Just thought this would be an intereseting read for some of you.
I am planning on doing some work on my car and just out of curiosity, wanted to know how much the local lexus dealer charges...Its interesting that you get slightly different prices for parts depending on where you call....


1998 Lexus Es300
Brakes:
F-Pads: 89.95/set (Dealer 1) 68.90/set (Dealer 2)

R-Pads: 89.95/Set (Dealer 1) 68.90/set (dealer 2)

F-Rotors: 115/rotor (Dealer 1) 113/rotor (dealer 2) X 2 = $230.00
R-Rotors: 125/rotor (Dealer 1) 123/Rotor (Dealer 2) X 2= $250.00

Labor: $110/axle X 2 = 220.00

Spark Plugs:
11.35/Plug X 6: 68.10
Labor (Here's the kicker) : 222.22

Parts
Pad/Rotor change for all 4 wheels: $659.90
Spark Plug Change: 68.10
Total Parts: 728.00

Labor
Brakes: 220.00
Plugs: 222.22
Total Labor: 442.22

Grand Total: 1170.22


The labor cost for replacing the plugs just kills me...with the right tools, its a simple 30 min job...

 

The first quote on the pads might include new clips, shims and springs. The second may not.

 

The plugs in 30 minutes would be a very, very fast and skilled mechanic. I'd go closer to an hour in reality, and probably quoted/est. at 2 hours from a dealer chart.

A few parts have to be removed to get to the plugs, but I'm sure you are aware. -- You are right though, I'd definitely be doing them myself.

The prices on pads aren't bad. The rotors can be bought for half that. Also pad and rotor change on MY model Lexus is VERY routine and simple -- about as easy as they come. So that is also something I would do myself.

Just to add to the thread.

I asked the dealer a few quotes a month ago.. And I got the following:

Oil change (w/filter) = 95$ - Total 103.98$ (Wow.. Included some BS 16point inspection)

Replacement of front headlight 'BULB' = part + labor = $85 -- Total 92.50$ (Another wow)

Though my dealer is notoriously high.

Another -- Which is common I think

New key (with remote function - Master)

$328.00

Online, $45.

 

Hahaha, ok I guess I gave myself too much credit there for the plugs... an hour does seem more reasonable.

Wow, $95 for an oil change and 92.50 for lights??!! That is insane! Thank god for forums like these! Defintely big thanks to everyone here!

Anytime I do anything with the car, I like to get a quote from the dealer first...It makes me feel accomplished knowing how much money i just saved hahahaha

Is your key chipped? I've been meaning to go and get a copy of my keys and check out what is up with the remote. It takes several tries with the buttons before it wants to unlock anything...could be battery...As for my key, I'm afraid to even ask for a quote.

 

be very wary of cheap brake rotors... I deal with brake repairs on a daily basis, and can tell you from experience there are definite differences between OEM and OEM quality and cheaper imitations... things like porosity / metal density and vent design are big things to look at... OEM designs are far superior to cheap aftermarket imitations... most aftermarket brands, however, do have OEM quality replacements available, and many times are just a few dollars cheaper than the OE....

 

Since you mentioned you deal with brake repairs on a daily basis, what would you recommend as far as rotors and pads go? I am in the process of gathering parts for a rotor and pad change. I've been hearing good things about akebono pads and Brembo rotors on this sight.

 

It very likely is the battery. That is a common symptom.

 

Thanks! I guess I better get a new battery soon before it fully fails and I'm back in the old days of using your key to open the door...

 

Nice! Changed it and now works like a beauty!!! thanks....

Next prob...one of my tail lights is out lol...seems like one problem after another...

 

No my key is fine, I did this for my dads 99 LS. His broke in half.

As for the several tries.. I'd unscrew it and replace the battery -- Takes about 3 minutes and will probably fix it. Otherwise you might have to make sure the buttons are making good contact when you have it apart.

I wouldn't worry about asking the dealer, you can handle this yourself .

 

Oh I am very precautious on rotors and pads.. I've researched them to death.

But I am still right on price.. you can get them cheaper than OEM, and better quality.

I have picked out Brembo blanks, with some OEM pads for the front. The rears don't warp near as easy. I'm going with Brembo for their superior quality and reliability to not be 'as easy' to warp as OEM rotors. Will proper bed them and should be good to go.

Brembo > OEM rotors. You can't really beat them in that department.

Not that OEM are bad,.. I just see front rotors warped between every brake job, way too early. It can be prevented if the proper rotors.. and proper pads are used. Then people bed them to some degree. This isn't so much to keep from having to turn them at the end of pad life, but more to keep the annoying jutter from warped rotors appearing after 3-5k miles on your new pads.

I'd sacrifice a bit of brake performance for less warping potential. I'm not talking major life danger performance, but some. Though I don't have to -- Just going with hard rotors and soft pads.

Doing the brakes on a First gen LS 400 is about as easy as it gets. Even for a beginner would take no longer than an hour for pads. For an expert they could do pads in under 10minutes.

 

Brembo Rotors and OEM pads is what I keep hearing....I have been looking around post after post for my brake change which isn't needed until probably another 2 months. Just want to gather things ahead of time and research. This will be the first time I'm doing this to my 98 es. I've had it taken out to the shop for my previous brake job.

And yes, changing the battery to the keys worked out well!!! =) Feels good not looking like an idiot standing next to my car for 5 mins tryin to get it to open while waving my keys around...

 

funny you mention that combination - thats what I used on my wifes Maxima when she was complaining about excessive brake noise from the aftermarket junk that someone had put on there prior to us getting married...

as for OEM rotors warping after 3-5k miles? keep a couple things in mind - the rotor runout spec for most newer vehicles, Lexus included, is .002" or less... this is almost nil. What happens a lot of times, especially with new rotors, is that the tech doesn't get the hub surface perfectly clean, and, well, lets face it, there is going to be rust and corrosion in that area. If its not clean, you have excessive runout, that, is typically ok, for the first few thousand miles, but once that runout has a chance to unevenly transfer pad material, then you have a brake pulsation. I've seen it first hand with the best quality rotors available (my techs, though good, are not perfect)

Also, it is very possible to get a warped rotor straight out of the box... you might think that rotors are extremely strong, and they are, but, in the warehouses, they may have 10 or more stacked on top of each other... the bottom ones are subject to a slight bit of warpage (runout) due to the weight, and this can cause issues as well.

The best solution to any of these is to turn the rotors on a on-the-car brake lathe... Granted, we don't do that when installing new rotors, but, if a problem arises, the on car lathe will take care of it, and ours is measured true to less than .001" runout when finished...

anything else you'd like to know about the brake business?

 

wow, thanks for the brief class on rotors. I can imagine the amount of force on those rotors with them being stacked. I think I decided on going with Brembo blanks and oem pads..Hunting around for some deals