Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor?
Lexus Champion
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,714
Likes: 22
From: VA
My daughter's 2002 GS300 has had the infamous limp for about 2 months now and no code was ever thrown. All I had was her description of the problem. Going fast and the car just slows down considerably. Anyway, I just finished replacing the APPS. Thought it would take 20 minutes and ended up taking an hour because of the 2 lower 8mm bolts holding the APPS. Ended up taking the center screw out that holds the cable pulley and bingo, w=easy removal. Putting them back in on the new one were a pain though. Hope this solves the problem. Still no idea why a code was never thrown.
7th Gear
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 7
Likes: 3
From: CA
How to FIX - APPS (Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor) DTC P1120
Code P1120 is code for malfunction of APPS (Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor).
This pedal position sensor have a dual output inverse of each other, a redundancy for safety reasons.
Cost of sensor on line ($270, at Lexus $400)
I replace several of them and after taking it a part I found common problem on them, what is easy fixable.
Malfunction of that sensor is caused by improper cleaning of organic solder residue during manufacturing of sensor.
This organic solder is very aggressive and after years of exposing this solder to environment, acid in that solder destroy it and create cold connection.
manufactured forget basic rule about cleaning contacts after solder and protect it against moisture by covering soldered area with some kind of protective layer what is very common in automotive industry (shame on Toyota).
Fix is very easy and can be done in less than hour include dismount and mount of sensor.
To do so, just make small opening in white plastic cover at location where is connector to access soldering points.
Re-solder all 4 connections and created opening cover with silicone to prevent moisture to get in. Be careful do not overfill opening with silicone.
If anybody here will help me how to upload picture of it, I will do it.
Also you can send me e-mail and I can send pics.
This pedal position sensor have a dual output inverse of each other, a redundancy for safety reasons.
Cost of sensor on line ($270, at Lexus $400)
I replace several of them and after taking it a part I found common problem on them, what is easy fixable.
Malfunction of that sensor is caused by improper cleaning of organic solder residue during manufacturing of sensor.
This organic solder is very aggressive and after years of exposing this solder to environment, acid in that solder destroy it and create cold connection.
manufactured forget basic rule about cleaning contacts after solder and protect it against moisture by covering soldered area with some kind of protective layer what is very common in automotive industry (shame on Toyota).
Fix is very easy and can be done in less than hour include dismount and mount of sensor.
To do so, just make small opening in white plastic cover at location where is connector to access soldering points.
Re-solder all 4 connections and created opening cover with silicone to prevent moisture to get in. Be careful do not overfill opening with silicone.
If anybody here will help me how to upload picture of it, I will do it.
Also you can send me e-mail and I can send pics.
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 6
Likes: 1
From: DC
I want to thank all who have contributed to this discussion on all threads. I'll post for the first time here since my issue with my '01 gs300 was solved by replacing the APPS or LEVER ASSY, THROTTLE W/SENSOR as it's called by Toyota.
Part # 2206046070 $265 at Sewell Lexus w/ ClubLexus discount.
http://lexus.sewellparts.com/oem-cat...S300-2001.html
I had this problem for over 3 months, car goes into limp mode intermittently with dash displaying check engine and vsc, vsc off lights. When turned off and back on problem would cease temporarily (with lights still on) then reappear. Resetting ecu by disconnecting the battery would temporarily fix the issue. But sure as can be after driving a little while or and (this is a guess) the engine got hot the check engine & asc lights would return. Got it checked at Autozone car was throwing codes p1120 and p1121.
I first went to a Lexus dealer, then a Toyota dealer they would only discuss replacing entire throttle body at a min. of $1600. Then had it checked at a local shop that checked the tps and determined this wasn't the issue. Purchased above part and had it installed for $100 and no more problems. I waited exactly a month before posting this to be sure this was solved. Not only am I free of this problem I seem to have better responsiveness, more power and am getting better fuel economy.
btw: in the process of this I did change the air filter and clean the maf. I also had the throttle body and intake manifold cleaned as well before the APPS was replaced.
Part # 2206046070 $265 at Sewell Lexus w/ ClubLexus discount.
http://lexus.sewellparts.com/oem-cat...S300-2001.html
I had this problem for over 3 months, car goes into limp mode intermittently with dash displaying check engine and vsc, vsc off lights. When turned off and back on problem would cease temporarily (with lights still on) then reappear. Resetting ecu by disconnecting the battery would temporarily fix the issue. But sure as can be after driving a little while or and (this is a guess) the engine got hot the check engine & asc lights would return. Got it checked at Autozone car was throwing codes p1120 and p1121.
I first went to a Lexus dealer, then a Toyota dealer they would only discuss replacing entire throttle body at a min. of $1600. Then had it checked at a local shop that checked the tps and determined this wasn't the issue. Purchased above part and had it installed for $100 and no more problems. I waited exactly a month before posting this to be sure this was solved. Not only am I free of this problem I seem to have better responsiveness, more power and am getting better fuel economy.
btw: in the process of this I did change the air filter and clean the maf. I also had the throttle body and intake manifold cleaned as well before the APPS was replaced.
Last edited by dcxray; Aug 18, 2013 at 02:17 PM.
Instructor
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 807
Likes: 360
From: CA
Code P1120 is code for malfunction of APPS (Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor).
This pedal position sensor have a dual output inverse of each other, a redundancy for safety reasons.
Cost of sensor on line ($270, at Lexus $400)
I replace several of them and after taking it a part I found common problem on them, what is easy fixable.
Malfunction of that sensor is caused by improper cleaning of organic solder residue during manufacturing of sensor.
This organic solder is very aggressive and after years of exposing this solder to environment, acid in that solder destroy it and create cold connection.
manufactured forget basic rule about cleaning contacts after solder and protect it against moisture by covering soldered area with some kind of protective layer what is very common in automotive industry (shame on Toyota).
Fix is very easy and can be done in less than hour include dismount and mount of sensor.
To do so, just make small opening in white plastic cover at location where is connector to access soldering points.
Re-solder all 4 connections and created opening cover with silicone to prevent moisture to get in. Be careful do not overfill opening with silicone.
If anybody here will help me how to upload picture of it, I will do it.
Also you can send me e-mail and I can send pics.
This pedal position sensor have a dual output inverse of each other, a redundancy for safety reasons.
Cost of sensor on line ($270, at Lexus $400)
I replace several of them and after taking it a part I found common problem on them, what is easy fixable.
Malfunction of that sensor is caused by improper cleaning of organic solder residue during manufacturing of sensor.
This organic solder is very aggressive and after years of exposing this solder to environment, acid in that solder destroy it and create cold connection.
manufactured forget basic rule about cleaning contacts after solder and protect it against moisture by covering soldered area with some kind of protective layer what is very common in automotive industry (shame on Toyota).
Fix is very easy and can be done in less than hour include dismount and mount of sensor.
To do so, just make small opening in white plastic cover at location where is connector to access soldering points.
Re-solder all 4 connections and created opening cover with silicone to prevent moisture to get in. Be careful do not overfill opening with silicone.
If anybody here will help me how to upload picture of it, I will do it.
Also you can send me e-mail and I can send pics.
Send me pictures to thgng@yahoo.com. Thanks!
7th Gear
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 7
Likes: 3
From: CA
Pedal Position Sensor
Couple days ago I posted how to fix this sensor.
Problem is inside sensor what is nothing, just 2 potentiometers in inversion to each other.
Due to very poor protection (no protection at all) inside potentiometer contacts are not covered by any coating to protect solder from oxidation.
Most likely, one or more of solder points are damaged by oxidation to the level where solder is not solid anymore and create cold connection.
You need remove sensor and create access to contacts. After you expose soldered contacts, re-solder all 4 contacts and you are back in business.
Cost of new sensor on line is $270 at Lexus $450 (just part).
There is no any adjustment or calibration of Pedal Position Sensor what so ever.
This repair can be done in 1 to 2 hours include removal and installation.
Try find my post (here in this forum) with procedure how and where to make opening (access) to contact and picture of repair.
If you have any question feel free to email me.
Problem is inside sensor what is nothing, just 2 potentiometers in inversion to each other.
Due to very poor protection (no protection at all) inside potentiometer contacts are not covered by any coating to protect solder from oxidation.
Most likely, one or more of solder points are damaged by oxidation to the level where solder is not solid anymore and create cold connection.
You need remove sensor and create access to contacts. After you expose soldered contacts, re-solder all 4 contacts and you are back in business.
Cost of new sensor on line is $270 at Lexus $450 (just part).
There is no any adjustment or calibration of Pedal Position Sensor what so ever.
This repair can be done in 1 to 2 hours include removal and installation.
Try find my post (here in this forum) with procedure how and where to make opening (access) to contact and picture of repair.
If you have any question feel free to email me.
Hello again all. So, I finally was able to try a few things out on my wife's car in hopes of getting the response from the pedal back. I have cleaned the MAF sensor and ran a bottle of Chevron Techron through it. We have used only Premium Chevron fuel in it. The air filter is new. Also, the vehicle has 112k on it.
I just saved up enough money to put in all new plugs over the weekend (dealer wanted $429 to do it! INSANE!). They are the NGK Iridium IX. While I was at, I cleaned the throttle body as well and had the battery unplugged so it reset the ECU.
After I had cleaned the MAF sensor a while back and ran the bottle of Techron through it, we got back the downshifting power as initially it would take for ever to gain speed, now the thing is a BULLET!
However, the issue that still exists is the "mushy pedal" syndrome that is sporadic. Sometimes coming off the line, you push the pedal, the car goes no where, you back off the pedal, press it again, it goes. When on the freeway cruising, it feels as though it chokes or as if there is a power loss. You have to take your foot off the pedal and press it back down to get it to go again.
So, after having done much searching on here, the only other things I see are the actual throttle body or the Pedal Position Sensor, the latter of which I am leaning towards. I noticed 3 people with the same year and model have been successful after changing this sensor out. Any ideas how much this sensor runs?
I also found a post about the TIS (technical information system) with the link. I plan on spending the money to check this out to see how easy things are to work on with this motor.
Do you think I should start with the PPS or should I replace the MAF sensor instead, as I only bought cleaner for it? The car has thrown no CEL lights. It's just a frustrating thing that has no rhyme or rhythm to why and when it happens.
Anyone else have any updates on this or any other specifics I should look into?
Thanks everyone!
I just saved up enough money to put in all new plugs over the weekend (dealer wanted $429 to do it! INSANE!). They are the NGK Iridium IX. While I was at, I cleaned the throttle body as well and had the battery unplugged so it reset the ECU.
After I had cleaned the MAF sensor a while back and ran the bottle of Techron through it, we got back the downshifting power as initially it would take for ever to gain speed, now the thing is a BULLET!
However, the issue that still exists is the "mushy pedal" syndrome that is sporadic. Sometimes coming off the line, you push the pedal, the car goes no where, you back off the pedal, press it again, it goes. When on the freeway cruising, it feels as though it chokes or as if there is a power loss. You have to take your foot off the pedal and press it back down to get it to go again.
So, after having done much searching on here, the only other things I see are the actual throttle body or the Pedal Position Sensor, the latter of which I am leaning towards. I noticed 3 people with the same year and model have been successful after changing this sensor out. Any ideas how much this sensor runs?
I also found a post about the TIS (technical information system) with the link. I plan on spending the money to check this out to see how easy things are to work on with this motor.
Do you think I should start with the PPS or should I replace the MAF sensor instead, as I only bought cleaner for it? The car has thrown no CEL lights. It's just a frustrating thing that has no rhyme or rhythm to why and when it happens.
Anyone else have any updates on this or any other specifics I should look into?
Thanks everyone!
Last edited by Peter2000; Aug 26, 2013 at 07:12 PM.
6th Gear
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 6
Likes: 1
From: FL
I'm just one of the many that have experienced the APPS sensor code (P1121) in my 01 IS300.
Replaced Plugs, cleaned MAF and still experiencing the issue periodically after clearing codes, resetting ECU or simply letting the car sit for some time before driving again.
I was just wondering if there was somehow I could remove the sensor and clean it with electronic contact cleaner or something before attempting to replace it.
Peter2000, I've read your post in regards to removing, and re-soldiering but I couldn't find your post where you provided pictures or explain how to do to this in further detail. (Still would like to try and clean it if possible first before attempting to re-soldier). In particular, I am lost on the portion where you explain "just make small opening in white plastic cover at location where is connector to access soldering points"...I assume that I will only see that when taking the sensor off?
Also, you expressed that I would not need to calibrate or worry about the position of the sensor when re-installing...does that mean that I can take off the sensor and not worry about putting it back on a certain way?
Thanks in advance,
Jason
Replaced Plugs, cleaned MAF and still experiencing the issue periodically after clearing codes, resetting ECU or simply letting the car sit for some time before driving again.
I was just wondering if there was somehow I could remove the sensor and clean it with electronic contact cleaner or something before attempting to replace it.
Peter2000, I've read your post in regards to removing, and re-soldiering but I couldn't find your post where you provided pictures or explain how to do to this in further detail. (Still would like to try and clean it if possible first before attempting to re-soldier). In particular, I am lost on the portion where you explain "just make small opening in white plastic cover at location where is connector to access soldering points"...I assume that I will only see that when taking the sensor off?
Also, you expressed that I would not need to calibrate or worry about the position of the sensor when re-installing...does that mean that I can take off the sensor and not worry about putting it back on a certain way?
Thanks in advance,
Jason
7th Gear
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 7
Likes: 3
From: CA
Pedal Position Sensor
go there:
http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums...6/#entry465953
http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums...6/#entry465953
I'm just one of the many that have experienced the APPS sensor code (P1121) in my 01 IS300.
Replaced Plugs, cleaned MAF and still experiencing the issue periodically after clearing codes, resetting ECU or simply letting the car sit for some time before driving again.
I was just wondering if there was somehow I could remove the sensor and clean it with electronic contact cleaner or something before attempting to replace it.
Peter2000, I've read your post in regards to removing, and re-soldiering but I couldn't find your post where you provided pictures or explain how to do to this in further detail. (Still would like to try and clean it if possible first before attempting to re-soldier). In particular, I am lost on the portion where you explain "just make small opening in white plastic cover at location where is connector to access soldering points"...I assume that I will only see that when taking the sensor off?
Also, you expressed that I would not need to calibrate or worry about the position of the sensor when re-installing...does that mean that I can take off the sensor and not worry about putting it back on a certain way?
Thanks in advance,
Jason
Replaced Plugs, cleaned MAF and still experiencing the issue periodically after clearing codes, resetting ECU or simply letting the car sit for some time before driving again.
I was just wondering if there was somehow I could remove the sensor and clean it with electronic contact cleaner or something before attempting to replace it.
Peter2000, I've read your post in regards to removing, and re-soldiering but I couldn't find your post where you provided pictures or explain how to do to this in further detail. (Still would like to try and clean it if possible first before attempting to re-soldier). In particular, I am lost on the portion where you explain "just make small opening in white plastic cover at location where is connector to access soldering points"...I assume that I will only see that when taking the sensor off?
Also, you expressed that I would not need to calibrate or worry about the position of the sensor when re-installing...does that mean that I can take off the sensor and not worry about putting it back on a certain way?
Thanks in advance,
Jason
Rookie
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
From: ga
My daughter's 2002 GS300 has had the infamous limp for about 2 months now and no code was ever thrown. All I had was her description of the problem. Going fast and the car just slows down considerably. Anyway, I just finished replacing the APPS. Thought it would take 20 minutes and ended up taking an hour because of the 2 lower 8mm bolts holding the APPS. Ended up taking the center screw out that holds the cable pulley and bingo, w=easy removal. Putting them back in on the new one were a pain though. Hope this solves the problem. Still no idea why a code was never thrown.
7th Gear
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 7
Likes: 3
From: CA
Apps
Try this link:
http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums...6/#entry465953
http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums...6/#entry465953
Hello again all. So, I finally was able to try a few things out on my wife's car in hopes of getting the response from the pedal back. I have cleaned the MAF sensor and ran a bottle of Chevron Techron through it. We have used only Premium Chevron fuel in it. The air filter is new. Also, the vehicle has 112k on it.
I just saved up enough money to put in all new plugs over the weekend (dealer wanted $429 to do it! INSANE!). They are the NGK Iridium IX. While I was at, I cleaned the throttle body as well and had the battery unplugged so it reset the ECU.
After I had cleaned the MAF sensor a while back and ran the bottle of Techron through it, we got back the downshifting power as initially it would take for ever to gain speed, now the thing is a BULLET!
However, the issue that still exists is the "mushy pedal" syndrome that is sporadic. Sometimes coming off the line, you push the pedal, the car goes no where, you back off the pedal, press it again, it goes. When on the freeway cruising, it feels as though it chokes or as if there is a power loss. You have to take your foot off the pedal and press it back down to get it to go again.
So, after having done much searching on here, the only other things I see are the actual throttle body or the Pedal Position Sensor, the latter of which I am leaning towards. I noticed 3 people with the same year and model have been successful after changing this sensor out. Any ideas how much this sensor runs?
I also found a post about the TIS (technical information system) with the link. I plan on spending the money to check this out to see how easy things are to work on with this motor.
Do you think I should start with the PPS or should I replace the MAF sensor instead, as I only bought cleaner for it? The car has thrown no CEL lights. It's just a frustrating thing that has no rhyme or rhythm to why and when it happens.
Anyone else have any updates on this or any other specifics I should look into?
Thanks everyone!
I just saved up enough money to put in all new plugs over the weekend (dealer wanted $429 to do it! INSANE!). They are the NGK Iridium IX. While I was at, I cleaned the throttle body as well and had the battery unplugged so it reset the ECU.
After I had cleaned the MAF sensor a while back and ran the bottle of Techron through it, we got back the downshifting power as initially it would take for ever to gain speed, now the thing is a BULLET!
However, the issue that still exists is the "mushy pedal" syndrome that is sporadic. Sometimes coming off the line, you push the pedal, the car goes no where, you back off the pedal, press it again, it goes. When on the freeway cruising, it feels as though it chokes or as if there is a power loss. You have to take your foot off the pedal and press it back down to get it to go again.
So, after having done much searching on here, the only other things I see are the actual throttle body or the Pedal Position Sensor, the latter of which I am leaning towards. I noticed 3 people with the same year and model have been successful after changing this sensor out. Any ideas how much this sensor runs?
I also found a post about the TIS (technical information system) with the link. I plan on spending the money to check this out to see how easy things are to work on with this motor.
Do you think I should start with the PPS or should I replace the MAF sensor instead, as I only bought cleaner for it? The car has thrown no CEL lights. It's just a frustrating thing that has no rhyme or rhythm to why and when it happens.
Anyone else have any updates on this or any other specifics I should look into?
Thanks everyone!
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 1
Likes: 1
From: Florida
Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor Fix
Code P1120 is code for malfunction of APPS (Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor).
This pedal position sensor have a dual output inverse of each other, a redundancy for safety reasons.
Cost of sensor on line ($270, at Lexus $400)
I replace several of them and after taking it a part I found common problem on them, what is easy fixable.
Malfunction of that sensor is caused by improper cleaning of organic solder residue during manufacturing of sensor.
This organic solder is very aggressive and after years of exposing this solder to environment, acid in that solder destroy it and create cold connection.
manufactured forget basic rule about cleaning contacts after solder and protect it against moisture by covering soldered area with some kind of protective layer what is very common in automotive industry (shame on Toyota).
Fix is very easy and can be done in less than hour include dismount and mount of sensor.
To do so, just make small opening in white plastic cover at location where is connector to access soldering points.
Re-solder all 4 connections and created opening cover with silicone to prevent moisture to get in. Be careful do not overfill opening with silicone.
If anybody here will help me how to upload picture of it, I will do it.
Also you can send me e-mail and I can send pics.
This pedal position sensor have a dual output inverse of each other, a redundancy for safety reasons.
Cost of sensor on line ($270, at Lexus $400)
I replace several of them and after taking it a part I found common problem on them, what is easy fixable.
Malfunction of that sensor is caused by improper cleaning of organic solder residue during manufacturing of sensor.
This organic solder is very aggressive and after years of exposing this solder to environment, acid in that solder destroy it and create cold connection.
manufactured forget basic rule about cleaning contacts after solder and protect it against moisture by covering soldered area with some kind of protective layer what is very common in automotive industry (shame on Toyota).
Fix is very easy and can be done in less than hour include dismount and mount of sensor.
To do so, just make small opening in white plastic cover at location where is connector to access soldering points.
Re-solder all 4 connections and created opening cover with silicone to prevent moisture to get in. Be careful do not overfill opening with silicone.
If anybody here will help me how to upload picture of it, I will do it.
Also you can send me e-mail and I can send pics.
I had the same symptoms as all are describing (sluggish acceleration, limp mode, lights on dash...) and after reading code I thought it was the TPS switch, Turned out to be a waste of money. The accelerator pedal sensor was the culprit. I regretfully didn't take pictures but will give helpful tips and pointers.
Do not unbolt the throttle cable bracket assembly that is held on with one 10mm nut! It holds the wound up tension springs and let me tell you, took me forever to get them back on and timed and I still don't have the previous pedal tension. It's a little softer now so I am not going to disassemble it again just for a harder pedal. I wish to save you the aggravation so no need to remove this nut.
1: Unbolt the negative terminal from the battery. This will help reset the code.
2: Use a small mirror to see the bolts and line up tools. Helps tremendously.
3: Unbolt the 2 10mm bolts holding the accelerator cable bracket to the throttle body. Use a 1/4" ratchet with a Phillips head socket on to get the 8mm bolts that hold the sensor on to the throttle body.
4: Once off, you will see the white plastic cover that Peter2000 mentions. It is held in place by 6 tabs that are bent over the housing and white plastic cover. I tried to bend the tabs back but you have to be careful not to go too far. Just barely enough to be able to pry the white plastic cover. I bent only 3 that are closest to the plug end of the sensor. I broke a couple but it doesn't really matter because as how it's assembled together. I then pried the white plastic cover and it snapped perfectly just where the solder points are. It's brittle from heat and snapped cleanly. I want to say like 1/3 the size of the plastic cover will be plenty of room to work the solder gun. Once it was off, I saw the 4 solder points and you can see the poor solder used and the poor work from factory. I simply used better solder and re-soldered the contacts.
5: Once the solder work is finished, replace the broken, white plastic piece and glue it back on. I used medium cure modelers glue (crazy glue) to fill in the gaps and for quick setting.
6: Bolt sensor back on.
7: Plug harness plug back on.
8: Connect negative terminal to battery.
9: Go for test drive.
10: Enjoy the simple fix and the many hundreds of dollars saved vs buying the sensor or getting ripped at the dealer for way more.
http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums...6/#entry465953
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...type=1&theater
Last edited by GSGregB; Jun 21, 2014 at 04:42 PM. Reason: Add test and picture
Rookie
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 57
Likes: 4
From: ca
I know this is an old thread but I just want to thanks Peter2000 for this solution. The resoldering is working at least week so far. I filled in the broken plastic area with RTV instead of regluing the broken plastic pieces. Thanks for saving me money!
I appreciate this thread..
Threw a code p1121 and p1120.
Changed out the APPS using part #22060-46010, and voila! good as new.
https://www.amazon.com/Toyota-Factor...ds=22060-46010
Threw a code p1121 and p1120.
Changed out the APPS using part #22060-46010, and voila! good as new.
https://www.amazon.com/Toyota-Factor...ds=22060-46010