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Who all has a successful NA-T WITH a CEL? and for how long. On a diff note, my car all the sudden has started running rich (13.8-14.1 idle and 12.2-12.8 cruise, and the warmer it gets the richer it gets) it was running in optimal AFR ranges, then all the sudden (after about 2 weeks of it being fine) it started rich...any ideas? and im running the FIC
Thanks
Who all has a successful NA-T WITH a CEL? and for how long. On a diff note, my car all the sudden has started running rich (13.8-14.1 idle and 12.2-12.8 cruise, and the warmer it gets the richer it gets) it was running in optimal AFR ranges, then all the sudden (after about 2 weeks of it being fine) it started rich...any ideas? and im running the FIC
Thanks
Again, I have never used an FIC but that sounds exactly like what I was telling was going to happen when the stock ecu started to alter long term fuel maps.
If we just assume that the FIC isn't affected by the factory ecu at all you have already somewhat answered your own question.
You said it got warmer outside, this mean the air has less oxygen, less oxygen with the same amount of fuel = car runs rich.
Does the FIC have any sort of temperature correction? For instance, the Haltech F10x fuel controller has a dedicated intake air temp sensor that goes in your intercooler piping to counteract the effects of air changes.
Have you tried resetting your battery? You can *try* to reset your battery then go immediately drive the car and see if you notice a change in A/F. It probably won't make a difference but you can try it.
Again, I have never used an FIC but that sounds exactly like what I was telling was going to happen when the stock ecu started to alter long term fuel maps.
If we just assume that the FIC isn't affected by the factory ecu at all you have already somewhat answered your own question.
You said it got warmer outside, this mean the air has less oxygen, less oxygen with the same amount of fuel = car runs rich.
Does the FIC have any sort of temperature correction? For instance, the Haltech F10x fuel controller has a dedicated intake air temp sensor that goes in your intercooler piping to counteract the effects of air changes.
Have you tried resetting your battery? You can *try* to reset your battery then go immediately drive the car and see if you notice a change in A/F. It probably won't make a difference but you can try it.
^^ long term fuel map was the term i couldn't think of, what i meant by the ecu self learn thing.
check clubna-t.com, they have a whole forum dedicated to the FIC and how to tune it. There are plenty of guys over there who have done it successfully with the FIC on both non-vvti and vvti na-t applications.
nope, thats not it, and resetting the ecu would fix it if that was the case..and it doesn't work, also i meant as the car got warmer...not the air outside, and also, you dont mess with the 02 skew until you get into boost, and my real problem was that 1 of my primary 02's stopped working (dont know if it was wiring or a sensor failure) so when my computer tried to compare the signals... it screwed it up and ran really rich, and also..if it was the ecu "re-learning" it would get leaner, not richer, and also, on top of that, one of my injector wires was loose, which explains why it would act up really bad once in awhile, and then be fine.
Last edited by fordsvtmfl; Feb 5, 2009 at 04:46 PM.
nope, thats not it, and resetting the ecu would fix it if that was the case..and it doesn't work, also i meant as the car got warmer...not the air outside, and also, you dont mess with the 02 skew until you get into boost, and my real problem was that 1 of my primary 02's stopped working (dont know if it was wiring or a sensor failure) so when my computer tried to compare the signals... it screwed it up and ran really rich, and also..if it was the ecu "re-learning" it would get leaner, not richer, and also, on top of that, one of my injector wires was loose, which explains why it would act up really bad once in awhile, and then be fine.
yep lol ...as much as ive learned from this turbo project...im almost wishing i would have put the money into suspension...lol hopefully ill have it running on saturday. It was kinda funny, i wired the 02's so that they wouldnt freak out on me...and it ran so nice..(well at idle, and my afr was right on) so i put the cover back on the ecm, hooked everything else back up, jumped in the car to take it for a ride, started it...and it just stuttered and died...lol i was so pissed...thats like the tenth time ive "fixed" it and then something random happens and it just dies...so 30 min later i figured out it was my fault (not connecting the inj 4 wire good enough) which was actually a relief to know it was me, and not a computer problem.
yep lol ...as much as ive learned from this turbo project...im almost wishing i would have put the money into suspension...lol hopefully ill have it running on saturday. It was kinda funny, i wired the 02's so that they wouldnt freak out on me...and it ran so nice..(well at idle, and my afr was right on) so i put the cover back on the ecm, hooked everything else back up, jumped in the car to take it for a ride, started it...and it just stuttered and died...lol i was so pissed...thats like the tenth time ive "fixed" it and then something random happens and it just dies...so 30 min later i figured out it was my fault (not connecting the inj 4 wire good enough) which was actually a relief to know it was me, and not a computer problem.
i'm just beginning my project and i can already tell it's going to be a pain until i get used to how the car is gonna act.
like i said, if youre not already a member on na-t, join NOW. there are so many guys over there who have had the same exact problems and have successfully used the FIC (over the emanage and map ECU) to run tons of power on NA-T setups.
From what your original post said I thought you were referring to ambient air temps.
On the subject of wiring, I'm sure you know this but you should ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS solder your wires (not saying you dont already but for anyone reading this who is going to do a swap/turbo install). Any good tech/installer will tell you that. If you twist and tape your wires or use wire taps they WILL come loose eventually and either loose contact or cause intermittent contact which can be a nightmare to track down.
At least you found it quickly this time and got back on the road.
From what your original post said I thought you were referring to ambient air temps.
On the subject of wiring, I'm sure you know this but you should ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS solder your wires (not saying you dont already but for anyone reading this who is going to do a swap/turbo install). Any good tech/installer will tell you that. If you twist and tape your wires or use wire taps they WILL come loose eventually and either loose contact or cause intermittent contact which can be a nightmare to track down.
At least you found it quickly this time and got back on the road.
yes...i admit it...i thought i could get away with heat shrink connectors.......so yea...everyone else...DONT DO THAT! lol at least im getting really good at figuring out whats wrong..lol
i know this will sound weird...but im glad my build/tune wasnt perfect the first time...im going to be a mechanic of some kind (hopefully performance) and i need the experience of something going wrong, and then figuring out whats wrong (quickly) and fixing it (quickly and the right way) its just one of those invaluable learning type things..lol