sc1jzgte

Ive installed a couple tranny's with a push type clutch before and have not had any problems so i confidentally just dove into the R154 without really knowing anything, but doing this w58 to r154 change seemed like a different ordeal...


Basically first i installed the pressure plate and clutch to the flywheel on the engine, then i put the tranny on. Then after that i slid the clutch fork in through the opening in the bell housing.

Everything looks like its good, except it was strangely difficult to get the transmission on (this was outside the car on the ground with 2 guys, but we couldnt push it on flush) there was like a half inch cap we couldnt overcome. Well I got the bolt to thread a couple threads and I was able to forcefully bolt the tranny to close the gap.

I have a few things to do before the car runs again... but i am getting "cold feet" on my work... I coincidentally came across manual instructions for this job, and it says this...

place the clutch and pressure plate on the shaft of the tranny, then mount the tranny to the engine, ---- then use the opening in the bell housing to bolt the pressure plate to the flywheel ----- then slide the clutch fork in.


That doesnt make sense to me, it seems this would be harder to put the pressure plate bolts on that way after the tranny is on. So I am trying to figure out why everyone would do it that way.. and is that reason a good enough reason for me to take it out and redo it?!


My question to those who have done this is, do you think I will be alright, or can you pinpoint to me what is wrong with my way?

Thanks

TroySC300

iTrader: (1)

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=355167

sc1jzgte

Thanks but I am still not reassured by that thread, it doesnt cover the specific steps for installing the tranny. According to the diagrams and such my install makes sense.... but then why would the manual say to install it differently, and he also removed a spacer behind the flywheel on his thread and I didnt!

But I have a 1jz/w58 and he did a 2jz/auto... now I have another question.. anybody have an answer from hands on experience?

dinhnerz

Either way is fine. Normally they would install it like you did. With a dummy shaft in place and bolt down the pressure plate to the flywheel and install the transmission.

With method from the manual no dummy shaft is needed while the clutch and pressure plate is on the transmission then install transmission and bolt it down to the flywheel which I believe is alot more time consuming.

sc1jzgte

also any comments on him removing a spacer behind the flywheel on his thread, is that because he had a 2jz/auto and i had a 1jz/w58... anybody have more details on this spacer? why and what cars have it....

My 1jz had an auto on it and i just swapped over to the w58 and saw no spacer... but i wasnt looking to remove anything either at the time.

craaaazzy

iTrader: (4)

i believe the manual says to just slide the PP and clutch disk on to the spline, then install tranny, then bolt up PP up. Not sure why but i'm sure toyota knew what they were doing when they designed it (i'm also used to the way you did it but hey, instructions are instructions unless it's proven otherwise).

as for the spacer, i actually was like u and didn't really pay attention but i think it's for the auto guys.

2jzlex

iTrader: (3)

dinhnerz: False

craaaazy:Correct

Here's why, simplicity. Because of the design of the clutch, doing it your way you have to stab the transmission through the T/O and THEN into the pilot bearing. If you assymble it all on the shaft, you only have to stab the shaft into the pilot bearing. It also keeps everything aligned. I honestly don't know how you got the angle to get it through both of them..


sc1jzgte:

1. Assymble the T/O bearing
2. Install it onto the Pressure plate and secure it w/ the snap rings on the back side
3. Slide the T/O and PP assymbley onto the input shaft
4. Slide the disc onto the shaft
5. Now stab the transmission
6. Install the clutch fork
7. Install the slave cylinder
8. Tighten the PP bolts in a cross sectional pattern by turning the flywheel, I just used a long flat head screw driver to turn the splines. I want to say it was 45 ft lbs. but dbl check that in the TSRM.

If that still isn't enough look here:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar....aspx?S=CL&P=1

MAKE SURE YOU FOLLOW THE ONE FOR THE R154!!!! For some odd reason they switch back and forth between that and W58.

Disregard the spacer issue, if you were W58 before just act like you never read that part of my thread.

The trans mount I believe is from a W58 out of a pickup.


You mentioned something about it not wanting to sit flush, mine did. It may have something to do with how you installed it. If you have the time I would take it out and install in via TSRM. Hope that helps and good luck.


Jon.

sc1jzgte

Thanks for the clarification Jon, yes I am absolutely sure the guys at toyota knew what they were doing, thats why I started this thread to find out if that reason was critical or not.

So what I am getting at is the reason is: Imagine if you have the motor in the car still, we know that nightmare of getting the tranny on flush. So this proper way following the manual it would be a lot easier to just have to get it in the pilot bearing only. then do the rest.

So if that is the reason I should be fine, i had the motor out, and eventually i got it all lined up and in. I just went the harder route... but same results.?.


Yes hands down the safest bet for me is to redo the damn thing, make sure you do it right and avoid harder issues later... im usually about that, but man this sucks!

Anybody have any more experienced or valid comments on my theory? 2JZlex?

2jzlex

iTrader: (3)

Ooooo you had the motor out..... lol. I was thinking to myself, how in the world did he get the angle to push the tranny through the assymbled clutch and then into the pilot bearing in the trans tunnel....? Ugh, anyway, it's totally up to you whether to pull it off or not again, if it is just sitting there in your garage, it will be alot easier than dropping it out of the car if something DID go wrong. Everything is probably ok, sometimes thing just take a little TLC and to get them to fit right the first time, and yours is a 1j block where mine is a 2j so maybe that is the diff for the gap, not really sure. Essentially, the clutch is going to go together the same way with pieces in place either way you do it. But doing it via TSRM, you are pretty much assured everthing is line up correctly. It would really suck to put the clutch on the motor, stab the tranny through it and then somehow misalign the pilot bearing and then crank the bellhousing bolts down forcing the input shaft into the rear main assymbley of your block yuck. Just some food for thought.

BTW what clutch did you end up going with?

sc1jzgte

dont you hate when you are thinking of what could be very bad but then you brush it off and well..... then someone repeats it!

"It would really suck to put the clutch on the motor, stab the tranny through it and then somehow misalign the pilot bearing and then crank the bellhousing bolts down forcing the input shaft into the rear main assymbley of your block"

I was thinking, i wonder if i could crush the pilot bearing with that force? but honestly it went very smoothly and easily once got the bolt going.. so i figured it got wedged into alignment in that pilot bearing... I wanted to cancel out the possibility of it having to do with that plate and me crushing something else, and I did from craaazy so I feel better about that.

yeah i would redo it in a heart beat for piece of mind... but i have EVERYTHING reinstalled in my car and i did this from the ground by pulling the motor... The reason this issue came up so late is because i was missing the rear speed sensor on the tranny, and when i went to order it i saw the TSRM and was like oh #*!^, then i was like duh, why didnt i research more, I mean why would toyota make those holes in the bellhousing for nothing!

I think Im going to run with it, I have 3 clutches, 2 flywheels, and 1 pressure plate.... if it doesnt work and something messes up I will have to take it out anyway.. but actually if i had a lift i probably would do it now also.

I went with the spec 2 plus clutch, same one off my w58, loved it and didnt get much use out of it because the tran blew (before the ? start the clutch disc for w58 and r154 are the same, but you NEED R154 press plate and 1jz fly)

2jzlex

iTrader: (3)

Speaking of speed sensor, I found a solution to it no matter what the situation. I will be doing a continuation of my thread about it w/ pictures, probably tomorow or Thursday if all the parts come in, only cost me about $100 w/ shipping.

sc1jzgte

What do you mean a solution? There are 3 connectors on the tranny - back up sensor - speodometer - rear speed sensor -

WTH is the rear speed sensor? do I need it? its like $160 but otherwise there is an exposed hole in my tranny!

madmax98

Bump to his question ^^^^^

craaaazzy

iTrader: (4)

no need for rear speed sensor. just plug it up. i think it was in 2jzlex's thread that had info on that.

as for the solution, i believe he's talking about the part you can buy from marlincrawler that will convert the existing mechanical sensor to an electrical one that you can then plug into. read his thread, good information.