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Knowing what you're doing just reduces the risk. Even if you know what you're doing, you could still have a solenoid stick open or closed or a nozzle clog and blow your motor.
You can design a pretty idiot-proof system if you do it right.
Nothing's perfect of course but here's an example (on a totally different car but gives you an idea how "safe" you can make something pretty dangerous to start with) of a pretty well done system-
1. Fuel pump must be running to get power to the N2O system and bottle heater.
2. Main N2O switch must be on
3. Fuel pressure must be over 30psi
4. First I arm it. This also opens the bottle. That's all I have to do to start it off.
5. At that time power goes to the Throttle switch, but nothing occurs yet.
6. When I go to WOT, power goes to the the RPM box for the 1st stage
7. At 4600rpm stage1 and 1deg retard goes on, and the stage 2 delay starts
8. When the delay shuts off, power is applied to the RPM box for the 2nd stage
9. At 4800rpm stage 2 (after timer delay) and 3 more deg retard goes on (only if the 2nd stage switch is on)
10. Over 6300rpm, N2O shuts off.(I start shift at 6200)
If fuel pressure goes below 30psi in the main fuel line, N2O shuts off. If throttle is moved, N2O shuts off and delay box is rearmed. When I'm done with the run, I hit the disarming switch, which shuts the system and closes the bottle. If the fuel pump shuts down, the N2O shuts off.
I'm also adding the ultimate in safety features, an electronic switch that will shut off the N2O, adjustable from 600 to 800mv. This will not allow the N2O solenoids to activate during a lean condition.
not planning on running nitrous on my new 09 is250 awd... but... on my 2k Accord 4cyl auto (6-7 years ago) i killed of 3.0 seconds (11.3 to 8.3) on my 0-60 times and 2.2 seconds (18.1 to 15.9) off my 1/4 mile on a ZEX dry 75 shot (damn my car was slow)
I bottle launched and brake torqued( or "torque brake" whatever you call it) of the line every time and was consistent with track times and g-tech times give or take .2 secs
so technically an 80 shot of nitrous should do roughly the same and a 100 shot should take of at LEAST 2.5 secs of yer E.T. sooo meaning= 350's should be seeing high 11's or better on a good night
^ Maybe. You would def. have to run 100 octane and a set of Drag Radials. Also some weight reductions. My car before was a 13.3's in the 1/4 mile. An 80 shot got me down to a 12.55 so a 100 shot should be good for 12.2's. A good driver and another 100 lbs weight reduction could get down into the 11's. Just the weight reduction would take another 0.1 off the 1/4. That's 12.1's DR's maybe another 0.1 so 12.0 and a better driver than me = 11.99's. Its plausible.
the motor should be able to handle a 100 shot...Ive seen civics run 100 shot on stock block and manual tranny, question is can the auto tranny handle it? hehe I fried my tranny after a while... had to upgrade with a Level 10 torque converter and tranny rebuild kit, with all said n done cost over $3000 Canadian dollars to fix
a tranny cooler which runs for like $100 would be an essential investment
do you have a purge kit, bottle warmer and nitrous pressure gauge to monitor that you get the complete "80" shot everytime you spray? if i remember correctly the nitrous pressure gauge has to be b/w 950-1100 psi to get the full shot... anything less (like in a cold night/day) and you would be spraying half a shot
also are you bottle launching?
good luck on the spraying! if your satisfied with what the 80 shot gives you DON'T go for more!.... that is what causes most people to blow a tranny or a motor... after all 12.55 is pretty damn fast for a street car as it is.
Yeah I'm satisfied with what I have now. I'm more into the car show side of things not really racing. I have all stated above and a few more safety devices. I do spray above 2000 rpms in every gear. I think the tranny will be fine, my old IS300T handled 550 wtq before it fried. Toyota has some great transmissions I'm more worried about not being able to remove timing more than anything else. With timing control, more fuel and race fuel I think the IS350 can handle 150 shot (max). I'll never do it. Could careless. I take the bottle, brackets, fuses, fuel line and bottle heater out of the car unless I plan on going to the track. Here in North Carolina they consider Nitrous installed in a car as " conspiracy to race " even if you don't have the bottle on. And that's all I need is to be out with the wife and kids to dinner and go through a check point where they pop your trunk and get my car impounded despite the fact that their are no laws in NC about having Nitrous on the car.
BTW, You will not be installing any tranny coolers on the 2IS's they have coolant lines that run antifreeze into the transmission.
i should have known about the coolant lines before investing in a tranny cooler.. Ill remember that next time.. I was wondering if I can also do a 60 or 75 shot for the gs350.. Im gonna be looking into this and will be next year's project.. Awesome thread btw!!
I know I'm wayyyyy late to this party, but the thread was a good read. With the factory computer tuning out changes over time, how has the SAFC performed? Do the changes hold, or do you have to constantly adjust it? My Mustang is my toy, but I have problems leaving anything stock, so I imagine something will be happening to the IS .
I have a 99 gs300 with around 200k miles on it and am running a zex 75 shot dry nos . I didn't use the throttle sensor , I used a button instead I have a switch to turn on and button to spray .I spray from 3000rpm thru 6000rpm any lower than 3000 the engine will make a knocking sound trust me don't go lower . I ran it at the track and did a 15.2 at 90.1 miles in the 1/4mile and this is with a extra optima battery and 20s ,I took my sub box and spare out before I race.
Wrapping the intake and exhaust surprised me on how big the difference was with the heat
11-13-08, 08:50 AM
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