Neofate

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys, just purchased my new (to me) LS 400. It has 228,000 Miles but was owned by a master mechanic who did major service on it at 195,000 Miles.

At 195k he did the following (And I'm sure I"m leaving stuff out)

New Alternator
New Waterpump
New Timing Belt/Chain
Replaced all seals in motor, included Rear Main.
Changed PS Fluid
Tranny fluid change
New Starter.
New valve cover gasket
New Plugs and Wires
New Drive Belt
Plus anything recommended by lexus at 90k Intervals.

In the past week he has done:

Replaced Climate Control
Fixed Fuel Gauge in Instrument Cluster
New brake pads
(3) new brake sensors (anyone know what these are? )
New Rack and Pinion
New Motor Mounts and Transmission Mount
Changed Oil and Filter (Used OEM Lexus Filter)

That gives you a general idea of the shape of the car.. I have a thread with pictures which includes one shot of engine bay if you want to get an idea of the condition of car:

Located at:

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=336194

Anyhow,..

First question:

Mechanic says there is *no* need to replace Differential Fluid, says only needed for ( I forgot , maybe limited slip? Not sure..) . But I asked if it would hurt anything If I changed it, he said no.

This true? Can you leave diff. fluid unchanged for the life of the car?

Let my try to ask some basic questions..

I know I need to change all fluids minus the PS fluid, and Oil. I can find what fluids to use here from search (unless you just want to tell me your personal favorites)

As for oil type, I think with the milage, even with new seals, I am going to use Dino oil,.. Synthetic might cause problems, I don't want to risk it. (Smart move?)

This isn't really maintenance, and I'll probably post it in the 'car care/wash/wax' area of the forums.. but: -- There seems to be some white paint splattered by the lower part of the passenger side of the car, in front of door behind front passenger wheel. When you glance at it, it is like the normal dirt that collects on both sides (say you went down a dirt road). However when I tried to wipe it off it didn't budge, so I looked closer and it is , indeed, white paint splattered just like a dirt would collect. -- Given this, any ideas on what product or method to use to get this off without taking the paint off the car?

Plugs/wires were replaced roughly 30-40k ago -- How long would it be wise to 'replace' them?

Bigger question:

There is an exhaust leak, from the EGR Pipe/Tube. It occurs until car warms up. For a few minutes (slight ticking noise then it goes away when it warms up and seals itself). The part for new tube is 150$. However he says you have to move the transmission to do the job. So labor is 10 Hours. So it is an expensive job.

Is there any way to alternatively 'seal' this leak? Or am I just stuck with a decision to spend 500$ on parts and labor for a slight egr pipe leak?

Tires:

The front tires have 15-25% tread left on them, good for another 10-12k miles. He has brand new Michelin V rate tires on back of car. He says I should put the same Michelins on the front of car and it will make a huge difference in ride quality.

A) This sound right?

B) What tires do you guys use on stock rims for the best ride quality?


I guess thats about it.. I will use the search function for the 'how-to's' on alot of this fluid, and other general maintenance, just wanted your input on some of those subjects.

Thanks!

19psi

here we go again! lol just kidding...
i think we touched on diff fluid in a different thread, but you do have to change it. open the drain plug and look at the magnet and you'll see why. compare the sludgy old oil with new oil. it's the same as engine oil, the heat breaks it down over time; diff oil is just tougher so it can go longer and it doens't see the same amount of heat either.

post a pic of the paint splatter.

plugs should be 100k miles if he put in platinum factory plugs.
wires, usually about the same, kinda depends on different factors though. sometimes they will last longer.

the egr... oh yeah. i've done a couple of those at work. you don't have to move the transmissiion, but you do need some pretty good tools, like what a pro mechanic has, since the clearance is pretty tight in there. it's not a bad job to do, took me about 2 hours, pays 8. not that you would care!

i don't run stock wheels and tires on anything, but for thsoe of you who do, i'd recommend the kumho solus. excellent tire. you won't be able to tell the difference between that and a michelin. except that it'sa lmost a 2 for 1 deal!

Neofate

iTrader: (1)

Good stuff psi -- You have any recommendations on how I could get the EGR tube done for 'cheap' ? The mechanic charges 65 and hour and said he'd do half, which would be 5 hours at 65. Plus part. Its so much money for a 5minute rattle. Tough choice.

19psi

there's really no way i can think of without just doing it right. you're getting a deal at 5 hours labor @65.

Neofate

iTrader: (1)

Yeah I figured. It is just so amazing how much the labor is on that part. It is an annoying rattle, but it doesn't hurt anything. I suppose if it gets worse, and starts making the car sound like a tin can or something I'll fork out the dough.

It is just tough to spend 500+$ to stop a 'rattle' ..

But such is life, eh? I guess he knew better than to offer to fix that before I bought it.. He has his hands full with 3-4 cars in his shop that he works basically alone in. If he does anything on the Lexus its on his time off/weekends.

Though -- The powering.

He replaced the rack and pinion, but never the pump.

I checked fluid today and it is fine. I don't see any leaks,.. but it hasn't been long.

However, when I'm completely stopped,.. you can feel the wheel being tougher to turn, and sometimes it makes a noise .. not a screeching noise more of a slight noise as if your break pads were skimming the surface of your rotors but a deeper sound and not nearly as loud.

What does that sound like to you?

Otherwise it turns/steers like a dream. It doesn't go out randomly or anything.

He said if the Rack and pinion didn't solve it, he would put a PS pump on there for free -- Parts and labor on him.

I took a close look at the drive belt today and the PS pump.

Everything is smooth except that pully. It is like that pully wobbles a little. But you go to every other pully on every other device/balancer etc.. and they are perfect. I wonder if that is a direct indication of a bad pump? Hrmm..

I'm so hesitant to bring it in to him, because I just got it, its my only vehicle, and I'm afraid he will take 2 weeks to do the job. I am definitely going to give it a few weeks to verify the problem and specifics then give him a call I suppose. Lord knows he doesn't want to do any 'free' work after the sale, but he agreed to it. So he'll do it.

After the PS pump is replaced everything on the 'outside' of the engine has been replaced basically. Which is nice.

All that is left on the car that are 'old' are the suspension/bushings. But it still drives like a dream, so that can wait a bit.

VVT-i

Wow, sound like you got a great deal. I don't know how much you paid for the car,but keep in mind that you bought a 13 years old car with over 200K miles on it, so it's not gonna be perfect. I think the seller is very honest and probably don't want to sell this car since he did all the work himself. A good deal so far.

Neofate

iTrader: (1)

Most say I got a great deal, a few people say "man you got ripped off" .. But they are generally the jackarses on the forum that always come off rude. But everyone is entitled to their opinion.

By the way, I got the car for $4500. I can't imagine finding a better car for that low amount of money.

Anyhow, yes, the mechanic did all the work -- and he said twice he hated to see it go when we were closing the deal and looking at the car (when I had the keys and title). I think he is very honest,.. and is very nice with saying he will do the PS pump if it needs it, on him. Also he offers free labor for 6 months on any problems with the car should I bring the parts. (Aside from the 10yr EGR tube/pipe that needs replacing because of the exhaust leak) -- He said he would do that at half price. I don't blame him, he doesn't want to spend 5-7 hours working on a car for absolutely nothing.

I know the PS isn't completely fixed.. It is something I can live with easily, but with his offer I do want to get it fixed.

Edit: ** The noise is like a low dull Moaning noise from the engine compartment. Like the PS pump is working extra hard. -- Only happens at a complete stop, and at 1-2Mph , after 2Mph it is silent. -- It isn't your typical high pitched noise. Also of note, on a cold start, say I started the car before work the next morning. Then immediately turned the wheel side to side it will not make the noise. If I drive for 5-10minutes and then stop and turn it, the noise will be present.


Which is why I asked you guys -- If it makes that noise I described earlier at a stand still, and the pull on the PS pump wobbles a bit compared to perfect balance on all other pully's does that indicate anything at all?

You see, I know he isn't going to want to do free labor and buy a pump himself, and I will need definite proof it needs the pump. So I'm asking you guys about it, describing symptoms hoping to get some answers.

Like, what if it doesn't leak fluid at all,.. but is making this noise at stand still and such.. That isn't acceptable,.. He said he'd fix it,.. It is a new rack and pinion, so I would think the PS pump would be the only possible solution left.

Otherwise, maybe the Rack and pinion needs to be lubed or adjusted in some way?

The noise I describe is also intermittent,.. it does it most of the time, but it can also not do it.. Like when I picked the car up it didn't make the noise.. Yesterday when I drove it all over town I noticed it quite a bit.

Thoughts, ideas?

Thanks,

damon

EGR Tube,

Color me a jack *** cause I have a 94LS & have replaced this part before.
If you have no problem paying $500.00 or so then by all means have at it.

My post from 3/18/04 has the full procedure thanks to Sooners instructions.

If you have a non California model I would search my prior post on the subject you would be much better informed.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
schematic showed only the 4 bolts referenced by Sooner in previous post as accessible from top or bottom. The real world throws you a nasty curve on a 94 LS, The one he describes as in the back of the block will consume most of your time. Above the passenger side cat you will find 2 studs which are easy to remove from below, towards the firewall on top of the engine there are 2 bolts which are a simple task , but the bolt on the back of the engine above the transmission,( which did not appear on the schematic which I utilized as a reference) that Sooner mentions is an absolute bastard, Very little room between it and the firewall. I would by no means describe it's location as "visible".

3 bolts , 2 studs, 5 connection points total!

RESULTS: Sounds much better , but I had better see a mileage reward before my burns heal. Not kidding!!!

94 LS
EGR Pipe Part # 25601-50010
price $116.14 from Carson

Neofate

iTrader: (1)

I would be a little hesitant to do this job myself if the mechanic himself says it will take him every bit of 6-7 hours. I don't have access to a lift etc.. just jack and jackstands.

This would seem like a nightmare job for the first time.. no?

The only reason it cost so much is because of the time it takes to do it. Even at *HALF* price on his labor, it is 500$.

Though your pipe for 116$ is a bit cheaper than what he could get ..

His labor is $325.00

Add *your* part in:

325 + 117 = $442.00

Though I suppose after tax it is still close to $500.00.

Is there any jerry-rig type of fix for the EGR pipe/tube? Like a high heat substance that could be applied to the pipe to stop the leak? Or no such chance?

Thanks - (Oh and I'm mucho concerned about the Power Steering noise.. I'd like to get that one figured asap.. so if anyone can give me a test or something to do to verify that is, indeed, the issue -- I would be most grateful)

19psi

more than likely it is the pump going bad. mine does the same thing, i just don't care! i won't replace it until it gets really bad.
if the pump makes noise, but hte rack doesn't leak and your ps works fine, then you need a pump.

Neofate

iTrader: (1)

Someone told me in another thread that I should flush and fill my PS fluid, clean a whole bunch of screens/filters -- clean the rack filter.. etc etc. Then if it still was messed up, replace the pump.

I'm like you -- My rack is brand new.. it doesn't leak obviously.. Power steering works of course.. So what is left in the equation?

I will clean the filters/screens and whatever if I need to -- But this should be fairly obvious to someone who knows what they are talking about (I don't)

This is something a mechanic should be able to get in the car, turn the wheel and be like, yup it is 'insert problem'. Thats it.

I mean how many problems make this kind of noise with this consistency?

damon

A) Perhaps I was not clear. You do not have to move the engine or tranny to do this on a 94 non california.

B) My guess is the EGR pipe fails because the motor & tranny mounts are shot.

C) My guess is that if you utilized the upper & lower connection points of your cracked EGR pipe that a flexible exhaust hose would do the trick.

Neofate

iTrader: (1)

Interesting.. You have any more detail on 'your' method to make this a less time consuming job? At the least I may be able to show the mechanic (if he is willing to listen) -- An alternative way to this, and get a better deal. -- From your previous post and quote, I'm still fairly lost .. have any step by step instructions? Or can you spell it out in a way that a mechanic would understand if I told him hey, this is what I've figured out as a 'better way' to replace the EGR tube."

You are probably right -- The Motor and tranny mounts are less than a week old now, but this EGR problem manifested well before that. So likely the previously old/worn mounts allowed too much movement and allowed the pipe/tube to become damaged.

Thanks, I like to know the cause behind things. (Other than the rattling stopping, is there any other benefit of fixin this?) -- Also, the noise stops after the car heats up. I believe this is because the metal reshapes a little from the heat and basically seals itself at higher temp. Sound feasible?

You lost me -- All I know is EGR probably stands for Exhaust Gas Recirculation .. I know it is an exhaust tube/pipe. I know any leak in such tubing will cause noise -- (be it EGR, Headers, cats, piping, mufflers, and so on) I assume that the position of this particular tube is in about the worst possible spot imaginable.. Which makes a relatively inexpensive simple exhaust piece replacement an 8 hour job.

Laslty.. how can I determine if my car is a 'California' model? VIN number specification?

Thanks,

Neofate

iTrader: (1)

I would be with you if I didn't have a coupon for 'if pump is bad = free parts and labor' card -- I just want to be able to know what I am talking about when I call him or take it to him in person to tell him hey look the pump is, indeed, bad.. Lets order the part and let me know when I can bring this in for the fix?..

So you know my story with the mechanic.. his basic warranty with this used car was I'm fixing the Power steering (hence rack and pinion) -- He said if that didn't fix it.. he would put on a new pump at no cost .

So, how would you (or should I) phrase this to the Mechanic so that he basically is assured.. ok, yup, it is the pump .. I'll do it no problem.

I don't want him to be like.. (Is it leaking?) .. me -- "Nope" -- Well then it should be ok.. etc (trying to get out of it).. I kind of want to know what I am talking about regarding the issue so he has to back up his word.

Also I suspect this is a relatively 'easy' task. Drop the drive belt.. unhook some lines.. remove , put on new.. and maybe add some fluid. (Fluid is new atm).

Maybe an hour labor job?

19psi

what i'm getting at is that if everything is functioning properly, there are no leaks, fluid is fresh and the pump still makes noise, you need a pump. that's the symptom of a bad pump. of course, to some poeople, if it's working, then it's good even if it makes a noise. therein lies your problem.

regarding the egr replacement, there's really no step by step other than what was said earlier. remove the fasteners, replace tube. of course it's more complicated than that, but there's no trick to doing it without removing the trans, other than being sneaky and having the right tools. any good mechanic will look at it and see that it is possible without mving the trans, esp. if they made a career working on flat rate!