Those with aftermarket engine management...
Any idea why in park (and neutral) my car (with a f10x) idles at about 2000 rpm, but in reverse or drive, right under 1k at about 14.0-15.0 AFR? Also when I give it more fuel at idle (because its 2 lean..say 17.0 afr) the rpm's steadily increases until im at about 15 afr where its then at about 2k.
Thanks
Thanks
yea everything is working fine...but with the coolant sensor, I tapped into the ecu water temp sensor for my haltech, and the haltech reads it fine, but after idling on a hot day for about 10 min my stock gauge didnt budge...can I not tap into that or something?
The haltech is probably messing with the coolant temp sensor going to the stock ecu. If the temp needle does not budge after the car is warmed up then thats most likely your high idle. When you say it doesn't budge I assume you mean the needle stays at full cold right?
The haltech was designed to use its own sensor for coolant and air temp. Pretty much all standalones are this way. It outputs its own 5v signal to the sensor. It messes up the reading because both the stock ecu and haltech are putting out a line voltage. They are fighting each other because of the differnt voltages and readings.
There are 2 ways to go about it. Either buy another coolant temp sensor, tap it in the block and use it specifically for the haltech and leave the stock ecu on the oem sensor. The other option is to open up the haltech ecu and modify the board to get rid of the 5v sensor source voltage. Basically what you're doing is removing the 5v output in the haltech, so it reads solely off the stock ecu's output voltage. Usually involves desoldering one or two connections on the board. You will have to back trace the circuit board to find the correct one though.
There are 2 ways to go about it. Either buy another coolant temp sensor, tap it in the block and use it specifically for the haltech and leave the stock ecu on the oem sensor. The other option is to open up the haltech ecu and modify the board to get rid of the 5v sensor source voltage. Basically what you're doing is removing the 5v output in the haltech, so it reads solely off the stock ecu's output voltage. Usually involves desoldering one or two connections on the board. You will have to back trace the circuit board to find the correct one though.
Last edited by JeffTsai; Jun 1, 2009 at 10:26 AM.
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ok...so i have more problems lol but before I start just so you know, the ONLY change I have made is hooking up the haltech coolant sensor (which is working great) ok so I start the car, nothing special, it runs...so I make some changes to the fuel map (very minor changes, just at idle) and so I'm like ok this looks good, i shut the hood jump in the car, throw it in reverse...and it dies, like bam its dead type of thing. (keep in mind I had JUST drivin it up the street and back with no problems the day before) so I check out some stuff and start it back..and it runs horrible! (the computer is disconnected at this time) so I cut it off, start it back, and it runs perfect! so I hook the computer back up, double check everything, put it reverse and its fine...(afr did drop a little for a second) pulled it out and back in the driveway, popped it in Park and it dies, like before..not like it got lean or rich and died..like someone pulled the plug....so any ideas?
Also I noticed a loud clicking noise coming from the fuel rail (or injectors) that sometime was LOUD like I thought it was a valve or something..and then other times (at the same rpm..nothing changed) would be very quiet...(the change in sound would happen between starts of the car)
any help would be great!
* By "computer" I am referring to my laptop used to tune the Haltech
Also I noticed a loud clicking noise coming from the fuel rail (or injectors) that sometime was LOUD like I thought it was a valve or something..and then other times (at the same rpm..nothing changed) would be very quiet...(the change in sound would happen between starts of the car)
any help would be great!
* By "computer" I am referring to my laptop used to tune the Haltech
Ok, if the only change you made was to the coolant temp. Then that leads me to believe that it has thrown something off in the tune. Because before, you were tapping into the stock sensor which could of given you some funky readings. Now that you're running the haltech with its own sensor, the temp input might be different. Go in and check your coolant temp compensation tables and also the startup/warmup compensation tables. Dial those in a little better and you should be back up and running.
Also, you need to go through the sensor voltage/temperature table and type the values in for the new sensor. Or just goto the menu and select the new sensor from the list. If the Haltech supports that specific sensor you installed, then it should have the values pre-loaded in the menu for you to select.
Also, you need to go through the sensor voltage/temperature table and type the values in for the new sensor. Or just goto the menu and select the new sensor from the list. If the Haltech supports that specific sensor you installed, then it should have the values pre-loaded in the menu for you to select.
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