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aristo tt vvti question

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Old Apr 19, 2007 | 12:14 PM
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Default aristo tt vvti question

was wondering what mods and boost level could i run on a stock aristo tt vvti ecu?so far have dp, midpipe, exhaust and blitz bc. what kind of power would i be lookin at? im goin from a bpu 1994 rx7 to this car. tryin to get the same rush i got from the rx7.
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Old Apr 20, 2007 | 10:51 PM
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Originally Posted by gotparts?
was wondering what mods and boost level could i run on a stock aristo tt vvti ecu?so far have dp, midpipe, exhaust and blitz bc. what kind of power would i be lookin at? im goin from a bpu 1994 rx7 to this car. tryin to get the same rush i got from the rx7.
Are you just using the ecu ? How much power did the rx have, fd series ?
I have heard no more than 16psi while others have pushed them to 18psi before the ceramic compressor blades shatter.
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Old Apr 21, 2007 | 12:14 AM
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I think fuel cut is at 14psi.

I have 3" downpipe to dual 2.5" exhaust and am currently boosting around 12.5-13lbs on stock ecu. No boost controller.


And like what twojayzee said, about the ceramic compressor blades. It'll fly out of your exhaust if u run too high of a boost.
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Old Apr 21, 2007 | 12:30 AM
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Aristos have steel blades, Supra's have ceramic. It's actually an upgrade in Japan to swap the Supra wheels out for Aristo wheels.

Either way, if you are running bpu through an auto you should be able to see hi 300's/low 400's at the wheels pretty easily.
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Old Apr 21, 2007 | 01:33 AM
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Originally Posted by macd7919
Aristos have steel blades, Supra's have ceramic. It's actually an upgrade in Japan to swap the Supra wheels out for Aristo wheels.

Either way, if you are running bpu through an auto you should be able to see hi 300's/low 400's at the wheels pretty easily.


I think you got them mixed up.
the JDM Turbos have ceramic blades.. UK and US have steel blades
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Old Apr 21, 2007 | 07:39 AM
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Originally Posted by mikal
I think fuel cut is at 14psi.

I have 3" downpipe to dual 2.5" exhaust and am currently boosting around 12.5-13lbs on stock ecu. No boost controller.


And like what twojayzee said, about the ceramic compressor blades. It'll fly out of your exhaust if u run too high of a boost.
You sir are correct. I would recomend either a greddy or hkc fcd to bypass the 13psi

Originally Posted by macd7919
Aristos have steel blades, Supra's have ceramic. It's actually an upgrade in Japan to swap the Supra wheels out for Aristo wheels.

Either way, if you are running bpu through an auto you should be able to see hi 300's/low 400's at the wheels pretty easily.
You need to swap the whole turbo setup. The steel blades dont fit in the JDM housings. Different AR ratios as well. see below

Originally Posted by mikal
I think you got them mixed up.
the JDM Turbos have ceramic blades.. UK and US have steel blades
Yup on the jdm ceramics.
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Old Apr 21, 2007 | 07:43 AM
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No, I dont have them mixed up.

The Jdm uses a ceramic exhaust side, Aristo's use a steel exhaust side from the CT20A turbo (as well as some turbo diesels).

Here is a link straight from our sister Supra site (I was a long time TT owner and member of Supraforums since 2001) if you would like to check it out

http://mkiv.supras.org.nz/specs.htm

Either way, you should see high 300's pretty easy, if you need a fuel cut eliminator use the Greddy not the Hks. Both will work but the Greddy is the proper design to use with our car, if you want more info do a search or check out mkiv.com for a more in depth explanation of the difference. If you want to get rid of speed cut that is a seperate thing, in that case you will need an HKS Sld type 2.

Last edited by macd7919; Apr 21, 2007 at 07:54 AM.
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Old Apr 21, 2007 | 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by macd7919
No, I dont have them mixed up.

The Jdm uses a ceramic exhaust side, Aristo's use a steel exhaust side from the CT20A turbo (as well as some turbo diesels).

Here is a link straight from our sister Supra site (I was a long time TT owner and member of Supraforums since 2001) if you would like to check it out

http://mkiv.supras.org.nz/specs.htm

Either way, you should see high 300's pretty easy, if you need a fuel cut eliminator use the Greddy not the Hks. Both will work but the Greddy is the proper design to use with our car, if you want more info do a search or check out mkiv.com for a more in depth explanation of the difference. If you want to get rid of speed cut that is a seperate thing, in that case you will need an HKS Sld type 2.
So we were both right. The important thing is the compressor blades are what explode. If the exhaust side lets go it just goes out the exhaust side. When a compressor side lets go it can go down the intake and cause damage...
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Old Apr 23, 2007 | 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by twojayzee
Are you just using the ecu ? How much power did the rx have, fd series ?
I have heard no more than 16psi while others have pushed them to 18psi before the ceramic compressor blades shatter.
about 280 to the wheel running pig rich.
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Old Apr 24, 2007 | 01:26 AM
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You will hit 280 easily with a swap. Mid 300's (around 350 whp) should be pretty easy to hit. Single turbo will make quite a bit more but on stock twins you are easily good for mid 300's at the wheel.
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Old Apr 24, 2007 | 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by macd7919
You will hit 280 easily with a swap. Mid 300's (around 350 whp) should be pretty easy to hit. Single turbo will make quite a bit more but on stock twins you are easily good for mid 300's at the wheel.
With mild mods
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Old Apr 24, 2007 | 11:47 AM
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Bpu mods will make mid 300's BPU = Intake, exhaust, boost controller, downpipe, boost cut eliminator.
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Old Apr 25, 2007 | 01:22 PM
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if you want a greddy bcc, let me know. i have one sitting in my garage that i will let go cheap.
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