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Flex-a-lite 210 Install Guide

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Old Nov 11, 2005 | 12:07 AM
  #31  
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reza
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There is no stock wiring used here. All are high power are 12gauge wire, the signal wires are 14gauge. Wiring are directly from battery, thus as long you have the correct wire type for the signal, etc. It should be fine.
12gauge can carry up to 41amps by standard.
14gauge can carry up to 32amps by standard.

There will be a switch installed for manual turn on.

Originally Posted by Hermosa
Just replace the stock wiring with better larger gauge wires. Mine burned out and the car got close to overheating real quick when the fan cut out. Luckily I was near a gas station.
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Old Nov 11, 2005 | 09:20 AM
  #32  
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Hermosa
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Originally Posted by reza
There is no stock wiring used here. All are high power are 12gauge wire, the signal wires are 14gauge. Wiring are directly from battery, thus as long you have the correct wire type for the signal, etc. It should be fine.
12gauge can carry up to 41amps by standard.
14gauge can carry up to 32amps by standard.

There will be a switch installed for manual turn on.
We are talking about the fan unit and not the car. The comment was that the stock wiring of the fan, whether it was some manufacturer defect or faulty wires, caused me pain.
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Old Nov 11, 2005 | 11:32 AM
  #33  
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How are your temps? Especially under hard driving. FAL's on supraforums cause overheating problems with hard driving and with boosted engines.
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Old Nov 11, 2005 | 02:09 PM
  #34  
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reza
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I used a temperature probe at both inlet and outlet of radiator to adjust the temp ****.
I tune it so it turns on at about 185F. Then it turns off at 175F. This is at the inlet.
The outlet has different story, it turns on at 185F at the inlet, which is the same on the outlet.
Soon after the fan turns on, the outlet drops to about 100-110F. I can even touch the radiator hose by hand.

I had driven the car hard for 2nd 3rd gear G-tech pull, no overheating so far, then again its fall now, and SF Bay Area temps are about 70Fs.

During traffic, 1st2nd gear crawls, it turns on about every 5 minutes for a minute.
I don't hear it turns on at 65-90mph cruises, I think there is enough air coming in.

Reza


Originally Posted by jacques
How are your temps? Especially under hard driving. FAL's on supraforums cause overheating problems with hard driving and with boosted engines.
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Old Nov 14, 2005 | 01:28 PM
  #35  
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Hermosa
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Originally Posted by reza
I used a temperature probe at both inlet and outlet of radiator to adjust the temp ****.
I tune it so it turns on at about 185F. Then it turns off at 175F. This is at the inlet.
The outlet has different story, it turns on at 185F at the inlet, which is the same on the outlet.
Soon after the fan turns on, the outlet drops to about 100-110F. I can even touch the radiator hose by hand.

I had driven the car hard for 2nd 3rd gear G-tech pull, no overheating so far, then again its fall now, and SF Bay Area temps are about 70Fs.

During traffic, 1st2nd gear crawls, it turns on about every 5 minutes for a minute.
I don't hear it turns on at 65-90mph cruises, I think there is enough air coming in.

Reza
In the southern California desert I had issues when I drove hard fo three hours straight in the summer through the desert. No surprise there. This was the only time I had an issue with overheating except for when the wiring failed.
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Old Aug 17, 2007 | 11:07 AM
  #36  
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deruvian
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I'd just like to note that I installed the FAL 210s a few weeks ago, and the 12v switched source at my igniter was NOT the black and orange wire (1995 SC300). I've also read that the red w/ white wire is a switched source, but I didn't even have a red w/ white wire at the igniter (I had a red w/ yellow, but it was not switched at 12v - it had a much lower voltage). The one that I tapped into was a blue w/ white wire, and all is working well.
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Old Aug 19, 2007 | 02:24 PM
  #37  
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evileagle
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where are the pics?
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