Crank Seal help!
Crank Seal help!
Just pull it out with a pick or hooked tool being very careful not to scratch the crank etc... Try wrapping whatever tool you are using with good quality electrical tape to help prevent scratches/gouges.
Once it's out, take your new seal and reinstall. Make sure you get it seated all the way in and that it is sitting just behind the bevel portion of the block.
The easiest way to seat it would be to apply a small amount of oil around the inside of the seal (NOT the outside) push it in as far as you can by hand then take a large socket that is about the size of the seal, align it square to the seal and gently tap the socket with a mallet to get the seal the rest of the way in. Once it gets to *just* behind the beveled portion of the block you are good, don't put it in too far.
Hope that helps
Once it's out, take your new seal and reinstall. Make sure you get it seated all the way in and that it is sitting just behind the bevel portion of the block.
The easiest way to seat it would be to apply a small amount of oil around the inside of the seal (NOT the outside) push it in as far as you can by hand then take a large socket that is about the size of the seal, align it square to the seal and gently tap the socket with a mallet to get the seal the rest of the way in. Once it gets to *just* behind the beveled portion of the block you are good, don't put it in too far.
Hope that helps
CL Community Team
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 16,603
Likes: 1,402
From: Austin, TX
I have not worked on GS main seal, but this is my experience with seals.
1. Instead of *****-footing with the seal and try to pry it out by leverging it against the shaft, go for the middle with a pick (almost like a screwdriver throught the filter). This approach is clearly destructive for the seal, but believe me you would not be re-using the seal in any case.
2. Instead of engine oil, use brake hydraulic fluid to smear/lubricate the new seal. [this may be a myth but I learnt this from an experienced mechanic].
3. Use the old seal to help press in the new seal. The key is to ensure the new seal goes in evenly, so a 360degree visual access is important. (use mirrors if necessary). For small seal, a socket is a good driver.
Salim
ps: If the myth is wrong please post.
1. Instead of *****-footing with the seal and try to pry it out by leverging it against the shaft, go for the middle with a pick (almost like a screwdriver throught the filter). This approach is clearly destructive for the seal, but believe me you would not be re-using the seal in any case.
2. Instead of engine oil, use brake hydraulic fluid to smear/lubricate the new seal. [this may be a myth but I learnt this from an experienced mechanic].
3. Use the old seal to help press in the new seal. The key is to ensure the new seal goes in evenly, so a 360degree visual access is important. (use mirrors if necessary). For small seal, a socket is a good driver.
Salim
ps: If the myth is wrong please post.
Thread Starter
Driver
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 108
Likes: 0
From: texas
the seal is in TIGHT; picks won't work through the inside nearest the crank & the ring part of the seal seems to have metal inside so I can't stab a pick through the flat ring area of the seal.
Salim, do you mean hammering or pushing it IN with a screwdriver so it becomes crooked?
Salim, do you mean hammering or pushing it IN with a screwdriver so it becomes crooked?
Lead Lap
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 472
Likes: 0
From: vancouver, bc, canada
i use a seal puller... hammer the seal puller thru the face of the seal, and pry...
i usually use grease to lube the inside edge of teh seal, and i tap the seals in with a 3/8" drive 6" long extension...
word of advice... match up the seal visually first... slide the new seal onto the shaft to make sure it matches the old seal before you destry your old seal taking it out..
like the others have said, DO NOT scratch the crank shaft...
i usually use grease to lube the inside edge of teh seal, and i tap the seals in with a 3/8" drive 6" long extension...
word of advice... match up the seal visually first... slide the new seal onto the shaft to make sure it matches the old seal before you destry your old seal taking it out..
like the others have said, DO NOT scratch the crank shaft...
Thread Starter
Driver
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 108
Likes: 0
From: texas
f.y.i. the seal looks to be installed in the oil pump housing. there's no way I'm dropping the pan & taking that out.
Pardesi, thanks for the diagrams but there is no seal retainer to remove from the car. the seal seems to be installed from the front side of the engine.
Pardesi, thanks for the diagrams but there is no seal retainer to remove from the car. the seal seems to be installed from the front side of the engine.
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CL Community Team
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 16,603
Likes: 1,402
From: Austin, TX
the seal is in TIGHT; picks won't work through the inside nearest the crank & the ring part of the seal seems to have metal inside so I can't stab a pick through the flat ring area of the seal.
Salim, do you mean hammering or pushing it IN with a screwdriver so it becomes crooked?
Salim, do you mean hammering or pushing it IN with a screwdriver so it becomes crooked?
Good luck
Salim
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Thread Starter
Driver
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 108
Likes: 0
From: texas
I went down to autozone & looked in the Haynes manual for the sequoia v8. It says to cut the inside of the seal out along the metal w/ an exacto knife & pry out w/ a flat screwdriver. then use grease to lube up.
I polished the crank a little using a fine emory cloth & installed the seal just Barely countersunk. I tried to do it flush but went a hair too far.
thanks guys
I polished the crank a little using a fine emory cloth & installed the seal just Barely countersunk. I tried to do it flush but went a hair too far.
thanks guys
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