Hi All,
So I damaged my fuel line in my 96 Lexus ES300 right below the fuel filter, I simply twisted it and tore it off thinking that I was unscrewing my rusty filter. I should have held the nut at the fuel line with another wrench... Never mind... So new fuel line is about $70 and it goes to the firewall and probably directly to the tank. However I found out that flaring tool makes pretty good fittings that can hold the fuel pressure. I measured my fuel line's diameter and it is 9 mm since Japanese cars go metric. I went to Sears and found Craftsman flare tool set with only 4 adaptors (not metric). Next I looked around online for high-end sets a here are some nice looking kits -> http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/tools...e=snapon-store. There are 2 metric sets and 3 SAE ones. Both metric sets have adaptors with 8mm and 10mm but no 9mm (as my line is). SAE sets have 3/8 adaptor that would be closer because it is approximately 9.5mm.

1) I would apprecite if somebody gave me a clue how accurate they have to be to hold a tube because I have never used this kind of tool. And should I buy metric or SAE set?

2) Next question would be which line do I flare - the one in the engine compartment or the one with the connector that firstly I have to purchase somewhere or cut off at a junk yard.

3) what kind of flare should I apply to fuel/brake line - single, bubble or double
4) what if I don't find it at junk yard, can I use old connector? There is still old tube remaing in it, can I remove it somehow?

5) where do I buy fittings? And will I find one for 9mm tubes? Or will 3/8 fitting fit to my line?

I know that I have too many questions but maybe I will be lucky to have some answers... And the topic may be helpful for other people.

 

I'm not recommend to do the fuel line repair(at your skill level),because it's safety related. A little mistake may cause FIRE.

I hope you have another car to drive,because I've read all of your threads from above and below on the head gasket project. You may end up neck deep into the DIY head gasket job,but hey why not.

All Lexus tools are metric and the head bolts are 12 mm 12 point socket. You will need an 8 mm hex socket to remove two of the bolts on the head(one on each side). Please pay attention on the mark on the cam shafts(see repair manual), keep all the valve buckets in order...and so on.

Are you sure you want to DIY?. Right now you need to repair the fuel line and you are only 25 % into the job. It's may cost you more than you save. I don't know how many times I've repair or re work on somebody DIY projects that the owners gave up and towed the car to the dealership. When this of thing happened we charged a lot more extra on labor because we have to go back and repair the damage and figure out WTH this guy did to his car....

Sorry about off topic and nothing to do with your fuel line repair/replacement/advice.

 

If I don't try I will never know It gives me fun so why not try. I've already purchased a shop crane and engine stand so it's too late to retreat... The engine overheats and gives smoke so it has to dissambled anyway. My friends don't fix cars so my only sources of knowledge is internet, books and talking to people. Right now I need advice on how to fix the fuel line.

And I don't know what can cause FIRE. Flaring tool doesn't give any heat...

 

He is talking about a potential improper repair and fuel leakage...

I too agree with him.

You NEED to find someone experienced in this to help... there are so many little things to look out for and keep track of that you just don't know, that we would instinctively do because of experience...

 

Thanks for safety advices but I was expecting different kind of them. I'll try to do it myself anyway.

 

you can repair just the damaged section of the fuel line by using rubber fuel line hose and fuel line hose clamps. just cut the section off with a tubing cutter and joint both ends together with the fuel line rubber hose and tie the ends down with fuel line hose clamps(not the regular radiator hose clamps). we use "double flare" for all brake lines and etc..

 

I wouldn't trust DIY repairs on a line that could see 60+ PSI of a flammable liquid, brake lines have redundancy built in, fuel lines don't - I'd say bite the bullet and get the new OEM line.

However, if you do want to tackle this the flares are either ISO or double flare. You'll want to use GOOD fittings from a hydraulics house and stainless steel line.