1JZPWRD

iTrader: (59)

This is why i love this forum. This is alot of great info on oil breakdown and wear. I will continue to change around 5k or so with a Wix filter. Only time will tell on the oil color and breakdown.

MNSC3

iTrader: (1)

I've used Mobil 1 for over 20 years, back when it was $3.49 qt.. My last oil change before storage on the SC3, I used 50% Mobil 1 HM and Mobil 5000 HM 5-30w. My car has 142,000 and I'm easing it into synthetics.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Thats pretty often man, maybe every other week or something. I switch around to different oils, been using alot of Mobil 1 synthetic, but I always always use a Purolator Pure One Oil Filter. they have really good filtration and the grip on the outside is great for those of us who still believe a oil filter should be hand tightened and removed by hand. If you cannot break it free by hand, its too tight.

greens14

iTrader: (28)

I dont know; ive always been a customer of mobile 1 fully synthetic in all my past cars but upon the second oil change ( i had some spare 10w30 left over which ive used on the first change) i've heard what sounded to be valve tick.

normally id prep an open weekend for valve adjustment but apparently im not the only person who has been experiencing similar (louder valvetrains) with mobile 1. not sure what to use next but im definitely steering clear of royal purple with other peoples bad experiences.


what are your suggestions besides the german castrol which i plan to try?

btw you guys are set on using a 0-30? im in arizona so tempts range from 60 on a cold day to 100

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

the car normally calls for 5w30, if you are experiencing any ticking on start up you should go back to 5w30 from 10w30. if you get the ticking still after the car is fully warm, then its not the first number on the oil. I would only use 10w30 in the summer, if even at all, and change it out before winter hits. Your climate would be good for just running 5w30 year round to be honest.

99SC42

iTrader: (44)

I just wanted to be on the safe side because the GE doesn't have an oil cooler and i wasn't running one on my car.

TechGreek

iTrader: (4)

What about down here in Shreveport, LA - temps range from 30* to 105*? I've been running 5W-30 as I read quickly on bob is the oil guy it was usable for the high temps and low temps and best weight to keep the head lubricated on cold starts.

lilSCsteve

iTrader: (71)

Great information guys...it's going to my book-marked favorites. Thx for sharing!

LunaVyohr

As I've said already, under normal conditions, your engine wants an oil thickness of 10 cS at all times. Especially on start-up. Presently, no oil that you can buy off the shelves comes close to this when cool. However, at 75 F when cool, 0W-30 synthetic will have a thickness of 40 cS. This is much better on start-up than 10W-30 synthetic, which has a thickness of 75 cS (100 cS if you're using mineral oil).

Both oils will have the same thickness of 10 cS at 212 F (most engine's normal operating temperature). So yes, in Arizona, you will be fine using 0W-30.

If you want to try something else besides GC, you could try Amsoil, or Redline. Redline is the most expensive at around $10.50 a quart, but it's about the best oil that you can buy off the shelves (or online).

If you experience increased noise with a thinner oil, this doesn't mean use an oil that's too thick. It means repair your engine.

On Mobil 1: they used to sell high quality Group IV synthetics, but they have sadly gone the route of hydro-cracked Group III's while charging ridiculous prices. I am not a fan of Mobil 1.