Valve cover gasket replacement & spark plug tube seals
05-08-18, 10:00 AM
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Valve cover gasket replacement & spark plug tube seals
Hi, I just recently joined this forum. I need some answers about my valve cover gasket replacement. I was told by a shop I need to replace the tube seals for the spark plugs. I saw some forum posts where they said that it’s not required, since the spark plugs aren’t in the valve covers. At least that’s what I understood from the post. Today, I called Lexus to ask for some tube seals and they said it’s $26-$27 dollars EACH and I need 6 of them. Does that sound right? Or am I getting ripped off? Yesterday I talked to a guy who was kind of rude saying I needed 8 of them and that they cost $16 each. The guy I talked to today said the reason the price changed to $26-$27 is because he got my VIN number from a previous purchase I made and that was the price that was set for my car. What do I do? Is this a scam? Thanks for your time.
Edit: My car is a 1993 SC300 five-speed manual with the original engine to my knowledge.
Edit: My car is a 1993 SC300 five-speed manual with the original engine to my knowledge.
The following users liked this post:
mjsmom1974 (08-22-18)
05-09-18, 12:27 AM
#2
I don't know what to make of those statements from your dealer about "tube seals". I may just be unfamiliar with what they're referring to with a different terminology than I'm used to. I'm not sure I'd call what they're telling you a scam so much as them possibly not being very familiar with the 2JZ-GE Non-VVT-i engine since it's getting to be somewhat vintage now.
Nonetheless on 2JZ-GE's valve cover gaskets leaking with high mileage is a common issue. I replaced mine around 215k or so. It doesn't matter if you have an automatic or 5-speed manual. The valve cover gaskets are the same for all 1992-1997 SC300 models. I never replaced "tube seals". The 2JZ-GE has two top spark plug covers that you remove with an allen wrench and then under those and the plug wires there are some metal guides that are bolted down with the valve covers that are more or less a dividing tray between the deep spark plug holes and the plug wire area that stabilize the plug wire ends so that they do not move around.
The OEM spark plug wires themselves are the only sealing part that I can think of between the top of the spark plugs and everything else.
Only use OEM Toyota valve cover gaskets:
1121346020 valve cover gasket 2JZ-GE (INTAKE SIDE)
1121446011 valve cover gasket 2JZ-GE (EXHAUST SIDE)
The 1992-1997 SC300 TSRM covers the entire procedure step by step in great detail if you want to do this yourself. That file should be linked in our SC300/400 sticky section. It's not hard to do but it is tedious and time consuming due to having to take many things off the correct way in order to get to the valve covers themselves.
While you're in there you might as well do the spark plugs and wires if they're sufficiently old (required at least every 60k just like the timing belt). Only use OEM-spec NGK or Denso plugs of the Platinum or Iridium variety.
Click on this link to view it directly from youtube's site. The poster lists plenty of information in the description.
However I do recommend referring to the factory service manual for any work like this.
Stripping and repainting (or powder coating) your valve covers is an optional cosmetic step but after 20+ years it does make them look considerably better.
Come to think of it, perhaps one other seal type that can be replaced are the tiny think rubber ones on those trays that divide the spark plug wires from the spark plug holes in the cylinder head. But those would be an optional thing to buy. I've never heard them called "tube seals" but perhaps that's what your dealer is referring to.
Nonetheless on 2JZ-GE's valve cover gaskets leaking with high mileage is a common issue. I replaced mine around 215k or so. It doesn't matter if you have an automatic or 5-speed manual. The valve cover gaskets are the same for all 1992-1997 SC300 models. I never replaced "tube seals". The 2JZ-GE has two top spark plug covers that you remove with an allen wrench and then under those and the plug wires there are some metal guides that are bolted down with the valve covers that are more or less a dividing tray between the deep spark plug holes and the plug wire area that stabilize the plug wire ends so that they do not move around.
The OEM spark plug wires themselves are the only sealing part that I can think of between the top of the spark plugs and everything else.
Only use OEM Toyota valve cover gaskets:
1121346020 valve cover gasket 2JZ-GE (INTAKE SIDE)
1121446011 valve cover gasket 2JZ-GE (EXHAUST SIDE)
The 1992-1997 SC300 TSRM covers the entire procedure step by step in great detail if you want to do this yourself. That file should be linked in our SC300/400 sticky section. It's not hard to do but it is tedious and time consuming due to having to take many things off the correct way in order to get to the valve covers themselves.
While you're in there you might as well do the spark plugs and wires if they're sufficiently old (required at least every 60k just like the timing belt). Only use OEM-spec NGK or Denso plugs of the Platinum or Iridium variety.
Click on this link to view it directly from youtube's site. The poster lists plenty of information in the description.
However I do recommend referring to the factory service manual for any work like this.
Stripping and repainting (or powder coating) your valve covers is an optional cosmetic step but after 20+ years it does make them look considerably better.
Come to think of it, perhaps one other seal type that can be replaced are the tiny think rubber ones on those trays that divide the spark plug wires from the spark plug holes in the cylinder head. But those would be an optional thing to buy. I've never heard them called "tube seals" but perhaps that's what your dealer is referring to.
Last edited by KahnBB6; 05-09-18 at 12:38 AM.
The following users liked this post:
mjsmom1974 (08-22-18)
05-11-18, 07:36 PM
#3
Pole Position
Funnily enough i have a valve cover leak and i was going to do the job but im intimidated by that TB removal lol. But this is what i ordered and i fear i may have gotten the wrong thing just because i dont have the set for the spark plug cover. this is the current gasket i have on hand https://gyazo.com/aa714defed622b1bbb6cc5355997992a and is that enough or should i really re order the set that has all the rubber? and as soon as i can figure out this leak i will hopefully tackle the timing belt in my driveway.
05-11-18, 07:45 PM
#4
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Funnily enough i have a valve cover leak and i was going to do the job but im intimidated by that TB removal lol. But this is what i ordered and i fear i may have gotten the wrong thing just because i dont have the set for the spark plug cover. this is the current gasket i have on hand https://gyazo.com/aa714defed622b1bbb6cc5355997992a and is that enough or should i really re order the set that has all the rubber? and as soon as i can figure out this leak i will hopefully tackle the timing belt in my driveway.
05-12-18, 01:21 AM
#5
^^ Agreed on the EGR being a pain to remove. For the lower bolts that affix the EGR pipe to the cylinder head you need to run a socket flexible elbow and some LONG extensions to get your socket wrench to connect up near the shock tower. The big EGR pipe nut is 32mm and requires 47 ft-lbs as per the TSRM. Get a 32mm crows foot adapter in 3/8-inch drive and use this calculator to figure the correct amount of torque setting for your torque wrench with that adapter: (http://www.cncexpo.com/TorqueAdapter.aspx)
The EGR valve's connection to the Y-manifold requires you to remove the two hex studs if you do not remove the EGR pipe. Those are 5mm on each end. Honestly now having done it that way in the past I would just recommend removing the EGR pipe and then the EGR valve to get that area clear to remove the Y-manifold and gain unrestricted access to your valve covers.
The EGR valve's connection to the Y-manifold requires you to remove the two hex studs if you do not remove the EGR pipe. Those are 5mm on each end. Honestly now having done it that way in the past I would just recommend removing the EGR pipe and then the EGR valve to get that area clear to remove the Y-manifold and gain unrestricted access to your valve covers.
The following users liked this post:
mjsmom1974 (08-22-18)
The following users liked this post:
KahnBB6 (05-14-18)
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
hurrikane
RX - 2nd Gen (2004-2009)
7
02-28-17 08:51 PM
Aron9000
Performance & Maintenance
14
11-09-16 10:22 AM
mabmab1993
ES - 1st to 4th Gen (1990-2006)
2
02-26-12 06:54 AM