How do I remove the alternator connector?!?!?!
#1
Pole Position
Thread Starter
How do I remove the alternator connector?!?!?!
Jesus Christ!!!!!!!!!!! I have everything on the alternator off except the alternator connector...
The alternator wire is the one that looks like that metal that goes to battery terminals.
The ALTERNATOR CONNECTOR is a cable with a rubber boot covering it an I don't know how to remove it!!! What the hell do I have to do!??! I can't get any leverage on it and I don't even know if I'm supposed to just yank on it or what?!?!?!
FOCK!!!
The alternator wire is the one that looks like that metal that goes to battery terminals.
The ALTERNATOR CONNECTOR is a cable with a rubber boot covering it an I don't know how to remove it!!! What the hell do I have to do!??! I can't get any leverage on it and I don't even know if I'm supposed to just yank on it or what?!?!?!
FOCK!!!
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TrillLyric (06-24-22)
#7
Pole Position
Thread Starter
I still cant figure out how to take off that damn black connector...
What the **** do I have to do? Someone was referrign to these 10mm nuts around the connector? I don't see them. There are these other nuts, but they're not 10mm and they don't look like they have anything to do with the connector.
Jesus...
What the **** do I have to do? Someone was referrign to these 10mm nuts around the connector? I don't see them. There are these other nuts, but they're not 10mm and they don't look like they have anything to do with the connector.
Jesus...
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#8
Pit Crew
Tab on the connector
Deep breaths, Marcus.
If the 400 is the same as my 300 -
You probably know most of this already, but ... there are two connections - one is labeled "alternator wire" in your first diagram, and that's the one with the boot over the nut on a stud, which is what I think LEX_MAN was referring to. It's on the side of the alternator, 12mm on my original, 13mm on my replacement. That one's easy, the boot wiggles off and there's the nut. If that's the one you're struggling with, the boot really does come off, with just fingers. Mine seems to have a split at its end opposite the wire, so the sides move apart and it comes off the nut/stud.
The "alternator connector" is the other one, on the back of the alternator. On the 300 it's well hidden under a radiator hose. There are three prongs in a recess in the alternator, and the connector slips in the recess over the prongs. It clicks in place (no nuts), and you have to depress a tab on the connector, then pull to get it off. On the 300, I used a screwdriver to press the tab from one side (top) of the radiator hose, and pulled with my other hand from under the radiator hose.
It's depressing that tab that does the trick. Use an inspection mirror and a flashlight to investigate the connector.
Good luck.
Jonas
If the 400 is the same as my 300 -
You probably know most of this already, but ... there are two connections - one is labeled "alternator wire" in your first diagram, and that's the one with the boot over the nut on a stud, which is what I think LEX_MAN was referring to. It's on the side of the alternator, 12mm on my original, 13mm on my replacement. That one's easy, the boot wiggles off and there's the nut. If that's the one you're struggling with, the boot really does come off, with just fingers. Mine seems to have a split at its end opposite the wire, so the sides move apart and it comes off the nut/stud.
The "alternator connector" is the other one, on the back of the alternator. On the 300 it's well hidden under a radiator hose. There are three prongs in a recess in the alternator, and the connector slips in the recess over the prongs. It clicks in place (no nuts), and you have to depress a tab on the connector, then pull to get it off. On the 300, I used a screwdriver to press the tab from one side (top) of the radiator hose, and pulled with my other hand from under the radiator hose.
It's depressing that tab that does the trick. Use an inspection mirror and a flashlight to investigate the connector.
Good luck.
Jonas
#9
alternator connector
I know this is an old thread but I have to vent here.....I HATE automotive connectors. They usually have a stupid tab to retain them but sometimes you have to press it, sometimes spread it and sometimes have to stick a pin somewhere to get them to release. And usually there is not enough space to get leverage to do it. A little more investment in them would save a lot of time in the shop. As an engineer, I'd never design anything so sleezy. Plus, they skimp on the wire harness......hey guys in the design room.. how about giving us a little more slack so we can move stuff around.
I've wasted hours trying to get a hard-to-reach connector loose.
I have a new approach, which is to cut the damn things off and solder extensions with high quality teflon wire, covering with heat shrinkable tubing and waterproofing gel or high temp silicone. It has to be high temp silicone otherwise it will actually seep into connections. I let the connector stay in place and splice in a high quality one which screws together. Then I dress the slack to keep it secure. Just like I do on my airplane.
I've wasted hours trying to get a hard-to-reach connector loose.
I have a new approach, which is to cut the damn things off and solder extensions with high quality teflon wire, covering with heat shrinkable tubing and waterproofing gel or high temp silicone. It has to be high temp silicone otherwise it will actually seep into connections. I let the connector stay in place and splice in a high quality one which screws together. Then I dress the slack to keep it secure. Just like I do on my airplane.
#11
Driver School Candidate
Alternator connector tab
SC300 1995: Just replaced the alternator myself 2 weeks ago, same thing happen, I grabbed & pinch the tab down and the darn thing broke (it was kind of brittle since it was original alternator).
So I had to grab it firmly squeezed on sides & move it up & down & pull the connector straight out. After I installed the new alternator, I plugged connector back in & it lock back in, fits snug.
Even though it won't come off without pulling, I am trying to find out if they sell the connector so I can splice with the old wiring. ( I like to keep everything original)
Also replaced new shroud fan ( there's trick to it to remove so you won't break the tab from the shroud fan #2). plus replace a new undercover shield.
* Anybody know if the connector can be bought by it self without buying the complete harness?
#12
Lead Lap
iTrader: (8)
SC300 1995: Just replaced the alternator myself 2 weeks ago, same thing happen, I grabbed & pinch the tab down and the darn thing broke (it was kind of brittle since it was original alternator).
So I had to grab it firmly squeezed on sides & move it up & down & pull the connector straight out. After I installed the new alternator, I plugged connector back in & it lock back in, fits snug.
Even though it won't come off without pulling, I am trying to find out if they sell the connector so I can splice with the old wiring. ( I like to keep everything original)
Also replaced new shroud fan ( there's trick to it to remove so you won't break the tab from the shroud fan #2). plus replace a new undercover shield.
* Anybody know if the connector can be bought by it self without buying the complete harness?
So I had to grab it firmly squeezed on sides & move it up & down & pull the connector straight out. After I installed the new alternator, I plugged connector back in & it lock back in, fits snug.
Even though it won't come off without pulling, I am trying to find out if they sell the connector so I can splice with the old wiring. ( I like to keep everything original)
Also replaced new shroud fan ( there's trick to it to remove so you won't break the tab from the shroud fan #2). plus replace a new undercover shield.
* Anybody know if the connector can be bought by it self without buying the complete harness?
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vanish24 (03-16-17)
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