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Also my motor is stock headgasket stock compression too...
They're coming... just picked up my motor from the machine shop - everything looks beautiful... waiting on main and rod bearings, will get her put back together this week, maybe sunday-ish get her dropped back in there...
yah, I'm not saying that is why, I'm just saying it didn't help...
Last parts I'm waiting for are the rod and main bearings, doing the Clevite tri-metal's... they should be here in the next couple days, then reassembling everything at that time... head is ready to go, cleaned and valve lash checked, engine is cleaned and ready to go, ring gaps are checked and installed on the pistons...
butterfly valve in the intake is removed and plugged, fuel rail is modified and external regulator ready to be installed, everything else is essentially ready, just waiting on the bearings to move forward...
Damn that motor looks nice and clean now .... So you just dropped in stock used GTE pistons and rods right? That would now be netting a very low compression ratio... probably 8.0 or less with the GE head. I saw your parts listing in that other turbo thread where you showed the price breakdown. I was wondering did you not go with any aftermarket rod bolts? I didn't see them listed...
Damn that motor looks nice and clean now .... So you just dropped in stock used GTE pistons and rods right? That would now be netting a very low compression ratio... probably 8.0 or less with the GE head. I saw your parts listing in that other turbo thread where you showed the price breakdown. I was wondering did you not go with any aftermarket rod bolts? I didn't see them listed...
Didn't see the need for aftermarket rod or mains.... everything I pulled apart was within new spec, so why replace? Everyone I've read has mentioned 8.3:1 for this setup, but it wouldn't surprise me if it could be lower... both the head and deck have been fly cut, so that will change things a little anyways...
Didn't see the need for aftermarket rod or mains.... everything I pulled apart was within new spec, so why replace? Everyone I've read has mentioned 8.3:1 for this setup, but it wouldn't surprise me if it could be lower... both the head and deck have been fly cut, so that will change things a little anyways...
I agree the GTE stock stuff is quite good for making a moderate amount of power. I was just about the rod bolts? What did you use cause you mentioned ARP head studs, so it would seem logical when putting the rods in to use ARP rod bolts too..
I agree the GTE stock stuff is quite good for making a moderate amount of power. I was just about the rod bolts? What did you use cause you mentioned ARP head studs, so it would seem logicwhen putting the rods in to use ARP rod bolts too..
I used ARP head bolts mainly because they weren't terribly expensive in comparison to buying new head bolts, which I didn't have a full set of in good shape... Per the Toyota Supra TSRM, I measured and inspected all main and rod bolts making sure none were too thin and between my two motors and my brothers spare set of rods, I was able to assemble a full set of like new spec rod and main bolts, for free... Same as the stock pistons and rods, the OEM stuff is good for way more HP than I intend on making...
So, on 4 psi, according to the torque app on my phone, she is making about 40 whp more than she was stock... time to turn up the boost... boost controller should be here tomorrow most likely.. will start out around 10 psi and work my way up... she's also on E85 100% of the time now too...
Torque / HP apps are cool, but are you going to get some true dyno numbers as well ?
Of course... still working on breaking in the engine, just got it relatively tuned on e85... new fuel pump to install, and going to upgrade turbos already.... thinking 5252 or 6262... realistically, the 5252 will make enough to kill the stock trans, don't know if I wanna go 6262 yet....