Damage on block mating surface
#1
Driver
Thread Starter
Damage on block mating surface
I'm currently in the process of doing a head gasket change and im cleaning the mating surface and I notice these areas that look like possible corosion or something.
Is this normal and is it ok to proceed with the head gasket change or should i send it to the machine shop?
thanks
Is this normal and is it ok to proceed with the head gasket change or should i send it to the machine shop?
thanks
#3
Driver
Thread Starter
Thanks thats what i was thinking, it sucks cuz I only see it around the first piston and others look good. Since I'm going to have to dissasemble the block now what bearings do you guys recommend. I guess I should have the crank polished while Im at it haha.
#4
Driver
Thread Starter
I found a Machine shop here in Phoenix by the name of Akina Motorsportz. Looks like they specialize on 2jz's and other imports so that's a plus. They quoted me about $400 to deck the head and the block, hone the cylinder walls and polish the crank does this seem like a good deal? I have never had machine work done before.
Thanks.
Thanks.
#6
Driver
Thread Starter
Is polishing the crank worth it if the motor did not have any bearing issues and it all looks good?
Should I hone the cylinder walls even if the cross hatching is still visible?
Don't want to cut corners but I do want to make sure I'm getting my money worth in the things I'm doing for this build. I am going NA-T by the way.
Thanks for the reply.
#7
Instructor
iTrader: (2)
Yeah I'm pretty sure I'm going to have both machined I haven't checked the head as of yet. I will do that tonight and will update. The $400 is with me rounding it up, it comes out to about $375 before tax and that's for the decking the block, milling the head, honing the cylinder walls and polishing the crank. Does this still seem steep? What would you say is an average price for the same work done? I will probably check a few other places just liked the idea that Akina Motorsportz seems familiar with our motors.
Is polishing the crank worth it if the motor did not have any bearing issues and it all looks good?
Should I hone the cylinder walls even if the cross hatching is still visible?
Don't want to cut corners but I do want to make sure I'm getting my money worth in the things I'm doing for this build. I am going NA-T by the way.
Thanks for the reply.
Is polishing the crank worth it if the motor did not have any bearing issues and it all looks good?
Should I hone the cylinder walls even if the cross hatching is still visible?
Don't want to cut corners but I do want to make sure I'm getting my money worth in the things I'm doing for this build. I am going NA-T by the way.
Thanks for the reply.
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#8
Driver
Thread Starter
1. Leave the crank alone. Any reason you suggest not getting it polished?
2. Don't hone the cylinders unless you're replacing the rings. I plan on getting new rings if I hone it.
3. If you are replacing the rings or pistons ask "do you have a torque plate for this?" If the answer is "No" or "What?" go somewhere else. Will do, thanks for the heads up
4. Milling the block or head affects the position of the camshafts shortening the distance to the crank pulley. I don't know how much (in degrees) but since the cam pulleys are not adjustable the cams will no longer be in stock position. Will keep this in mind.
5. for a turbo install replace the pistons to lower compression. I plan on doing NA-T with stock internals since it will be able to handle my power goals of about 500whp. However I will lower compression with a different HG.
6. if this is a VVTi replace the rods. It is non VVTI
2. Don't hone the cylinders unless you're replacing the rings. I plan on getting new rings if I hone it.
3. If you are replacing the rings or pistons ask "do you have a torque plate for this?" If the answer is "No" or "What?" go somewhere else. Will do, thanks for the heads up
4. Milling the block or head affects the position of the camshafts shortening the distance to the crank pulley. I don't know how much (in degrees) but since the cam pulleys are not adjustable the cams will no longer be in stock position. Will keep this in mind.
5. for a turbo install replace the pistons to lower compression. I plan on doing NA-T with stock internals since it will be able to handle my power goals of about 500whp. However I will lower compression with a different HG.
6. if this is a VVTi replace the rods. It is non VVTI
Like I said I want it to be done right and not cut corners however I want my moneys worth.
Thanks for the reply.
#9
Lexus Fanatic
iTrader: (7)
Your GE 10:1 pistons are strong enough for 500 hp (JM2¢).
However, you will develop knock at a lower boost, lower spark, and richer mixture than the GTE 8.5:1, and these setting are your safety margin. The head gasket change alone is better but isn't enough since the GE dome volume is larger.
However, you will develop knock at a lower boost, lower spark, and richer mixture than the GTE 8.5:1, and these setting are your safety margin. The head gasket change alone is better but isn't enough since the GE dome volume is larger.
I have been at 600rwhp on 93oct since 2010 and still on original block and I use ge block with GTE head gasket and my measured compression ratio is around 9:4:1. Comes down to supporting parts , quality of ECU and most important, tuner abilities ...your tuner can make or break any setup
#10
Driver
Thread Starter
Actually ge pistons and GTE are made of exact same castings inclusive of rangelands. Toyota 2jz OEM pistons can handle upwards of 800 hp . Its the rods and rod bolts that need attention especially when these newer small frame turbo are being used with e85 as they are making torque alot quicker which the OEM rods would be on borrowed time .
I have been at 600rwhp on 93oct since 2010 and still on original block and I use ge block with GTE head gasket and my measured compression ratio is around 9:4:1. Comes down to supporting parts , quality of ECU and most important, tuner abilities ...your tuner can make or break any setup
I have been at 600rwhp on 93oct since 2010 and still on original block and I use ge block with GTE head gasket and my measured compression ratio is around 9:4:1. Comes down to supporting parts , quality of ECU and most important, tuner abilities ...your tuner can make or break any setup
#11
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (2)
NA or boost?
New rings equals hone job and you need to remove that ridge up top before yanking the pistons out.
Crank polish is cheap like $30... Likely worth it. It may cost more if they mag it and clean it.
Some of your fees are cleaning and inspection if done in a better shop. But still $400 seems steep compared to these parts.
What do you intend to do with the head? Was this a core motor or DD that needs freshened? How many miles on it? What is your goal?
New rings equals hone job and you need to remove that ridge up top before yanking the pistons out.
Crank polish is cheap like $30... Likely worth it. It may cost more if they mag it and clean it.
Some of your fees are cleaning and inspection if done in a better shop. But still $400 seems steep compared to these parts.
What do you intend to do with the head? Was this a core motor or DD that needs freshened? How many miles on it? What is your goal?
#12
Driver
Thread Starter
NA or boost?
New rings equals hone job and you need to remove that ridge up top before yanking the pistons out.
Crank polish is cheap like $30... Likely worth it. It may cost more if they mag it and clean it.
Some of your fees are cleaning and inspection if done in a better shop. But still $400 seems steep compared to these parts.
What do you intend to do with the head? Was this a core motor or DD that needs freshened? How many miles on it? What is your goal?
New rings equals hone job and you need to remove that ridge up top before yanking the pistons out.
Crank polish is cheap like $30... Likely worth it. It may cost more if they mag it and clean it.
Some of your fees are cleaning and inspection if done in a better shop. But still $400 seems steep compared to these parts.
What do you intend to do with the head? Was this a core motor or DD that needs freshened? How many miles on it? What is your goal?
How do you recommend removing the ridge on the top is it just carbon build up?
Do I need to hone it if it stills has cross hatching and good compression or worth it since I already have it torn down?
It's was a DD with 65k miles on it. I just want it done right since I'm this far into the motor but want to keep stock pistons and rods but plan on doing ARP hardware and updating head with new springs, valve seals. I already got a new oil pump, water pump and gaskets/seals.
#13
Lexus Fanatic
iTrader: (7)
With a 65k motor ,in our world we call this a virgin motor. For your power goals which I consider modest, I wouldn't bother with doing any bottomend work . When I boosted mine in 2007 I had 92k on block , today same motor is at 146k and running the 600rwhp on 93oct..
If one can avoid doing anything other than OEM I recommend OEM as I've seen countless built motors here in south Florida (which south Florida seems to be the boosting capital as down here they'll throw a turbo on a lawnmower , lol) if not done right they smoke and have excessive blow by . Ive seen spun bearings due to incorrect clearances etc. unless you are planning to run turbo like the new gen2 6266 dbb or 6466which are fast spooling and quick torque making , I personally would stay all OEM .
If one can avoid doing anything other than OEM I recommend OEM as I've seen countless built motors here in south Florida (which south Florida seems to be the boosting capital as down here they'll throw a turbo on a lawnmower , lol) if not done right they smoke and have excessive blow by . Ive seen spun bearings due to incorrect clearances etc. unless you are planning to run turbo like the new gen2 6266 dbb or 6466which are fast spooling and quick torque making , I personally would stay all OEM .
#15
Driver
Thread Starter
Update: I got the pistons out did not need a ridge reamer as there actually was no lip on any of the cylinder walls it simply wiped off. Bearings I think look good but im no pro at this, looks like there is a coating on the bearings like a white film is this normal. Do yall think the bearings look good?
Last edited by suprasoup; 12-08-17 at 03:15 PM.