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Old Dec 4, 2007 | 08:50 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by IStreefidy
maybe if your motor blows, instead of spending thousands on a new 2gr, you could try to swap in a 2JZ-TT
Ha I've been think the same thing. I have a built 2JZ-GTE motor already. I'd just have to pick up a tranny for it. Oh yeah, turbo mantifold, turbo, intercooler, injectors, fuelrail, radiator, custom driveshaft, standalone EMS, and about $1000.00 dollars worth of misc parts. Never mind!! I'll stick to rebuilding the stock motor. ( I'll build it for boost ) Supercharge 15psi.
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Old Dec 4, 2007 | 11:14 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by Jeremy
Man, You mean for the last ten years I've been just wasting my money on NOS. HA. What do you mean? I've had great time with everyone of my nitrous setups in the past. I have always used the wet kits and have always proved large gains with even small shots. And tricking the MAF was the timeless age old way to tune cars before all the EMS systems came about in the late 90's. Just ask any Supra guy(including me)who has made 500 hp on the factory MAF.their are better ways. But it does work. I'd rather spend $150.00 on an A/F controller that tricks the MAF than a stand alone that you have to tune everytime the weather changes. For what gains, 10hp. My pick is the cheap A/F controller. I could see if I had a huge upgrade to the motor. But I don't. BTW I will be running a wet kit and I am using an A`pexi SAFC to lean my A/F ratio's via MAF tricking. Don't get me wrong I like standalones. And have had everyone ever made on past cars. But not needed for this project. I have no reason to be messing with injector duty cycle, phasing, and all the cold start-up issues for a 50 shot of NOS.


You actually just verified what I said. Although you are going at it around about way. I was just trying to explain that using a dry kit and relying on the MAF tricks to supplement all of your fuel is generally a cheap solution and will lead to issues over time. The tried and true wet system is much more reliable and consistent. I was contrasting this to the other people that mentioned using a dry shot.

500 hp was that impressive?

Just kidding, good luck on the juice.
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Old Dec 4, 2007 | 11:34 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by Taylor@DP

500 hp was that impressive?

Just kidding, good luck on the juice.
LOL. Only for about 5 mins.
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Old Dec 4, 2007 | 11:36 AM
  #49  
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Default Wet v.s. Dry

Originally Posted by Jeremy
LOL. Only for about 5 mins.
When you refer to Wet/Dry, do you mean with & without fuel?
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Old Dec 4, 2007 | 12:07 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by Chaser07
When you refer to Wet/Dry, do you mean with & without fuel?
Correct, wet kit refers to a nitrous system that is controlling fuel with a solenoid along with the nitrous solenoid. Dry kit is only controlling nitrous and relying on other means to add fuel. Both have their applications and positives and negatives. The wet kit is generally a safer design and more adjustable although more expensive also.
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Old Dec 4, 2007 | 12:12 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by Chaser07
When you refer to Wet/Dry, do you mean with & without fuel?
A wet kit sprays N2O and gasoline together, and is controlled by a crude analog circuit with simple spray nozzles.

A dry kit just sprays N20, and relies on the installer to figure out some other source of enrichment (additional fuel injector with computer control, standalone ECU, etc.).

I would expect a well implemented dry kit to be more reliable, more efficient, and certainly more expensive.
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Old Dec 4, 2007 | 12:16 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by Taylor@DP
The wet kit is generally a safer design and more adjustable although more expensive also.
How could this be true? I would expect any complete dry kit setup to have a better source of additional fuel than what comes with a wet kit.
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Old Dec 4, 2007 | 12:44 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by Gernby
How could this be true? I would expect any complete dry kit setup to have a better source of additional fuel than what comes with a wet kit.
Ohh boy, no worries do what you feel best. 95% of the time cars using a dry system and using the computer to increase fuel unless based on a full stand alone EMS with inputs for this, adjusting the MAF,MAP,KR,whatever signal enough and so forth are not as instantaneous as the nitrous hit. You end up with a second or two of a very lean A/F before the calibration "catches up". I don't care what the computer tells you it is suppose to be doing, this is based on actual testing both at the track with a logged wide band, EGT, etc. and on the dyno. Yes in theory your super tuning should work, but it has not worked RELIABLY thus far on any vehicle I've tested.

Like I said there are exceptions to the rule and maybe the IS350 EMS is going to handle it just fine. I just don't see what the advantage is when the wet kit is very elementary and work 100% of the time all the time. No guess work.
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Old Dec 4, 2007 | 12:47 PM
  #54  
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I just wanted to add that all the debating in the world will not prove anything. I know what has worked in reality for us in the past and what has not.

There is always something new and something better and I am always open and anxious to find a better solution but at this point have not seen one.
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Old Dec 4, 2007 | 01:02 PM
  #55  
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No .. no .. I wasn't trying to say that altering OEM sensors with a piggy-back would do the trick. I've already dismissed that idea. I was saying that I would expect a well tuned standalone or additional fuel injector controller would be better than a wet kit. Also, as you know, I don't have any experience with this, so my expectations are just that ... "expectations".
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Old Dec 4, 2007 | 01:02 PM
  #56  
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one thing to remember is our cars run way fat at full throttle, like 10.5 or less.
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Old Dec 4, 2007 | 01:48 PM
  #57  
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Good to know. I would just hate to see anyone "learn the hard way" so to speak on some of the fundamentals that sound great but don't actually work well...

Then in that case I would agree with your statement but I think it is an un-necessary cost for the size shot that would be suited for this application.
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Old Dec 4, 2007 | 02:02 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by Gernby
How could this be true? I would expect any complete dry kit setup to have a better source of additional fuel than what comes with a wet kit.
Gernby, A wet kit is always safer. I know that you don't see the benifets of using a wet kit. You can tune the jets to what ever A/F ratio you like. A standalone will work, but who wants all the problems that come along with a standalone. It would be real easy to install a EMS on the port injectors. And most likely wouldn't cause a CIL. But unless you've tuned with one and no all of the prolbems that come along with an EMS then I would steer away.

Heres some pics
Attached Thumbnails nos?-random-motorpics-008.jpg  
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Old Dec 4, 2007 | 02:04 PM
  #59  
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Here is where I tapped my fuel source
Attached Thumbnails nos?-random-motorpics-005.jpg  
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Old Dec 4, 2007 | 02:05 PM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by Buford
one thing to remember is our cars run way fat at full throttle, like 10.5 or less.
That hasn't been my experience. Mine seems to run near stoich even at WOT until it hits about 3500 RPMs, then it slowly richens up to about 12.
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