Port Matching?...
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Driver
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Texas
Port Matching?...
Has anyone removed the intake MANIFOLD/PLENUM from the motor to see if there's any port matching that can be done? I assume there would be 2 spots to look at, the Throttle Body to Plenum & Plenum to Motor..
If there is any room for this mod, then I would think a Dremel & some 600-1000 grit sand paper would do the trick...
Let me know if any of you guys have though about or tried this yet.
If there is any room for this mod, then I would think a Dremel & some 600-1000 grit sand paper would do the trick...
Let me know if any of you guys have though about or tried this yet.
I've thought about it, It seems to be an easy break down on the intake mantifold. I would think it would be close now but to smooth out with sand paper or dremel would still help.
Thread Starter
Driver
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 179
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From: Texas
TB to Manifold
I was just hoping that somebody on here has removed the manifold to get a better look at whats benethe.
Gernby, I'm going up to Dallas Performace sometime this week to talk to them about putting some headers in their CAD system to see what they can come up with. He told me downtime would be 2-3 days but he wouldn't give me a rough estimate..just said $75/hr to fabricate.
I personally don't want to be without a car for that long but I'll check him out anyways since they're so close to my work. If you haven't already seen it, I've attached is a link to some of their work that they did on a 335i. Some kid posted their web site in another CL forum but I wanted to see what you thought about it.
http://www.dallasperformance.com/DPExhaust/index.htm
Thread Starter
Driver
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 179
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From: Texas
Haha
Haha Yea that's pretty crazy! In all reality, I seriously doubt I'd ever let somebody pull my motor just for headers, especially not even being a year old yet. I always like to hear what you have to say though. I'll go check out your comment
Taylor has done some real amazing work. I've seen some of his work on other forums and stuff has been jaw dropping. Taylor just recently did some electrical work for one of our friends 800+ hp Supra. There is probably only one other guy (in DFW) to perform high quality work like he does and Taylor knows who that is too.
-Joe
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Thread Starter
Driver
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 179
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From: Texas
Nice to know
Even though it may seem necessary you can remove both manifolds off the car with the engine in it. I've already had to do so. The right side shouldn't be difficult. The left side is what I had to replace. They were on a 250 which isn't all that different. The 250's transmission required replacement. The left manifold and starter requires removal to get access to the torque convertor's bolts. The same applies to the IS350. You need to remove the left manifold and starter to get access to these bolts.
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Pole Position
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 2,883
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From: Coral Springs, Fl
Anybody ever hear of ExtrudeHone? It's a process that uses extruded clay for porting and polishing heads and manifolds. Pretty amazing.
http://www.extrudehone.com/
http://www.extrudehone.com/auto/auto-performance.php
http://www.extrudehone.com/
http://www.extrudehone.com/auto/auto-performance.php
Last edited by IS350jet; Dec 12, 2007 at 07:32 AM.
Extrudehone has been around for a long time. If your goal is to smooth out the OEM shape without altering it, extrudehone rocks.
AFA port matching - the gains you'll see will be tiny unless there is gross misalignment. The real gains in port work are in the last 1/2" above the valve seat unless you're going for all out high rpm performance and ignoring idle to midrange performance. Radical changes in port geometry should not be attempted without a full consideration of the engine's ultimate goal.
Also, you'll be there all day with a Dremel. Get a 1/4" die grinder if you want to be done anytime soon. You'll also need 100 or 150 grit cartridge rolls. Anything finer is a waste of time and won't leave a good finish.
Finally, you'll want to put some dowel pins in the manifold to permanently align it. If you don't, all your magic will be for naught when you assemble it misaligned. (Yes, I know all these issues because I've dealt with them many times).
AFA port matching - the gains you'll see will be tiny unless there is gross misalignment. The real gains in port work are in the last 1/2" above the valve seat unless you're going for all out high rpm performance and ignoring idle to midrange performance. Radical changes in port geometry should not be attempted without a full consideration of the engine's ultimate goal.
Also, you'll be there all day with a Dremel. Get a 1/4" die grinder if you want to be done anytime soon. You'll also need 100 or 150 grit cartridge rolls. Anything finer is a waste of time and won't leave a good finish.
Finally, you'll want to put some dowel pins in the manifold to permanently align it. If you don't, all your magic will be for naught when you assemble it misaligned. (Yes, I know all these issues because I've dealt with them many times).
I don't think you can extrudehone a thermo plastic manifold so I wouldn't do so.
As far as port matching, The OEM manifold is already matched to the throttle body and the intake port valve control assembly. You won't get any benefit there unless you design a new manifold all together. The exhaust side could use some inprovement. The manifold is restrictive and could use some tubes designed slightly longer with a smoother merge and the primary cats removed. The secondary o2 sensors should then be relocated after the secondary cats and the headers and pipes leading to the secondary cats should be thermo tech wrapped since the ecu is inspecting the warm up time and could flag an error code. Not to mention the heat on the left bank will reduce the life of the engine's starter unless it was protected from it.
As far as port matching, The OEM manifold is already matched to the throttle body and the intake port valve control assembly. You won't get any benefit there unless you design a new manifold all together. The exhaust side could use some inprovement. The manifold is restrictive and could use some tubes designed slightly longer with a smoother merge and the primary cats removed. The secondary o2 sensors should then be relocated after the secondary cats and the headers and pipes leading to the secondary cats should be thermo tech wrapped since the ecu is inspecting the warm up time and could flag an error code. Not to mention the heat on the left bank will reduce the life of the engine's starter unless it was protected from it.
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