Originally Posted by goaliebill

When moving. Once the temperature goes up, for example, in the afternoon, no issues. The "Trac" light stays on for 5-10 seconds, then goes out. I've goosed it and provoked wheel slippage, so I don't think the traction system is working when the light is on.

Originally Posted by CMWis300

Po430 code fix. I battled this for a month and came up with a good cheap fix. I had the po430 code on a 2002 IS300. The cheap fix is to tie both of the bank 1 & 2 sensor 2 input wires at the ecu to the bank one sensor 2 output at the ecu. I used one gold plated butt splice connector at the ecu plug. You must leave both sensors and wiring in place good or bad for the heater load and bank one o2 sensor 2 must be good. You can find the pin out wiring diagram online at o2simulator.com. I feel as though it is a design flaw that everyone over 100K will have to deal with. You can spend thousands on cats and o2's and labor or a 20 cent butt splice connector. Hope this helps everyone.

Originally Posted by rocketman

Hi Tach_Motor,
Is the idle hunting a normal characteristic for ALL lexus models when the battery is disconnected and reconnected? I had to disconnect my battery in order to connect it to a battery charger and after reconnecting the battery, it did take exactly (I timed it) 15 minutes (starts at 2000 rpm for 5 minutes, then at 1500 RPM for 10 minutes) before the idle speed dropped to the normal range (700-800 RPM). Just wanted to make sure it was not a problem with the ECM/Computer.

Originally Posted by kdouglas39

Tach Motor

Is it okay to use seafoam to clean out the carbon buildup on the 2006 GS 300?
There is a port on the intake where it can be sprayed into. The DI Engines are know to have this issue and dealer wants about $600 to do a top engine clean.

Originally Posted by sema52

Hi Tach Motor

I have a 2002 LS 430 with right at 70k. I am the second owner, purchased from a Lexus dealership. My problem: the low oil pressure dash light came on. I had it towed the the dealer where I purchased it, and after several days they called and said it has a sludge problem. To the point of having to replace rings. And suggestions here? They said that although I have changed the oil religiously and had the 60k checkup, that probably the previous owner may have never changed the oil. Which, I find difficult to understand.

Anyway, they said they were going to ask Toyoto for financial help for the repair. And that I might need to call them. I asked what the fee is, for changing the rings, and they said $5,000 for just that.

Do you have any advice for me? Specific questions I should be asking? Anything else I should be doing to keep the fix from being too expensive?

Thanks very much.

Originally Posted by Dubzy

Hello!

I have a 2006 ES330 and I recently changed the stock GPS for an x910bt and got the PAC-SWI. The head unit ran fine for about 2 weeks no problems, but I hadn't hooked up the steering controls yet. It seems I read the diagram wrong and hooked the PACSWI up to the speed sensor in my mistake. Since then the VSC Light, TRAC OFF, and CEL has been on. I tried to disconnect the battery for about 30min from the negative terminal and I have not been able to clear these lights. I never hooked the speed sensor up to the head unit, and there doesn't seem to be any issue with driving, the ride is still fine. Do you think the sensor has been shorted out, the wiring? What do I do? As I read in multiple post there seems to be a few different sensors, but I am not sure which one this would be on my car.

Is there a different way to clear the lights on the dash?

Please point me in the right direction

Originally Posted by 100bajan

I changed the gas cap, light was off for a few days and came back on, where can I find the schematics to identify the vsv for a 98 GS400 to try that next? And is it a dealer only part? What is a rough price on it? thanks
http://www.lexuspartsnow.com/Page_Pr...e&seeDesc=true

This is what I found about the parts for the VSV, now I see different prices and part numbers, how do I know which one to chose for my car?

Originally Posted by TACH_MOTOR

Your very lucky as these motors are non-interference. Remove everything and inspect all the components. Def change out the crank and cam seals. Also put in new idler pulleys and t-belt tensioner. Water pump you can leave as the fins are metal and they wouldnt sustain damage. Keep us posted

Originally Posted by TACH_MOTOR

17650E is the one you would need, Also look into replacing the charcoal canister as well. Remove the engine cover and check all your vacuum lines to make sure one isnt unplugged or broken.

Originally Posted by deanshark

Thanks TACH MOTOR, I forgot to edit my last post. I did inspect everything after I took it off. It turns out the idler pulley that works with the tensioner was leaking the bearing grease, so I got new idlers from the warranty. With the tensioner, the push rod wasn't out far enough. It wasn't in spec when I measured it. I have no clue on how this could have happened, I know the belt was tight when I did it last year, plus I put 14k miles on it before this happened. It was an after market. Not this time, I'm going OEM with that and the belt. Without a doubt I'm gonna change the seals this time. I can't do it for a while b/c the car is under 3 feet of snow. (You know how that is) I'll post when I do something with it. Thanks again.

Originally Posted by 100bajan

Is the charcoal canister a dealer only part? and what is a rough price range for replace that and the VSV?

Originally Posted by TACH_MOTOR

Disconnect the wiring from the headunit and retrace your steps also check fuses. I need pics as well to see what went wrong.