Hey All,

Had the same problem with my 99 GS300 and same code thrown. Took it to a mechanic and gave Peter's instruction and they did the re-solder fix. Didn't test it on a freeway as yet and wanted to check whether the fix is permanent or should I look at changing the APPS before I can rely on the car for long trips with family etc.

Now, I'm really not sure if I can take it for a long trip (3+ hours drive) before I can test it thoroughly but any inputs on those who did the solder fix would be much appreciated. After the re-solder fix, did the problem pop-up again?

Thanks much for your time & help!

 

If mechanic fallow-up exactly me procedure, it is Permanent.
Very critical step is perfectly scrape contacts from on the potentiometer to bare metal.
If any oxidation remain, cold connection will return !!!

 

For the record this writing is in response to GSGregB's post that appears on page 5 who wrote up detailed instructions on fixing the Accelerated Pedal Positioning Sensor. Hopefully, this will help others with a 1120 or 1121 code. GSGregB I was wondering if you can remove the APPS without unbolting the cable that gave you a lot of problems. It seems you can I just wanted to confirm. I found a video on youtube of someone that appears to be fixing the APPS, the only problem is he is speaking in a Russian dialect. Still, the visual is there for the purpose of gaining some familiarity of what has been described in this thread once the APPS has been opened. Here is the link:

 

Greetings my friend,

I'm in the process of removing the APPS and ended up having to take off the piece that contains the spring have you ever done this if so I'm in dire need of your assistance. Thanks in advance.

 

Perhaps an old thread but a big thumbs up to the contributor's. Have just purchased a very low mileage, 1999 Lexus GS 300 (100 000km - in South Africa). Was having issues as described with throttle that would frequently lose response (eg foot down but no revs at all), which only happened at high temperature (when the vehicle was fully warmed up. Couldn't pull codes but tried this DIY solder repair to the APPS (and also did the same with the TPS to be sure). So far so good - no more check engine lights and throttle problems. Also cleaned the throttle body, MAF and repaired a hole by the air intake (after MAF) so perhaps any of these could have been a compounding issue. Would strongly urge any members with the same problems to try these cheap fixes first..thanks all again, Richard (newbie)