I'm waiting for results to let me know if i want those plugs over the denso iridium's

 

Gang - My current plans R to set up some dyno time next Tuesday ( 6-25 ). That's the earliest that both my job & dyno availability allows. I'll post the results as soon as I have them or any changes to the timetable. Remain patient!

 

</homer> woo hoo!

 

Tick Tock.... Tick Tock.......

 

I work for a Lexus dealership in Dallas and I am able to get the O.E. plug for you for $10.82 each plus UPS ground shipping ($5)

 

Thanks Martin, I'm sure some of the folks might take you up on some other parts sometime. This one is about getting plugs that work (hopefully, we'll see) better than OEM.

BTW - I have the info from Steve today and am awaiting approval from Ethan on posting a group buy. Look for a link later this evening or tomorrow. Steve didn't give me any time limit on the GB yet, but for those folks that want to wait until after Gene's dyno I believe that will be fine. I think he's just going to start carrying them.

More info to follow.

 

Dave,

Thanks for the info. Be sure to use "sticky" on the GB.

 

Anxious to hear what S Gantz can do and how Mean Gean's dyno runs turn out with these plugs. I am due for a change of plugs and want the most bang for the buck. Keep us posted!

 

Sorry for the delay in posting the GB. I'm out of town and don't have much time on the PC (plus the 24K dial up stinks here).

I'll post again with a link to a sticky in the new group buy classifieds section when it goes up. So you can decide if you want to participate, here are the basic details:

He'll order for any car the Torquemaster folks make plugs for. Cars other than Lexus are OK as well.

Steve Ganz is offering discount prices for the plugs for us as follow (approx 15% off or $16 savings for a V8):

* Standard Torquemaster plug-list-$12.50, CL GB price $10.50 ea
* New Star Series plugs list $14.50, CL GB price $12.50 ea
* All 10mm,12mm and 18mm plugs (if needed) list $14.50, CL GB price $12.50 ea

More info on how to place the orders will be on the group buy message. I'll have it posted by the weekend or early next week (sorry for the delay, lots of travel this weekend).

 

alright, more solid progress. thanks a lot!!

 

Cool.... Now lets see what Gene's Dyno says......

 

Guys,

Stay far away from the STANDARD plugs. The only thing that will work out nicely is the STAR series plugs at 12.50 each. Base cost on these are 10.50 each, which is the wholesale cost for the distributor, NOT the cost for the "end user". This isn't a very high markup and it's still a heck of a deal.

Percy

 

Does anyone know what the power out put of the plugs are???

Did MG dyno the plugs yet??? and which one does he have "standard or star series"???


Aloha

 

Guyz - Well, I'm gonna do this dyno testing tomorrow ( 6-25 ) but it won't be with MY GS4!! It seems that my "loving wife" FORGOT to tell me that she had a week long business seminar/meeting/hookup with new boyfriend in Knoxville this week & she took the car!! Man, I hope the CAR comes back!! Not to fear, though. Being the McGyver fan that I am ( & former Boy Scout ), I AM PREPARED! I have a friend with whom I just helped do his 60k routine maintenance on ( including new Iridium plugs ) his '99 bone stock GS400 with similar mileage as mine; well, obviously it's my WIFE'S!! It's gonna cost me a Zaino job on it but he's consented to let me take it to Baton Rouge to the dyno. For starters, I've run a few 0-60 passes using the G-Tech Pro & have a 2 way average of 5.62. This is with stock 17" wheels & my driving style of brake torqueing to almost 2k ( there definitely AIN'T no Dragon T/C in there!! ). FYI - 82 degree weather, 1/2 tank of gas & my 200# butt only in there. It seems a little stronger than my GS was when mine was stock ( even with the mileage ) as I ran consistant 5.8's on 16" wheels but I can smoke him now with my GS easily. 'Course, ya'll know mine ain't stock!
Still having problems with my scanner so if I can't get Tom ( my dyno buddy ) to load the printout on a floppy I may need someone to post the sheets for me. If I have probs, someone with a fax machine & working scanner can PM me AFTER I post the results tomorrow & put the sheets up for me. I know we have our skeptics who absolutely want to see dyno sheets but regardless of the results just remember that I get NOTHING out of this except the satisfaction of sharing information. Like Ethan, Percy, Superjoex, Retro & MANY others who try things ( & spend $$ doing so ) then share the results with ya'll to help U make better decisions for yourselves, well, that's part of the automotive brotherhood. In fact, I bought my TM's before Dave managed to bring Steve Ganz into the mix for a group buy so I paid full price in addition to the $100 I'll shell out for 1-2 hours of dyno time. That said, I'm NOT looking for donations or anything. Just wanted some of the newer Members to know that your Moderators are working for YOU!!

 

Page #2 - Now if you're still with me, I'll pass on some quick info about the TM's. At Suzi's advice I went with the new "star" TM plugs. Like I said in one of my earlier posts - these R so new that they're not on the TM website but R designed for cars with distributor-less ignitions like our GS's with individual coil packs. They arrived within a week in perfect condition & with several pages of instructions regarding torque specs & installation ideas. However, I'd like to see them packaged a little better. They came in a padded envelope ( not a box! ) & with the electrodes covered with a cardboard sleeve. I scanned the instructions & nothing was earthshattering IF U've dealt with HEI before. The use of di-electric grease on the boots ( to help seal moisture out ) is always good & the use of a anti-seize on the threads will help if U ever remove the TM's ( although Suzi told me that they should outlast the car itself!:eek: ). To add my own .02 to that, I'd suggest NOT using a lubricant with copper in it ( like Perma-Tex's Copper Shield ). While it works great in high temp situations, there's always the chance that the copper will create some electrical interference ( because of copper's conductivity ) if U get it too far down the threads. Also, TM mentioned removing the negative battery terminal to "dump" the ECU memory ( & for safety when working with any electronics ). That's the same thing that most of us have been doing to reset the adaptive memory anyway ( I still remove the ECU "B" fuse for 20-30 minutes ). After that, it's a pretty straightforward install. Gonna go remove the V-bank cover off his GS & get headed to BR. Look for at least a writeup here tomorrow ( hopefully with dyno sheets online )! Same BAT-TYME; same BAT-CHANNEL!!!! Lord, I'm gettin' old!!!!!