oldManTan

nope, i never did that, i just loosened that "plate" and tucked the harness above the wheel in the fender hole. ziptied it to some random hole and done.

LEXOWINO

Not lowered and I will be doing the same thing only using metal zip ties instead of plastic.

Some of my wires are exposed. WTF

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

plastic is better, less chance of it cutting into the wires with vibration over time.

bags29

So I installed coilovers last week. Drove on them one night to test them out after slammed and rubbed through wiring harness in the wheel well and two wires rubbed together and my starter started cranking uncontrollably, as well as the engine started shutting on and off. This happened simultaneously. I immediately turged off the car and pushed it to a parking lot. Then I I taped up the two wires that were exposed and removed the harness protector and replaced it with fleX hosing and cable ties to secure it up out of the way of the wheel. Then went to start the car and nothing. Everything works but when I turn the key to start it there is no sound at all.

I checked all the fuses, tried jumping the car, tried reseting the alarm system. NOTHING WORKED.

Any ideas????

oldManTan

fix the wires, there's probably at least one broken and just taping them up won't fix it, you'll need to replace some wire. check the starter by sticking a paperclip in these 2 ports on the starter relay spot.

bags29

So the starter works. Now to find the wire or fuse that is bad

t2d2

iTrader: (8)

Note to self: Never buy a lowered SC again. This has turned into quite the frustrating project, although it at least gave me the incentive to open up the harness and inspect the damage to the wires from previous owners, a couple of which were too significant to leave as-is.

After routing everything up through the engine bay, all nicely wrapped up, I had a couple inches too little left to reach the foot well plugins... Without them fully wrapped, I could free up an inch or so of slack and get at least one of the big connectors plugged in.

I was a bit nervous about that at the start, because there was basically no slack before rerouting.

So, I've pulled it back through the washer bottle hole to return to the stock routing. To the people who have suggested just tucking it up higher, how do you do that when the spot above the tire that's most likely to rub doesn't have a "higher" to tuck it?

I think I've taken a step backwards by going from all the wires spread out thin in the white tray, to a thick bundle that can't go any higher than that tray sat in the first place. The tray was pretty beat up, so I don't think that height is high enough. Do I have to cut an opening up above to tuck it higher?

t2d2

iTrader: (8)

I re-wrapped the bundle through that area, making the three white connectors' individual bundles lay flat alongside each other. That allows it to sit a tiny bit higher, but as you can see from the side view, it's still not any higher than the lowest part of the metal.



I have the connectors plugged in now, but there's not a whole lot of slack to push the harness higher even if I cut a slit in the top of the wheel well.

joe diego

iTrader: (3)

EzeSc300

So I rewired the harness through the engine bay, and all lights were on m, started fine. But as soon as I tried to start my engine, the car dies and all the lights go.
The battery is fine. But I can’t figure out what it could be