Thumb's up for Dennis (onehotdetailing)
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From: New Jersey
Thumb's up for Dennis (onehotdetailing)
I just got the car detailed on Saturday by Dennis (One HoT) took some pics, so i'll let them do all the talking. I definitely recommend you go see Dennis.
I used Optimum polish via rotary with Meg's Finishing pad for the first pass. Then I used Merzerna IP via PC for the second pass since my rotary left some marring of its own. The only thing I hate about Merzerna polishes is that they dust like hell. LSP, I used Klasse sealant, works great and last long! Shines like a carnauba but has the durability of a sealant.
For reference, here is what it looked like before in picture one and after the first stage of polishing in picture two.
Before polishing
After first stage via rotary and Optimum polish
Some of the marks from the shop wet-sanding did not completely buff off but almost all the halograms are gone which what I was trying to accomplish. I completely forgot how tough certain black paint is, I've been spoiled with German Porsche paint lately (been doing several 911 around my way, thanks for the referrals Andrew!). They are real easy to polish, real soft, just needs a least aggressive polish and a mild aggressive pad, 90% of swirls come out right away.
Thanks for the kind words again guys.
Last edited by One HoT; Jul 1, 2009 at 11:59 PM.
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Funny you asked, the car was completely repainted when the T's project kit was put on. When I polished the car, I had noticed that several sections of the car had CC and others did not. The hood for instance, did not blacken my polishing pad but when I polished the door my pad turned black (indicator of no CC). Not sure if the shop forgot to spray CC or perhaps it had CC but my pad turned black anyway from left over contaminants. In any case, the paint still looks like it should now after two stage polishing via rotary and PC work. Total time spent was 11 hours with 1 hour break in between for lunch. It took this long because the paint had a lot of halograms leftover from the shop. Heavy compounding is the quickest way to get the paint looking shiney after a repaint resulting in a lot of halograms. Halograms were hard to spot after the sun went down or whenever there was an overcast of clouds. My Brinkman light had a very hard time picking them up, halogens were not much help either. I think that was the most challenging part of any detail is have enough lightning to see all the flaws.
I used Optimum polish via rotary with Meg's Finishing pad for the first pass. Then I used Merzerna IP via PC for the second pass since my rotary left some marring of its own. The only thing I hate about Merzerna polishes is that they dust like hell. LSP, I used Klasse sealant, works great and last long! Shines like a carnauba but has the durability of a sealant.
For reference, here is what it looked like before in picture one and after the first stage of polishing in picture two.
Before polishing
After first stage via rotary and Optimum polish
Some of the marks from the shop wet-sanding did not completely buff off but almost all the halograms are gone which what I was trying to accomplish. I completely forgot how tough certain black paint is, I've been spoiled with German Porsche paint lately (been doing several 911 around my way, thanks for the referrals Andrew!). They are real easy to polish, real soft, just needs a least aggressive polish and a mild aggressive pad, 90% of swirls come out right away.
Thanks for the kind words again guys.
I used Optimum polish via rotary with Meg's Finishing pad for the first pass. Then I used Merzerna IP via PC for the second pass since my rotary left some marring of its own. The only thing I hate about Merzerna polishes is that they dust like hell. LSP, I used Klasse sealant, works great and last long! Shines like a carnauba but has the durability of a sealant.
For reference, here is what it looked like before in picture one and after the first stage of polishing in picture two.
Before polishing
After first stage via rotary and Optimum polish
Some of the marks from the shop wet-sanding did not completely buff off but almost all the halograms are gone which what I was trying to accomplish. I completely forgot how tough certain black paint is, I've been spoiled with German Porsche paint lately (been doing several 911 around my way, thanks for the referrals Andrew!). They are real easy to polish, real soft, just needs a least aggressive polish and a mild aggressive pad, 90% of swirls come out right away.
Thanks for the kind words again guys.
Funny you asked, the car was completely repainted when the T's project kit was put on. When I polished the car, I had noticed that several sections of the car had CC and others did not. The hood for instance, did not blacken my polishing pad but when I polished the door my pad turned black (indicator of no CC). Not sure if the shop forgot to spray CC or perhaps it had CC but my pad turned black anyway from left over contaminants. In any case, the paint still looks like it should now after two stage polishing via rotary and PC work. Total time spent was 11 hours with 1 hour break in between for lunch. It took this long because the paint had a lot of halograms leftover from the shop. Heavy compounding is the quickest way to get the paint looking shiney after a repaint resulting in a lot of halograms. Halograms were hard to spot after the sun went down or whenever there was an overcast of clouds. My Brinkman light had a very hard time picking them up, halogens were not much help either. I think that was the most challenging part of any detail is have enough lightning to see all the flaws.
I used Optimum polish via rotary with Meg's Finishing pad for the first pass. Then I used Merzerna IP via PC for the second pass since my rotary left some marring of its own. The only thing I hate about Merzerna polishes is that they dust like hell. LSP, I used Klasse sealant, works great and last long! Shines like a carnauba but has the durability of a sealant.
For reference, here is what it looked like before in picture one and after the first stage of polishing in picture two.
Before polishing
After first stage via rotary and Optimum polish
Some of the marks from the shop wet-sanding did not completely buff off but almost all the halograms are gone which what I was trying to accomplish. I completely forgot how tough certain black paint is, I've been spoiled with German Porsche paint lately (been doing several 911 around my way, thanks for the referrals Andrew!). They are real easy to polish, real soft, just needs a least aggressive polish and a mild aggressive pad, 90% of swirls come out right away.
Thanks for the kind words again guys.
I used Optimum polish via rotary with Meg's Finishing pad for the first pass. Then I used Merzerna IP via PC for the second pass since my rotary left some marring of its own. The only thing I hate about Merzerna polishes is that they dust like hell. LSP, I used Klasse sealant, works great and last long! Shines like a carnauba but has the durability of a sealant.
For reference, here is what it looked like before in picture one and after the first stage of polishing in picture two.
Before polishing
After first stage via rotary and Optimum polish
Some of the marks from the shop wet-sanding did not completely buff off but almost all the halograms are gone which what I was trying to accomplish. I completely forgot how tough certain black paint is, I've been spoiled with German Porsche paint lately (been doing several 911 around my way, thanks for the referrals Andrew!). They are real easy to polish, real soft, just needs a least aggressive polish and a mild aggressive pad, 90% of swirls come out right away.
Thanks for the kind words again guys.
Soooooo YOUR the SC Dennis was telling me about as he's detailing my F 
I'll only leave my car in the hands of D. Nobody else truly has a passion for detailing like he does. His finish products always amaze me. 
Bro.
I'll only leave my car in the hands of D. Nobody else truly has a passion for detailing like he does. His finish products always amaze me. Bro.
