Hi guys,

Anybody ever have issues with using Rhino ramps with their SCs? I'm trying to use the ramps so I can change coolant and oil, but they just keep sliding out from under the car when I try to drive up them so that basically I just end up pushing the ramp across the floor. This is on a smooth concrete floor. Any thoughts on what I can do?

I don't have this problem with my small sedan, only with the SC3. I looked for sand to weigh the ramps down, but nobody around here says they sell it.

Appreciate any help at all.

JM

 

If you got an old rubber garden hose (or heater hose scraps) laying around, you can cut up some pieces and put a slit in them and insert them along the bottom edges of the ramp. They should do the most good along the sides closest to the tire.

Plastic hose is probably too slippery- rubber is better.

 

Cool. Will try that tomorrow. Thanks for the tip.

JM

 

Are those the big ramps made of metal? At our shop we had plastic and metal ones and they would both just be pushed around like you said. Most of the time, it was solved by driving up the thing at a faster speed (takes practice and is dangerous) or having a coworkers foot holding the ramp until you got to the top (this always works unless they're stupid and get scared).

 

I have the red ones made of metal, but I am pretty sure Rhinos are the black plastic ones, reinforced with a lot of cross ribs. In fact, now that I think about it, those cross ribs may interefere with placing a long scrap of hose along the bottom edge. You can either cut the hose into smaller pieces, or carefully trim some of the ribs so you have a longer edge to place the hose on.

Anything to increase the friction between the hard cement floor and the hard plastic ramps should work. Foam rubber (the kind used often in packaging) comes to mind.

 

I always thought the long nose of the car was the problem... when using those ramps..
I have a yellow set of those.. works fine for my 240sx.. but with the sc300 I just gave up and bought those 2 1/2 ton jacks.

 

Ended up cutting up rubber heater hose and attaching it to the bottoms. Took a while to get the whole thing done, but it works like a charm!!!

Definitely recommend this method.

JM

 

Glad it worked, JM!

Inabj2 - the long nose IS a problem, but the use of some wood "pre-ramps", like you see in the pic above, lifts the nose high enough to clear the top of the ramps.

 

I had the same problem, but after 5 or so tries, I simply drove up (somewhat) fast, and got on the ramps. I wouldn't recommend it though, since its very easy to overshoot the ramps and drive over the safety buffer if you're not careful.

Scott

 

Don't overshoot, or your ramps will get dented, like this!

 

I too have had these ramp problems. My front wheel drive cars would be fine, but my rear wheel drive cars that ive tried (ls400, gs430) always end up just pushing the ramps. The only thing I've found to work are either putting the leading edge of the ramps against the lip of my garage (where the driveway ends and the garage starts- my garage floor is slightly raised compared o my driveway). Also, i have a couple of 2 X 4's left over from construction- putting one end against the garage wall and another against the ramps will keep them from being pushed.

 

The older ramps have this problem alot. I just went and got a new set of Fiberglass ramps mabe by Blitz and they come with a rubber insert at the leading edge of the ramp. Keeps it planted firmly to the ground as soon as you get some pressure on it from the wheel.

Pre-ramps are still recommended though as my SC400 at stock height still had some issues with the stock lip hitting the incline of the ramp.

 

Griot's Garage Ramp with Extension Kit

I have the Griot Ramps with the kit. You can buy the kit separately. It fits into the holes on the steel ramps. My GS will not get up ramps without the extender kit.