Hey piggybackers

Reason why i ask. Word is our VVTI ECU relearns itself on and overrides the piggys. Havent really ran into a problem and i dont have a wideband to see if my "tune" has changed or anything so yea...
Thoughts?
I've seen the ecu reset seems to be pretty popular with the IS guys. I've seen a few guys running mapecu or greddy emanage that just disconnect all the stock o2 sensors and let the ecu run in fixed map mode so it stops changing from open/closed loop.
Last edited by 99 GS3; Jan 20, 2012 at 03:43 PM.
Now days, with more advanced piggyback units such as the AEM FIC, you can run boost in conjunction with the stock OBD2 systems. It takes a bit more knowledge, understanding of the system, and a good bit of patience! Targeting and estimating where the long term fuel trims will settle at and not overshooting takes a bit of experimenting and experience. Many inexperienced people that tune the FIC always try to tune on the short term fuel trims and that's where it screws them over.
On the cars I build, everything runs and drives as a stock car should. If the customer wants to buy all the proper sensor simulation add-ons, the car can run and drive around town with no CEL(check engine light) at all. This is not just a 5-10 minute solution where you just reset the code and it pops back a few miles down the road. Nor is it one where the CEL bulb is taken out of the cluster lol. On a properly built and tuned car with a piggyback, you can drive around pretty much indefinetly without ever setting off a CEL. Traction control works, and best of all the car will pass the plug-in OBD2 vehicle emissions testing.
Last edited by JeffTsai; Jan 28, 2012 at 11:46 PM.
I've done both standalones and piggybacks now, and the piggyback is the more difficult of the two to get it right. On a standalone, whatever you push is what the computer will output to the engine directly and instantly. The piggyback, you have to know how the stock ecu works in terms of long term fuel correction and also the drive cycles till the correction factor is applied. The nice thing about tuning with the piggyback is that once everything is dialed in perfectly, the stock ecu is highly adaptive and you pretty much never have to touch the tune again. That is until you decide to do some further mods lol.
Feel free to ask any questions.
A standalone is more expensive, but a better route in the end. Unless your power goals are low, Then in that case you wouldn't have to spend to much money on a more exotic system.
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A standalone is more expensive, but a better route in the end. Unless your power goals are low, Then in that case you wouldn't have to spend to much money on a more exotic system.
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I've done both standalones and piggybacks now, and the piggyback is the more difficult of the two to get it right. On a standalone, whatever you push is what the computer will output to the engine directly and instantly. The piggyback, you have to know how the stock ecu works in terms of long term fuel correction and also the drive cycles till the correction factor is applied. The nice thing about tuning with the piggyback is that once everything is dialed in perfectly, the stock ecu is highly adaptive and you pretty much never have to touch the tune again. That is until you decide to do some further mods lol.
Feel free to ask any questions.
Erik
Erik
The main upside of advanced piggybacks such as the AEM FIC and Greddy eManage Ultimate is that you are able to keep pretty much stock drivability, reliability, gas mileage(as long as you don't gun it all the time). The biggest upside for me is that I can pass OBD-II plug in emissions testing!
The downside is that the system has to be tuned to perfection. As I said earlier, the stock ECU is highly adaptive and has many many error detections and failsafes built in. If you do not account for every single one of these, then you will run into issues of limp mode and the car changing tunes on you. However, if you master the tune for it, it's pretty much the most awesome thing you can have on your car since it will never have to be tuned ever again.
Standalone is great because you don't have to work with the stock ecu and make it happy. Whatever you input in the tables on the standalone is precisely what it's going to output to the engine. However, there are a TON of variables to tune in a standalone as well. It's not all smooth sailing since most standalones have a pretty steep learning curve to them if you're a beginner.
Here's what it comes down to in my opinion. For a mid level HP street car, you can get away with around 500-700hp depending on your tuning skill level on a piggyback. This will run very very similar to an OEM tune if you can get everything nailed down. This is my absolute recommendation if it's going to be a daily driven street car. If the car is going to be a seldom weekend cruiser/racer then you can look to getting a standalone to make more power than a piggyback can handle. It does not matter how good you can tune a standalone, you will be close but you never be able to match the OEM level of refinement, smoothness, reliability, sensor feedback, etc.
Don't get the MAP ECU 1 because It's more or less a fancy SAFC(also no good for these cars). It's junk for these cars with highly adaptive OBD-II systems. Use at least a AEM FIC, eManage Ultimate, or MAPECU2. These 3 piggyback systems have post ECU injector direct drivers(one of the most important advancements in "kinda" recent piggyback history that allows you to get a good stable tune on OBD-II cars).
Last edited by JeffTsai; Feb 6, 2012 at 11:01 PM.
BTW this application would be for the v8 (gs430)...so that would using the FIC 8. Have you installed or tuned one on the v8 models?
Erik


