In the process of diagonsis, I've come to the point where I need to have the ABS actuator not operative, so that it can be bypassed. By theory, and inoperative ABS actuator rests at open mode so that the fluid can flow as if there was no ABS in the car.
Is there a way to just put the ABS actuator to rest for this test purpose .
93 LS. Either a fuse for ABS that might do the trick. IF so where would that fuse be if any. and if there's no fuse for this year then what's another way ?
thnx.

 

In my 02 ES, I have at least 4 fuses associated with the ABS system. If you can't find a fuse or the right fuse, then why not just disconnect one of the ABS sensors. This will trip the system into thinking there is a problems, too. The conventional braking system will remain operational.

steviej

 

good idea there as well.
however with the fuse it would be easier to simply plug it back in and less time consuming.
thnx.

 

Yeah. You'd think.

But then you would be forgetting "Corporate Lawyers" who apparently mandated that the fuse NEVER come out without taking the entire fusebox apart.

The 60A "fusible link" (Toyota P/N 90982-08202) is bolted in FROM UNDERNEATH. Even AFTER you get it apart, there's still the devil to pay to get enough wiring slack to DO anything. (And no, I haven't been able to get that much slack yet.)

 

I learned a few more things.

The 90982-08202 60A fusible link arrived at the Wisconsin Lexus dealer the next day from Chicago.

1. Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery to remove the risk of frying something/everything.
2. You will have to remove the battery entirely if you need to reseat the foot of the lower half of the fusebox body into its locator hole.
3. The bolts holding the upper half of the fusebox body to the fender well are M6x1.0 (x25mm-ish) fender bolts. I didn't measure, but I did drop one and had to go to an auto parts store for a replacement which was slightly longer.
4. The upper fusebox body unclips from the lower body by three external tabs on the engine side of the lower body.
5. The high-current fuses are connected to a module which itself unclips from the inside of the upper body from three internal tabs around the perimeter of those fuses.
6. Once the high-current module is out, access to the screws holding the 60A and 140A fuses is easy with a 10mm socket or a, hefty, Phillips screwdriver.
7. I removed five or six of the modular connectors to get more wire slack before I discovered the inner module detaches. I imagine at least some of them will have to be removed. The connectors all seem to be one-of-a-kind so mis-reconnecting should be impossible. What is more likely is that you could miss reconnecting one in the wire confusion. Take pictures. Make notes. Label connectors.
8. The inner module snapped back into the upper body, when I figured out where to put fingers of the left hand underneath it to press upwards. The upper body snapped onto the lower body with some resistance, after care was taken to ensure wires nested among themselves relatively nicely.
9. Unfortunately, after getting the upper fusebox (towards the driver) mounting bolt in, I found the lower hole (towards the headlight) standing about 1/2" above its mating hole. Ultimately I discovered the "locator foot" molded into the bottom fusebox body, intended to sit down inside a locator hole in the frame. I also discovered that there was nowhere to pry to influence the foot towards its hole--which could only be felt with a finger, and not seen, even after removing the battery.
10. After removing the battery, I was only successful in moving the foot into the hole by a desperate exasperated exertion. I would say I was lucky. However, I was also overdue for a little luck on this stupid exercise.
11. With the foot in the hole, the lower body sat lower and the upper body's mounting holes lined up with the fender well's when clipped into the lower.
12. PUT YOUR WORKING KEY IN THE IGNITION. You can leave it in the OFF position. When the computer wakes up with the battery reconnection, it looks for a key; if it doesn't find one, it sets off the alarm. In your good ear. And you hit your head on the hood. And drop the terminal connector. And have to do it all over. Connect the positive terminal first. Otherwise, clearances are tight enough that you could ground your wrench. And see sparks. And hit your head on the hood.