What are the worst things you guys have heard about JDM motors?
#1
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What are the worst things you guys have heard about JDM motors?
I have been asking aroud about them and wanted to ask you guys. What have you guys heard? Any horror stories? the reason I ask is that my primary car is getting lemon lawed and I need to find a motor and get it in my SC asap. i just want to know what precausions I might be able to take to avoid disaster. I am thinking I should change all rings, bearing and caps and of coarse gaskets and pumps. but what about pistons and rods? I know 2js are good motors ( ive had 3!) but who really knows the condition of these motors.
Last edited by SC-CZAR; 12-13-04 at 05:41 PM.
#2
Mortgage Slave
I've got a 1JZ in my Soarer, and apart from a misfire and blown turbo (fixed and turbos upgraded with new ones @ 170000kms) I haven't had a problem, everything's in good nick and regularly serviced... this is with 180000kms on the engine.
So no problems... I know of another Soarer with a 1JZ, 327kw@wheels, metal head gasket and HKS cams, everything else is stock
Jose
So no problems... I know of another Soarer with a 1JZ, 327kw@wheels, metal head gasket and HKS cams, everything else is stock
Jose
#3
Pole Position
I've installed a few JDM import motors and have never had a problem. But I never opened them up. Don't open a JDM motor unless you are completely rebuilding it and checking all clearances, machining the block, redoing the head, etc, etc. A proper rebuild like this costs weeks in time and could get you into the thousands. If you crack that engine open to just change rings and bearings, you may invite problems. It also voids your warranty.
It's best to just change the timing belt, water pump, front main seal, real main seal, cam seals, and valve cover gaskets. Leave everything else alone. It should run well for a long time.
Of course it's somewhat of a gamble being that you are trusting someone way the hell in Japan but so far, I've had no problems nor ever heard of any horror stories.
Make sure your supplier offers a good warranty and claims to have tested the engine. That way if there is an issue, at least you can get your money back or another engine.
The killer is that they only warranty that, not labor. The labor is the biggest investestment in the entire mess. Yea great you have a new engine but now you have to swap it AGAIN.
Stick to reputable places and I'm pretty confident you will be fine.
It's best to just change the timing belt, water pump, front main seal, real main seal, cam seals, and valve cover gaskets. Leave everything else alone. It should run well for a long time.
Of course it's somewhat of a gamble being that you are trusting someone way the hell in Japan but so far, I've had no problems nor ever heard of any horror stories.
Make sure your supplier offers a good warranty and claims to have tested the engine. That way if there is an issue, at least you can get your money back or another engine.
The killer is that they only warranty that, not labor. The labor is the biggest investestment in the entire mess. Yea great you have a new engine but now you have to swap it AGAIN.
Stick to reputable places and I'm pretty confident you will be fine.
#4
Are you talking about going with a GTE or just leaving it GE? Sorry if I'm not comprehending. I know with the JDM GTE's there are things that need to be changed such as the oil pan I believe. I don't know the entire list but I'm sure you can find lots of info by searching.
Good luck
EDIT: I think it goes without saying drain the oil and refill with new as well as the filter. The last JDM we did, the oil that it was shipped with had the consistancy of mapel syrup. We poured some gas in and sloshed it around for a few min. and then repeated several times. Gas is a lubricant and a very good cleaners so it is safe to do, but besure to drain it all out and even letting it set over night with the plug out and filler cap off wouldn't hurt.
Worst story I have heard was from a guy in Cedar Rapids IA. He kept blowing the motors under warrenty and I guess they claimed it was due to have corrosion on the bearings from setting with no oil in them for so long. So on his 3rd motor he just put all new bearings in it and it works great to this day. The company covered all the motors though
Good luck
EDIT: I think it goes without saying drain the oil and refill with new as well as the filter. The last JDM we did, the oil that it was shipped with had the consistancy of mapel syrup. We poured some gas in and sloshed it around for a few min. and then repeated several times. Gas is a lubricant and a very good cleaners so it is safe to do, but besure to drain it all out and even letting it set over night with the plug out and filler cap off wouldn't hurt.
Worst story I have heard was from a guy in Cedar Rapids IA. He kept blowing the motors under warrenty and I guess they claimed it was due to have corrosion on the bearings from setting with no oil in them for so long. So on his 3rd motor he just put all new bearings in it and it works great to this day. The company covered all the motors though
Last edited by qtb33; 12-14-04 at 09:11 AM.
#5
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The only motor I have had problems with is Nissan rb20dets...guessing that its due to the fact that the motors are old and have been sitting in yards for a long time....either that or they are just crappy motors...
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Thanks for the replys guys. i was worried about throwing a piston and sch sice i was going with eith an hks t51r kit or a custom t78. I just want to be sure its going to hanle high boost. I was planning on chaning the head gasket to an hks or better and using a complete gasket rebuild kit they sell from toyota. i just was worried about the short block. I guess i will remove the pan and check the inside and if i fnd the walls in good condition ill leave it alone if not ill just go .020 over and put pistons and rods.
Also you guy reccommend using a complete setup of arp hardware?
And for whomever asked yes this is a gte motor.
Also you guy reccommend using a complete setup of arp hardware?
And for whomever asked yes this is a gte motor.
#7
Originally posted by SC-CZAR
Thanks for the replys guys. i was worried about throwing a piston and sch sice i was going with eith an hks t51r kit or a custom t78. I just want to be sure its going to hanle high boost. I was planning on chaning the head gasket to an hks or better and using a complete gasket rebuild kit they sell from toyota. i just was worried about the short block. I guess i will remove the pan and check the inside and if i fnd the walls in good condition ill leave it alone if not ill just go .020 over and put pistons and rods.
Also you guy reccommend using a complete setup of arp hardware?
And for whomever asked yes this is a gte motor.
Thanks for the replys guys. i was worried about throwing a piston and sch sice i was going with eith an hks t51r kit or a custom t78. I just want to be sure its going to hanle high boost. I was planning on chaning the head gasket to an hks or better and using a complete gasket rebuild kit they sell from toyota. i just was worried about the short block. I guess i will remove the pan and check the inside and if i fnd the walls in good condition ill leave it alone if not ill just go .020 over and put pistons and rods.
Also you guy reccommend using a complete setup of arp hardware?
And for whomever asked yes this is a gte motor.
What are your power goals?
I would recommend new cams as soon as you put the T78 on or sooner. I'm assuming you'll also instantly go with bigger injectors and your replacing the crappy jdm turbos. Sounds like you'll have a real fun SC. I don't think cylinder wear on the side walls will be an issue on that motor.
Good luck
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#9
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Originally posted by soarer479
i see your in florida. if you need any advice on a good shop depending on your location i can deffinatly help you out ... ive either been to or dealt with just about all of them
i see your in florida. if you need any advice on a good shop depending on your location i can deffinatly help you out ... ive either been to or dealt with just about all of them
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