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For the dash, the simple solution is the same for all cars. Just replace the really bad side dash speakers and attenuate the center speaker. There are lots of quality 3.5” speakers that all will sound worlds better than the factory junk. From the $50 Kickers to the $150 JL Audio. In between is the Infinity, JBL, Hertz, Rockford Fosgate and Kenwood that all make excellent replacements. Just make sure the tweeter doesn’t stick out too much and hit the plastic grill. Also be aware that the existing mounting screws WILL work, but they kind of go in at a slight wonky angle at first until you tighten them up.
Get 2 pairs of Metra 72-8109 speaker wire connector adapters or the lower cost knock-offs from AliExpress. One set for the 2 front dash speakers, and the other for the center dash and sub. Don’t attempt to do the job without these. The wiring connectors supplied by Crutchfield are wrong as is the list of speakers that fit.
Many change the center speaker too, and you think that it would sound better, it generally does not. The “surround sound” that Lexus-Pioneer uses is junk, and the best way is to simply throttle the volume of the center with a simple 2-ohm 5-watt resister in line from the positive wire to the speaker. Use the extra adapter. You can also just disconnect the center. If you insist on replacing it with a match to the side, I would still add the resister in line.
Simply put.. I did what was highlighted above. The speakers used in the dash corners are Kicker 150 MAX 50W RMS CSC4, 2-ohm 5-watt resistor for the center and Metra 72-8109 speaker wire connector adapters.
I'm very happy with the results as I am at medicare age and don't require a killer sound system these days. This was a very noticeable improvement over stock.
I wanted to post a thank you for @AtomicLexus for his advice/guide.
Perfect install on the RX , very snug and secure using the same two 10mmm bolts. If this fits the NX then this would be an outstanding upgrade from base NX sound system, Again, the subwoofer would be a secondary consideration and augment the low subwoofer base (20-180 Hertz) and and bass sound (typically considered 60-250 hertz; misses subwoofer very low end 20-60 Hertz; the thumper feel it range)
The price is on the high side but i think the space needed would be ideal, but i have already ordered my jl if not i definitely go for this.🥲
@fierymonkey JL always excellent, but the Trulli is maybe the future best sub upgrade for cars.. Let's us know how you like your system when completed.
@fierymonkey JL always excellent, but the Trulli is maybe the future best sub upgrade for cars.. Let's us know how you like your system when completed.
YMMV,
MidCow3
P.S. - you could always cancel and return your JL
JL have arrived today but the amp have to wait 2 weeks. Ya I do agree up to date JL has always been my No.1 sub to go for but the trulli the slim is what attracted me. But I don't see much video nor review.
Cool tech, and an amazing high power handling small box sub. But the reality is that for less than 10% of this cost, there are lots of really good subs. Bass is fairly easy to produce, and proper following of mechanical and electrical properties of the speaker combined with enclosure design optimizes the desired goal. I have found over the years that starting with a speaker, and then figure the enclosure only works without box size constraints. In a car, especially fitting it into the space available, it is best to design your enclosure for maximum volume, then use a boxplot program to test out which speakers will work best for the box size you designed. This gets you the most bang for the buck. If money is no object, the Trulli has impressive properties.
JL have arrived today but the amp have to wait 2 weeks. Ya I do agree up to date JL has always been my No.1 sub to go for but the trulli the slim is what attracted me. But I don't see much video nor review.
Yes i saw this but video post is all by trulli or the dealer of trulli, almost nothing from end user. I saw a few super car using it maybe it really works on very confine space.
Cool tech, and an amazing high power handling small box sub. But the reality is that for less than 10% of this cost, there are lots of really good subs. Bass is fairly easy to produce, and proper following of mechanical and electrical properties of the speaker combined with enclosure design optimizes the desired goal. I have found over the years that starting with a speaker, and then figure the enclosure only works without box size constraints. In a car, especially fitting it into the space available, it is best to design your enclosure for maximum volume, then use a boxplot program to test out which speakers will work best for the box size you designed. This gets you the most bang for the buck. If money is no object, the Trulli has impressive properties.
Yes i do agree with you. But for this case i think most of us do not want a big box in our boot or only me hence looking for more solutions to have a nice bass yet space saving.
Yes i do agree with you. But for this case i think most of us do not want a big box in our boot or only me hence looking for more solutions to have a nice bass yet space saving.
There are many small box low profile subs out there for 10% of the cost that provide excellent musicality and fill the missing lows. Not the same level of tech as Trulli, but since it is a Lexus, and not an exotic sports car, it will do fine. The neodymium perimeter magnets is a cool design and other inverted style magnet speakers have been around for decades. My old Mercedes SLK had those in the doors, and after one burned up, I modified the integrated basket design with a Hertz woofer (I have a photo earlier in this thread, #123). The big problem with the entire audio in the Lexus is there are so many shortcomings, that the next issue becomes more apparent after the low hanging fruit has been taken. Replace the dash sides, attenuate the center, add a small amp to the existing sub and these low cost improvements are drastic. The next set of improvements are not so easy or cheap. Unless your goal is bigger boom, the Trulli cost is not justified. Again, if you create (or just have the finished design for the interior cubic inches) of the box, and a speaker in mind, I can optimize the port tuning. Or you can download one the many boxplot programs and play with it yourself. It is fun testing what-if scenarios. Unlike crossover design, sub and woofer tuning is easy. Most important is to just have fun with it. There are many options that all help the sound quality.
Last edited by AtomicLexus; Jul 27, 2024 at 03:32 PM.
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There are many small box low profile subs out there for 10% of the cost that provide excellent musicality and fill the missing lows. Not the same level of tech as Trulli, but since it is a Lexus, and not an exotic sports car, it will do fine. The neodymium perimeter magnets is a cool design and other inverted style magnet speakers have been around for decades. My old Mercedes SLK had those in the doors, and after one burned up, I modified the integrated basket design with a Hertz woofer (I have a photo earlier in this thread, #123). The big problem with the entire audio in the Lexus is there are so many shortcomings, that the next issue becomes more apparent after the low hanging fruit has been taken. Replace the dash sides, attenuate the center, add a small amp to the existing sub and these low cost improvements are drastic. The next set of improvements are not so easy or cheap. Unless your goal is bigger boom, the Trulli cost is not justified. Again, if you create (or just have the finished design for the interior cubic inches) of the box, and a speaker in mind, I can optimize the port tuning. Or you can download one the many boxplot programs and play with it yourself. It is fun testing what-if scenarios. Unlike crossover design, sub and woofer tuning is easy. Most important is to just have fun with it. There are many options that all help the sound quality.
Yes i saw this but video post is all by trulli or the dealer of trulli, almost nothing from end user. I saw a few super, car using it maybe it really works on very confine space.
Agree with you, its easy for others (posers) to copy and paste from the internet with no direct contact or experience w the actual products....better to get first hand information from those who have actually used the products
Last edited by Lexicon1; Jul 28, 2024 at 12:16 AM.
So, I decided to try a different approach, like some others wanting to easily put things back to the original condition if the need arises. Also, I preferred to have the sub in the cabin, instead of under the rear deck. I have a cargo mat on top of the deck, and it seemed like the deck itself plus the cargo mat would mute the sound significantly if I put a sub below the deck, or even amplified the OEM sub
. It occurred to me that the space behind the wheel wells is not very usable, and could fit a small sub. I bought the H YANKA SODA-08ASW 8 inch powered sub on Amazon for a little under $100, and wired it to the sub wiring in the rear of my NX 350h. I used the rear power outlet for power. My biggest difficulty was figuring out how to get the connector to the OEM sub to release. It took a lot of time and experimenting to figure out that first you have to pry loose the white holder that holds the wiring harness to the sub. Then you have to insert a small flathead screwdriver into a small gap between the white holder and the two black connectors, to release them from the white holder. Then, the release tab permitting the black connectors to separate is on the bottom, where it was hidden by the white holder. Anyway, my new powered sub is now nestled in the nook where the first aid kit was installed, with extra support from a bungie cord. Not elegant, but out of sight and out of the way. Just installed and tested today. Will do some driving soon to see how it works out.
I like this setup, do you have to use an amp for any of this or did you only need to buy the subwoofer. Also how's it sound?
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There are many small box low profile subs out there for 10% of the cost that provide excellent musicality and fill the missing lows. Not the same level of tech as Trulli, but since it is a Lexus, and not an exotic sports car, it will do fine. The neodymium perimeter magnets is a cool design and other inverted style magnet speakers have been around for decades. My old Mercedes SLK had those in the doors, and after one burned up, I modified the integrated basket design with a Hertz woofer (I have a photo earlier in this thread, #123). The big problem with the entire audio in the Lexus is there are so many shortcomings, that the next issue becomes more apparent after the low hanging fruit has been taken. Replace the dash sides, attenuate the center, add a small amp to the existing sub and these low cost improvements are drastic. The next set of improvements are not so easy or cheap. Unless your goal is bigger boom, the Trulli cost is not justified. Again, if you create (or just have the finished design for the interior cubic inches) of the box, and a speaker in mind, I can optimize the port tuning. Or you can download one the many boxplot programs and play with it yourself. It is fun testing what-if scenarios. Unlike crossover design, sub and woofer tuning is easy. Most important is to just have fun with it. There are many options that all help the sound quality.
Overall I agree with you except of vented box. In my opinion: 1. reflex (ported, tuned) system is not recommended for beginners (needs much experience, special driver, and lot of measurement), 2. it requires bigger box than a closed one (+ free ventilation of port needs another extra space), 3. closed subwoofers have the least colored sound and only 12dB/oct sloping.
