moffutt

I just finished replacing my timung belt/ water pump, and after checking the marks on the engine block and camshaft pulley everytrhing lines up perfectly. If I rotate the camshaft pulley twice all of the marks l;ine up perfectly again. The cam pulley marks match the marks on the engine block, and the camshaft pulley itself is directly on the 0 of the camshaft cover.

When I start the car it sounds like it is running on one distributor (I have had this happen in the past) and has no power, I checked the spark on both sides and both sides are getting spark. When I try to run it uphill out of my garage, very steep, the car will not have enough power to go up the driveway and if I try to accelerate I can hear it backfiring under the car.

I went back read the instructions four or five times to try to be sure I had all of my marks lined up correctly.

The left side camshaft is sort of spring loaded and did make about a quarter turn in a counter-clockwise direction at one time during the repair.

Any help would be appreciated.

Sullen0313

sounds like you have a tooth off somewhere. did you use a wrench and move the cam that spun back into position? did you release the tensioner on the timing belt? things can "look" good to the untrained eye, and still be wrong. i'm not trying to be a ****, just saying.

moffutt

Any and all help is appreciated, believe me. The pulley spun while the belt was off and I was replacing the water pump. I moved it back so that it was lined up with the marks on the engine block before installing the new belt.

Following the instructions I originally installed the belt on the camshaft pulley with the mark on the pulley at 6 o'clock. then after putting on the balancer I set the pulley to TDC (0) and then installed the belt over the left and right pulleys. At that point the lines on the timing belt matched perfectly with the cams, so I then installed the tensioner. Gave it a couple of manual turns and everything was still lined up.

1JZPWRD

iTrader: (59)

I still believe you have some things not lined up just right. The trouble I had was the Exhaust cam side of the motor or the left side, was still one tooth off. This caused the motor to spit, sputter, under load or at half throttle. I had to tear it back down, remove the tensioner and realign everything again. This time I had turned the exhaust cam one tooth under the line of perfect, then installed the tensioner. Once installed the tensioner brought the exhaust side cam perfect or staright across the marks. Been good ever since. Make sure your cam sensors are plugged in, both sides, and recheck the wires and assure they are not on the wrong place on the distrubuter. That could also cause some bucking, missin, no power. Check this link. and report back.. Hope this helps you mane.
http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/engine/timingbelt.html

moffutt

I should have mentioned I was going out of town for a few days. SO back in the garage tore it back down to get the belt off and the tensioner pulled. Here are some pictures of exactly where the cams are in relation to the camshaft pulley. They still looked lined up perfectly to me.

Camshaft Pulley


Right


Left

ICONYQ

iTrader: (3)

Are you sure you are at TDC and not in the 1/2 turn. Like you said you needed 2 turns of the crank... Are you sure cylinder 1 is all the way up.

ihiryu

iTrader: (7)

I agree with ICONYQ,

the only other thing you might have broken a camshaft. Seriously, the 1uz will still run with only one cam gear. This actually happened to the 1uz I put into my MKIII, I had a broken cam, and the car ran on for weeks, with no power, and the rev's wouldn't go above 4K.

Might be worth a look. My cam actually broke right after the first cam cap

moffutt

I appreciate everyone's help. Well after my last post I went back into the garage and put the timing belt back on and gave it two revolutions and everthing lined up exactly as it had before. I figured I would just put back the minimum amount of stuff and see if I could get it to start just off the battery so I could look at it.

I am only posting this because hopefully it may help someone in the future and not to display my utter lack of common sense.

When I took the car apart the first time I tried to put all of the pieces down exactly as they had come out of the car, well it turns out I had turned one of the rotors 180 degrees, believe it or not you can (although not easily) put the rotor in 180 degrees to the wrong. So I put the left rotor in and looked at it and thought, "That's strange it was pointing straight up last time." So I took it back out and looked at it closely and it is definately apparent which way the rotor 'should' go in. So after assembling to the point where I could start it, it turned right over and ran exactly as it had previously (before I started this project). Turned it off re-assembled and viola one successful timing belt change.

Thank you all again.

ihiryu

iTrader: (7)

LOL! Good thing it was something easy for you!

moffutt

I just wanted to add a couple of things. The directions posted above are excellent but there are a few differences between the sc400 and the ls400.

1) You must loosen the air conditioning compressor. One bolt under the left coil and one bolt from underneath just above the oil filter.

2) The fan is hydraulic so when you go to remove the hydraulic pump be prepared for fluid.

3) I was able to do the change without removing the radiator, I had it completely disconnected so the two bolts wouldn't have been that big a deal but it was one less thing.

4) When putting the harmonic balancer back on it has to line up with the notch on the camshaft pulley which was a trick when everything was dry, and I tried to line it up and then tap it back on with a hammer. That didn't work so well. So I ended up coating the inside of the harmonic balancer and the outside of the camshaft with vaseline and it slid right on with no problems didn't even need to tap it.

Hope that helps a little.