To all those with gears and TCs maybe you could share you launch techniques.I recently had my GS at the track and did terrible I just couldnt get her off the line.I have a 2800 stall and 3;73 gears with the trd carrier.Also I have 275/35/18 Nitto 555s that are brand new.My 60ft times were terrible I just sat and roasted them.What are you guys doing to get yours off the line?And what are your 60fts or what should I be shooting for.My previous 60fts were 2.55 and 2.59 .Thanks for any tips.

 

wow, those 60' times really do suck. I mean, really bad.

I'll tell you what I do, then I'll mention what I think you should try.

I have the TC and the gearing. I used to be just the TC. I've always been able to be idling at the light, then STOMP the gas on the last yellow. 90% of the time it just digs in and goes. 8% of the time it might give a little squeal for a few feet and that's it. The other two percent is wheelspin.

My last time out, I was even able to sit at the line with 2000-2400rpm revs (against the convertor) and then nail it on green and I have good traction.
I'm using Pirelli PZero Nero 245x45x17 on stock chrome steel wheels.
I think they are giving me excellent traction AND my local track is well prepped.
My stock 60' times were 2.2-2.3 I think. After TC they were 2.04 and after headers they were 1.96. With the gears I'm now at 1.88-1.94

Your issue sure sounds like a bad track or hard tires. How much air pressue do you run? A street radial tire shouldn't be ran with low pressure. You really want a good 23psi on up to 35psi depending upon track and weather.

Also, with that TRD unit, isn't that thing a "one wheel peel"? If so, thats a serious problem, you'll over power 1 tire every time.

I presume you do a short burnout to clean the tires off. I also presume that you line up so that your rear tires are launching Exactly in the middle of everyone elses rubber burn-out tracks.

You should probably try giving it only half throttle on the launch until you feel the car squat down and then go ahead and give it full throttle after that.

 

Thanks BA I was hoping to hear from you.First off sorry to hear about your header prob.I too have a set from the first run The TRD carrier is posi. and should be helping trac.Thats the reason I got it I knew I was going to have a difficult time getting traction. I was running about 28psi and roasted them off to clean and heat them before running.My tires are a pretty soft compound and brand new.So are you stalling it on the line or just hitting it.Ive been staging at 2800 and stomping it when the light turns which is obviously not the thing to do.I think its instinct to put it to the floor when i see a green light.If youre stalling it what rpm are you at?Also how far are you into the throttle are you?Our mods are very similiar so Ill shoot towards your 60ft times.Although I have the srt intake and Ive heard the stock intake has better pull off the line.Anyhow Thanks

 

I believe you are spinning your street tires too long. You should only spin them enought to clean them. I just get them spinning and let off the brake and then off the gas, making an easy stop before the staging lights.

Also, on street tires you should drive around the water box.

You should also get your tire pressures down to the 22-24 range. Make sure you set that pressure when the tire and rim are cool to the touch.

Anything below 2.0 on street tires is amazing!

 

BigL, Glad to hear that TRD is a posi! Unfortunately, I have no tips for the headers, mine made their noisey appearance at the track so be careful.

Before I got the rear-end, I would idle at the tree and then just stomp on the gas on the last yellow It always produced the same 60' for me, and same times as if I 'stalled' it at the line at any rpm.

Now with the rear-end, I was/am still finding the best launch method. I've tried stalling at 1500 and 2000 with success but I think the *one* time I stalled it up to 2500, I just spun off the line. That was with 'matting' the gas when the light was green.

There is *definitely* something to be said for practicing a launch and not necessarily putting the pedal to the floor instantly. I don't need to do that at a 2000 rpm stall, but maybe I would need to with a higher stall off the line. I reached my goal of 13's so I've stopped going to the track for this year.

IAGS400 does make a few good points. Even if you knew about them, it's good to mention for anyone reading the thread.

I always drive around the water box, I don't even use it actually. I put the VSC in off mode of course, you're doing that right? I put that other ECT button in POWER mode, do about a 3 second burnout, and then let off the brake, and about 1/2 of the gas. I let it burn out for 5-10 feet. Then stage.

Too much heat in a radial will make them slippery.

If anyone has a helper, the absolute best method to determine optimum air pressure in the tire is to do a short burn-out and look for even darkness and correct width of your burnout. Underinflating makes the center less dark, and over inflating would make the sides less dark, or even lay down less rubber than you have tread width.

PM me or update the thread if that 1500-2000 rpm stall/launch works better for you. It'd be good to hear.

 

Track prep is very important. Some tracks are good to great others are poor at best. Instead of doing a long burnout I recommend testing the launch. By this I mean from well behind the line do a practice launch. Of course you drove around the water box so your tires are not wet right?

Many do not realize that even an open differential will power both tires as long as one does not loose traction and slip. I was able to turn 2.20s on my hard compound Yokohamas 225/60-16s with stock everything.

Here is what you should do. Practice launching the car on a remote street. The key is to get the weight transfered before you go full power. Even with weight transfer you may need to use part throttle. I roll into the throttle meaning as I release the brake I take about a full second of continous motion on the pedal before it is full. Each car, tire, surface situation is different. You need to determine how much power and how quickly you can apply it before a hard spin. Perfect would be to spin the tires about 1 rotation. Target should be as hard as possible with no spin. It is a matter of learning to feel how your car is responding.

With a 2800 stall you car will pull nicely from 2000rpm. I suggest brake torquing to this rpm (NOT LONG AS THIS MAKES HEAT = BAD). Brake torque for just a second or so to your target RPM and then roll off the brake and roll on the throttle. Feel the weight transfer as the back of the car squats down. Increase your roll off roll on until you are at traction limit. Try different brake torque RPMs LEARN YOUR CAR. Trial and error and feel and experience will allow you to maximize your combination at the track.

You can of course also go with a set of drag radials but until you learn the above procedure you will not be able to maximize those either.

Good luck.

 

Thanks guys.Heres an update No I dont use the water box and I always clean and heat up my tires.I run about 26psi.Ive been working on my 60ft and have gone from 2.59 to a 2.1 There is still alot of room for improvement as i am still roasting them off the line.Im shooting for a 1.8 and think its obtainable.Ill kepp you all posted I usually run on Tues. so Ill keep you all informed.Btw I shaved .7 of my 1/4 in 4 runs so shes getting closer.Thanks guys