Bought a 1UZFE for my swap
10-31-07, 09:35 PM
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Bought a 1UZFE for my swap
I bought a 1uzfe allegedly from a 96 SC400 with 44k miles. It came with mostly complete top to bottom, side to side - the computer and engine wiring harness are intact, catalytic's still installed on exhausts with sensors, and an A340E auto trans all bolted up with cables and trans harness. pictures to follow I'm sure. couldn't turn the deal down.
I'm really new to this motor, but love the way it runs in my 92 SC400 even with 198k miles - buttery smooth with gobs of torque. I was going to use a big block Buick 455 in my swap since I'm more familiar with old Detroit iron, and have done all the machine work on the BBB and just need to assemble it. But I like the Toyota motor so much that I decided that I'm changing horses midstream and am selling off the 455 to help fund the Toyota install once I get the 1UZ running. But I have a huge learning curve in front of me that I'm looking forward to. Long term I think this motor holds more "fun" potential and I'm sick of working on Rochester carbs -- all hail EFI.
So I'll begin at the beginning - I'd like to fire the motor up to confirm running condition but I need some help in getting going.
1) how do I ID the year - is there a badge somewhere on the motor that would have that info? I have the electronic service manual pages d/l'd from Toyota TIS but can find no reference in it for a serial # location.
2) I don't have any of the ignition circuit/harness (that I'm aware of), what sort of wiring config can I cobble together to get the thing started? I can get the starter motor wiring worked out, but the not sure how to spoof the ECU into starting the motor.
3) I don't want to run the power steering pump or the AC pump, is there a serpentine belt setup that will allow me to remove these so that I'm left with just crank, alternator, and water pump? need to move alternator up higher too.
I've been hip deep in the search screen tonight but can't come up with much info to help me yet - suggestions/comments/links? Any and all help going forward very appreciated. Oh, and if you're looking for Buick 455 parts I'm your man.
I'm really new to this motor, but love the way it runs in my 92 SC400 even with 198k miles - buttery smooth with gobs of torque. I was going to use a big block Buick 455 in my swap since I'm more familiar with old Detroit iron, and have done all the machine work on the BBB and just need to assemble it. But I like the Toyota motor so much that I decided that I'm changing horses midstream and am selling off the 455 to help fund the Toyota install once I get the 1UZ running. But I have a huge learning curve in front of me that I'm looking forward to. Long term I think this motor holds more "fun" potential and I'm sick of working on Rochester carbs -- all hail EFI.
So I'll begin at the beginning - I'd like to fire the motor up to confirm running condition but I need some help in getting going.
1) how do I ID the year - is there a badge somewhere on the motor that would have that info? I have the electronic service manual pages d/l'd from Toyota TIS but can find no reference in it for a serial # location.
2) I don't have any of the ignition circuit/harness (that I'm aware of), what sort of wiring config can I cobble together to get the thing started? I can get the starter motor wiring worked out, but the not sure how to spoof the ECU into starting the motor.
3) I don't want to run the power steering pump or the AC pump, is there a serpentine belt setup that will allow me to remove these so that I'm left with just crank, alternator, and water pump? need to move alternator up higher too.
I've been hip deep in the search screen tonight but can't come up with much info to help me yet - suggestions/comments/links? Any and all help going forward very appreciated. Oh, and if you're looking for Buick 455 parts I'm your man.
Last edited by sonoramike; 10-31-07 at 09:47 PM. Reason: cleanup
11-01-07, 07:20 AM
#4
I agree with the lextreme recommendation. That is the place for Toyota V8 information, especially with the 1UZ. Mention that you were always a Detroit Iron guy until the 1UZ; that will give you instant respect.
The 96-97 4L should be OBD-II with 10.4 compression as compared to your 92-95 variety that is OBD-I with 10.1 compression. The OBD-II engine has weaker connecting rods, but that is not important unless you are running over 400 to the wheels. In stock form, the 96-97 makes a little more power and torque from the additional compression.
The 96-97 4L should be OBD-II with 10.4 compression as compared to your 92-95 variety that is OBD-I with 10.1 compression. The OBD-II engine has weaker connecting rods, but that is not important unless you are running over 400 to the wheels. In stock form, the 96-97 makes a little more power and torque from the additional compression.
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