I need help, I am confused I searched but I am still lost...


I have a 5spd 94 sc300, with mods but no turbo (yet) I know the transmission can only handle wut ever it is 300 or 400 hp but im no where near there, I have an injen intake, xerd headers, magnaflow hiflo cat and 3" pipes front to back, finished with a HKS hi power exhaust... and a lil basic tuning. I don't beat on the car cause its slammed with kit and 18" dished rims, but i do get in it, I mean the engine is strong with like 110,000 miles but I am now having a problem with my transmission, or something and that's where i need help, trying to diagnose.

Issues

1st ~ Car started acting up, the best way to describe it was surging sparadic "revving", by this i mean i was in 5th doing like 55 mph and when i would go WOT the revs wud redline with no acceleration.

2nd ~ Then the "revving" started to happen in 4th then 3rd and now all gears and before the car finally wouldn't move, whenever it wud "revv" with no power transfer i would smell something really horrible burning up.

3rd ~ If i am sitting still in neutral clutch the car into first and take my foot off the clutch the car does not stall it actually rolls forward like an automatic would do in neutral but if i rev the engine, its as if I am not revving the engine no power transfered through to the wheels just that horrible burning smell.

Answers to Questions i can see coming, the clutch feels kinda soft but it does return with no problem & its not sticky at any point, there is no grinding in any gears, all gears are accessable, the clutch fluid is full.

Well if anyone has any clue please respond a.s.a.p it is a daily driver, o yes one more thing I can't take it anymore, its for sale!

 

a few q's for you because it sounds like your clutch is going out...

1. how high off the floor is the clutch before it really starts to grab?

2. you say that in neutral the car will start moving, how fast does it start moving. it could be a bent fork in the trans but i doubt it.

I would suggest getting a new clutch since it is dead and while you are in there take out the shifter and check the linkage inside the trans and see if it is bent.

 

you need a new clutch simple as that. i from my own experience would stay the heck away from clutchmasters. i have a thread showing the new clutch (clutchmasters) that came appart in 3 days so steer clear of thoes.
pm me if you need more input.

 

sounds like the exact problem my friendhad in his VW he ordered a new clutch and all is good!.. and at that mileage that might be the original clutchonthe car.. thats kinda how it happened on my Solara too

 

You need a clutch. Simple as that. Your oem clutch breathed it's last breath.

You could either do it yourself with a friend's help, or have it done.

Either way, buy the clutch YOURSELF!!!! It's half the price if the shop doesn't get it for you and then mark it up-- avoid paying profit twice.

I'm pretty sure you can get the labor done for fairly cheap-- Don't let those guys tell you it's like $600.. That's efffin ridiculous man... I know of shops that will do the labor for like $200 --

It's just a toyota, a very high end one, but still--[as far as basic design, it's pretty much like changing a clutch in a ford truck] A clutch can be changed in 2 hours-- even less if your flywheel isn't turned-- which is common practice on a clutch job. It's really a very easy job to do.

Just ask around, make several calls--

Places NOT to go to: In this order.

1. The dealership-- You know that-- $1200 or something close-- ?? What??
2. Midas-- Their labor rates are high, and they're all about corporate--


Go to a locally owned shop that's not in a super shiny building they're trying to pay off. A 15mm is a 15mm-- no matter what building it's in..

There are mechanics in every town that are very reputable, better than the shiny building guys, and love working on cars, and are not out to rip you off..
These are the type of guys that will give you advice in a very honest manner.

 

^ agreed with everything he said

 

well this is my first stick so i am going to take you guys word for it, and go with a new clutch and lightened flywheel, i am going to order it tonight just gotta now figure out which company to get plus i plan on going turbo in the next month or two, any suggestions.....????

**I also saw the thread about the defective clutchmaster, sorry about that , because i thought clutchmasters were pretty goood and I was considering one myself weeks ago for my turbo project......

 

My Kevlar/Kevlar clutch is oem or better feel and holds ~500 crank ~410whp with no issues. It was custom local, but should not be hard to find something close. If you go much above that you are blowing your w58 anyway, remember that before you go bizerk looking for to much clutch.

 

Maybe see if anyone in your area has an sc or can work on them and will do the job for even less that a non major name shop would charge. Havent changed a tranny on a RWD car, but has to be easier than a FWD where the axles have to come out. I imagine remove the drive shaft, linkage, unbolt tranny support, lower, remove pressure plate, and clutch disk.

man I need to find a fsm for these cars...