Originally Posted by JeffTsai

First of all I would suggest dumping the Apexi Neo. It's not a very good piggy back for this car. It works great on other cars, but just not on the GS.

1. Wiring diagram refer to my DIY website listed on the first post of this entire thread.

2. There is no golden number because every car will react slightly differently. I would suggest doing a linear increase. If you're on the factory fuel system then you want 7psi of boost to be around 30% fuel increase. Please verify with a wideband sensor that your air fuel mix is good before doing a extended pull.

3. With the Neo you will throw a CEL. I suggest you getting an AEM FIC or Greddy Emanage ultimate. Both of those units have a function called O2 skew. Basically it tricks the stock ecu into thinking all the readings are correct and you won't throw a CEL. The O2 skew function is for the primary O2 sensors before the cat. This is different than a O2 simulator. The O2 sim modifies the signal for the sensors after the catalytic converters. The use of a O2 sim is so you can remove the cats and prevent the CEL from showing up.

4. Every BOV is different. The way to adjust it really depends on how it's designed. I have a HKS SSQV on my car and it requires no adjustment at all. The Tial BOV you have to replace the bov spring to what your boost level is. There is a preload screw on most BOV's so you can dial it in to where you want. For yours you just have to adjust it until you get no more turbo flutter at low boost, and not so tight to where the bov doesn't vent correctly at high boost or leak out. It pretty much comes down to fine tuning it.

5. A turbo timer is nice, and I usually activate mine if I just had a spirited drive. If you run the car hard, it's not a good idea to shut it off right away because the oil will solidify in the turbo. Once you do that too many times the lubrication passages in the turbo get smaller and smaller and will eventually become completely clogged. Analogy: just like a heart attack, but oil is to a turbo oil like blood to is a heart.

Let it idle at least 2-3minutes to cool down right after a spirited drive. If you were driving extremely hard going ***** out to the wall then let it cool down for 5 minutes or so. Another trick is to just cruise granny style before you get to wherever you need to be. Typically I just cruise slow when I'm 1-2 miles away from where I need to be then I can just shut it off right after I park the car. Also, most aftermarket remote start alarms have turbo timer functions built in(I have the Autopage RS-1000 and it has that function). I usually still turbo time it for 30sec anyway just because it looks cool

6. The ECU in this car is highly adaptive and tries to adjust everything as close to perfect operating condition as possible. It's great because it is extremely good at doing it. The downside is that you don't want to be running factory tune under boost because it is WAY too lean and you will destroy the motor with the factory tune. What happens much of the time is that you will tune the car and everything will be peachy for about 50-100 miles. Then all of a sudden out of nowhere the tune will start going out of whack and you will have to retune it. That's why I suggested using the AEM FIC or Greddy emanage ultimate. They have the O2 skew function that tricks the factory ECU into thinking everything is working properly. That way the stock ecu won't keep fighting your tune. Without the O2 skew, you tune will keep getting messed up.

Anything critical...well it's an awesome learning experience. For me I've only been working on cars seriously for the past 2 years, and speaking humbly...I think I'm pretty decent at it now . For me, there was really nobody that could give a guiding or helping hand. I believe I was the first DIY NA-T pioneer here on CL. I pretty much had to figure out most of it by myself. I guess that's one of the reasons why I learned so much, because when you have nobody else to help you out...you have to learn and know everything and how it all works. Late nights of research and many nights spent in the garage is pretty much how I've spent most of the last year of my life. Don't even have money/time for a girlfriend lol

If anyone has questions, please read through this entire thread first. If you still don't find what you need to know, feel free to ask and I can be your guide.

Originally Posted by angelgs

I have a 02 gs300 with 230,000 + am debating into either swaping to aristo or building it. I have search and I find Is the wiring would be challenging any input and advise would be appreciated I found places in florida I can get the swap for $1900 with driveshaft