, for 500 hp, that turbo is too much... look at the PTE 6262... that is a perfect sized turbo for 500-600...
also, the 4" downpipe, big time overkill... I also don't think it will fit an IS without modification... the ECU will work just fine, but it is not going to be just plug and play as he is probably used to... look on here for a thread about my AEM EMS install into my IS, or, if you do want a plug and play kit, look at Dezods stuff...
Going to have to build the motor - your stock block, crank and head is fine, just get some GTE pistons/rods and you'll be good to go...
Why not stay auto and just have yours built? they can be built cheaper than a R154 can be found...
that oil line kit won't work - you will want stainless line as the return line is very close to the exhaust manifold
I'm sure there is more, will look it over a bit more...
also, the 4" downpipe, big time overkill... I also don't think it will fit an IS without modification... the ECU will work just fine, but it is not going to be just plug and play as he is probably used to... look on here for a thread about my AEM EMS install into my IS, or, if you do want a plug and play kit, look at Dezods stuff...
Going to have to build the motor - your stock block, crank and head is fine, just get some GTE pistons/rods and you'll be good to go...
Why not stay auto and just have yours built? they can be built cheaper than a R154 can be found...
that oil line kit won't work - you will want stainless line as the return line is very close to the exhaust manifold
I'm sure there is more, will look it over a bit more...
I appreciate it!
Well for the Transmission...
I want the 5 speed feel back...
I guess Im just tired of that Automatic...
But is it really built cheaper than a R154?
If so where are some places I can build the stock Auto at?
I do plan on getting the GTE Pistons/Rods. Heard alot about those... Basically a MUST HAVE...
Hmmm... Or should I just go with the SRT Turbo Kit?
Which would be cheaper?
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08-06-12, 07:22 PM
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08-08-12, 06:37 PM
#10
most importantly, someone that knows what they are doing to perform all the work...
09-08-12, 06:05 PM
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? about tranny stuff....... doing the GTE swap on my IS this winter and stuck about the tranny..... some say send the valve body to SRT, some say the Toyomoto ebay $60 valve body upgrade is fine......
what is best and what is done to the vb at SRT??? what needs to be built???
Mitsuguy..... can you and I email eachother??? I need some help and guidance with my swap.....
what is best and what is done to the vb at SRT??? what needs to be built???
Mitsuguy..... can you and I email eachother??? I need some help and guidance with my swap.....
09-18-12, 05:30 AM
#12
as one who recently built a na-t is300 for a customer , ill say this
gte pistons is not the best and safest route to go . gte piston coupled with a is300 ge head destroys the squish band and actually will make your setup more detonation prone and the compression cr it gives makes for you to have to run higher boost to make that power . use gte/ge rods (as they are the same) and use non vvti ge pistons ( as they have more solid ring lands which is the problem part of vvti pistons) and gte headgasket although that does not offer the best squish band but accetable and will give you around 9:4:1 ish cr .. or better yet use the gte piston but use a non vvti ge metal headgasket which will bring your squish band back to accetable and useable range .
maintaining proper squish and higher cr will yield better off boost response and you will make same power at much lower boost . im around 9:4:1 ish cr and my setup did 600 on 93 oct @19 psi running low low timing in full boost .just make sure to use arp studs and trq no less then 90 ft lbs and no more then 95 or youll risk galling the alum in the head
heres a link to the car built and now coming back to me next month to pull apart bottomend for non vvti ge pistons and rods and micro polishing crank journals , new acl bearings mains and rods , arp rod bolts and mains bolts and new cyl honing .. head will get disassembled and valves lapped , seats re cut and bc springs and retainers and vvti bc 264 's installed correctly .
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/flo...er-bullet.html
he will make a easy 550 on pump gas with a r154 sitting in my garage already for him, and he will also have srt ffim to eliminate that over the top manifold and get rid of drive by wire TB
btw use the dezod motorsports modified aem box for honda if you want full control of vvti as the above car has it with patch harness as you must have stock ecu in place to control multiplex computers which control dash , ac ,windows and sunroof and also controls your drive by wire tb
gl with your project
gte pistons is not the best and safest route to go . gte piston coupled with a is300 ge head destroys the squish band and actually will make your setup more detonation prone and the compression cr it gives makes for you to have to run higher boost to make that power . use gte/ge rods (as they are the same) and use non vvti ge pistons ( as they have more solid ring lands which is the problem part of vvti pistons) and gte headgasket although that does not offer the best squish band but accetable and will give you around 9:4:1 ish cr .. or better yet use the gte piston but use a non vvti ge metal headgasket which will bring your squish band back to accetable and useable range .
maintaining proper squish and higher cr will yield better off boost response and you will make same power at much lower boost . im around 9:4:1 ish cr and my setup did 600 on 93 oct @19 psi running low low timing in full boost .just make sure to use arp studs and trq no less then 90 ft lbs and no more then 95 or youll risk galling the alum in the head
heres a link to the car built and now coming back to me next month to pull apart bottomend for non vvti ge pistons and rods and micro polishing crank journals , new acl bearings mains and rods , arp rod bolts and mains bolts and new cyl honing .. head will get disassembled and valves lapped , seats re cut and bc springs and retainers and vvti bc 264 's installed correctly .
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/flo...er-bullet.html
he will make a easy 550 on pump gas with a r154 sitting in my garage already for him, and he will also have srt ffim to eliminate that over the top manifold and get rid of drive by wire TB
btw use the dezod motorsports modified aem box for honda if you want full control of vvti as the above car has it with patch harness as you must have stock ecu in place to control multiplex computers which control dash , ac ,windows and sunroof and also controls your drive by wire tb
gl with your project
09-18-12, 06:01 AM
#13
You don't have to use the dezod box, in fact, as a tuner, if you do, that surprises me, as easy as it is to spend much less money on a Honda box which is what they use anyways and wire it yourself. It is simple, and I have a DIY both here and my.is.
As far as squish is concerned, people have said that, but the reality is that in the real world, it just doesn't matter nearly as much as the theorists say... if it did, there wouldn't be near as many GE-T motors making 500-600... also, you do know there is a slight difference in the VVTI vs non VVTI head, and all of those supposed issues were theorized with the nonVVTI head...
As far as off boost power, even with low CR, it is not an issue, and the whole more power from less boost, well, that can be argued a little too... the reason said car is on ridiculously low timing numbers is that higher timing numbers will most likely result in knock... Same reason why running 20-25 psi on pump gas is easy on a 8.5:1 motor, but 10 psi is pushing it on a 12:1 motor... at least without pulling all kinds of timing... a buddy has a EVO on E85, higher CR pistons, 10:1 I believe and he runs a whopping 1 degree of timing at MBT because any more and it actually makes less power...
As far as squish is concerned, people have said that, but the reality is that in the real world, it just doesn't matter nearly as much as the theorists say... if it did, there wouldn't be near as many GE-T motors making 500-600... also, you do know there is a slight difference in the VVTI vs non VVTI head, and all of those supposed issues were theorized with the nonVVTI head...
As far as off boost power, even with low CR, it is not an issue, and the whole more power from less boost, well, that can be argued a little too... the reason said car is on ridiculously low timing numbers is that higher timing numbers will most likely result in knock... Same reason why running 20-25 psi on pump gas is easy on a 8.5:1 motor, but 10 psi is pushing it on a 12:1 motor... at least without pulling all kinds of timing... a buddy has a EVO on E85, higher CR pistons, 10:1 I believe and he runs a whopping 1 degree of timing at MBT because any more and it actually makes less power...
09-18-12, 07:31 AM
#14
then riddle me.this Batman. why have I gone thru 2 boostlogic 2.5 HG in 1.5 yrs. both tuned by same aem tuner. it made me run higher boost always putting me to limits of pump gas tuning and boost pressures. the last one went at 561 HP at 23-24 psi. on same 93 Oct. current. tt 1.3 (compressed size) HG made me 600 @19 psi. and been running flawless since Oct 2010. less boost =less heat less wear and tear and yes less timing. everything to me.points to a win especially when going e85 which loves higher CR and more timing.
as far as which aem comes down to.personal preference. I take the route of why try to reinvent the wheel concept. dezods box and patch harness works, nuff said
and as far as squish band and quench, it has more to do with efficiency of ones setup over just raw horsepower. I built a 800 +HP sc300 (see intro of red dragon in florida section) and when he drove in my car after driving his, mine scared the crap out of him.and I make 115 less rwhp then he does, go figure. I too didn't initially put much credence in the squish and quench theory until I saw it first hand and did some intense reading on the subject, then adopted the the thought process well its time to move into the 21 century. LOL
as far as which aem comes down to.personal preference. I take the route of why try to reinvent the wheel concept. dezods box and patch harness works, nuff said
and as far as squish band and quench, it has more to do with efficiency of ones setup over just raw horsepower. I built a 800 +HP sc300 (see intro of red dragon in florida section) and when he drove in my car after driving his, mine scared the crap out of him.and I make 115 less rwhp then he does, go figure. I too didn't initially put much credence in the squish and quench theory until I saw it first hand and did some intense reading on the subject, then adopted the the thought process well its time to move into the 21 century. LOL
09-18-12, 11:49 AM
#15
then riddle me.this Batman. why have I gone thru 2 boostlogic 2.5 HG in 1.5 yrs. both tuned by same aem tuner. it made me run higher boost always putting me to limits of pump gas tuning and boost pressures. the last one went at 561 HP at 23-24 psi. on same 93 Oct. current. tt 1.3 (compressed size) HG made me 600 @19 psi. and been running flawless since Oct 2010. less boost =less heat less wear and tear and yes less timing. everything to me.points to a win especially when going e85 which loves higher CR and more timing.
as far as which aem comes down to.personal preference. I take the route of why try to reinvent the wheel concept. dezods box and patch harness works, nuff said
and as far as squish band and quench, it has more to do with efficiency of ones setup over just raw horsepower. I built a 800 +HP sc300 (see intro of red dragon in florida section) and when he drove in my car after driving his, mine scared the crap out of him.and I make 115 less rwhp then he does, go figure. I too didn't initially put much credence in the squish and quench theory until I saw it first hand and did some intense reading on the subject, then adopted the the thought process well its time to move into the 21 century. LOL
as far as which aem comes down to.personal preference. I take the route of why try to reinvent the wheel concept. dezods box and patch harness works, nuff said
and as far as squish band and quench, it has more to do with efficiency of ones setup over just raw horsepower. I built a 800 +HP sc300 (see intro of red dragon in florida section) and when he drove in my car after driving his, mine scared the crap out of him.and I make 115 less rwhp then he does, go figure. I too didn't initially put much credence in the squish and quench theory until I saw it first hand and did some intense reading on the subject, then adopted the the thought process well its time to move into the 21 century. LOL
less boost = less heat from the turbo, but it doesn't mean less heat inside the engine - there you have heat from compression, you get one or the other...
sure their box works, but there is absolutely nothing special about it... guess its nice when you have so much money to just pay for everything... I'll save the $600 and do it myself...