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Old Jul 17, 2005 | 03:13 PM
  #16  
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Default not related but traction bleeding question.

vvti: perhaps I can ask you a question while we have your attention here in this thread:
I'm trying to find out how to manually run the traction motor on the 90LS400 so that the two bleeder traction valves can be used to take out the air. THe manual states that the traction motor shold be run while bleeding. but when I turn on the engine and open the bleeder valves nothing comes out of it. any suggestions ? thanks.
More over, on the 90LS there is only one bleeder valve at the traction actuator. There's not valve at the traction accumulator next to the master cylinder. the 93 and above LS do have the bleeder valve at the accumulators. Does this mean that the 90LS only has one bleeder valve for the whole traction system which is at the actuator below the air intake pipe at the right front of the vehicle ?
thnx in advance.
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Old Jul 17, 2005 | 04:41 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Lexs400
vvti: perhaps I can ask you a question while we have your attention here in this thread:
thnx in advance.
Off topic:I know your car have a lot of problems with braking system. I did replied on some of your thread. Please understand that only so much I can do while working fulltime and then moderate this forum as my pleasure to help out( when I can/ if I can).
I will post to your thread as soon as I find out what it's take to bleed the brake system on your LS.
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Old Jul 17, 2005 | 06:40 PM
  #18  
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vvti : all your input is always appreciated. Looking forward to your comments on the brake bleeding system
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Old Jul 24, 2005 | 03:00 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Inabj2
Problem has been FIXED!!!!!!!!!!!!

Finally I started the car and she ran smooth as silk I can't thank you enough VVTI!!!! Here is how the original pipe connector looked!!!!

This ends the saga of egr malfunction!

Note however one of the brand spanking new denzo plugs that I removed was broken, although I might of broken at removal or if it was broken in first place I am not sure.. For now (this was at 1 am I am running an autolite which will be replaced, by at least ngk if not another denzo later today after radiator job is done. Ive come to realize that timing belt needs to be replaced, a job that will be done not next weekend but weekend after that. Ill tackle the radiator after the car cools down.

Some more.
Is there anyway u can clean that pipe by soakin it some kind of solvent rather than replacin it?
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Old Jul 24, 2005 | 05:40 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by xknowonex
Is there anyway u can clean that pipe by soakin it some kind of solvent rather than replacin it?

Soaking it wont do anything. That thing was down right filthy... And the pipe compartment where the egr connected too.. looks very restricted when it comes to cleaning it.

At less then 80 dollars fortunately this was not a pricey part to replace.
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Old Jul 24, 2005 | 04:59 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by workaholic
Please get a video of your car on fire.. then we can send it in to big-boys.com
hahaha funny

glad your care is running smooth now
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Old Aug 3, 2005 | 11:09 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Inabj2
Soaking it wont do anything. That thing was down right filthy... And the pipe compartment where the egr connected too.. looks very restricted when it comes to cleaning it.

At less then 80 dollars fortunately this was not a pricey part to replace.
You can knock the carbon build up and clean it with brake clean. This is a known problem on older 2jz.
JP Importz
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Old Sep 1, 2007 | 10:42 AM
  #23  
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Default

Originally Posted by Inabj2
Problem has been FIXED!!!!!!!!!!!!

Finally I started the car and she ran smooth as silk I can't thank you enough VVTI!!!! Here is how the original pipe connector looked!!!!

This ends the saga of egr malfunction!

Note however one of the brand spanking new denzo plugs that I removed was broken, although I might of broken at removal or if it was broken in first place I am not sure.. For now (this was at 1 am I am running an autolite which will be replaced, by at least ngk if not another denzo later today after radiator job is done. Ive come to realize that timing belt needs to be replaced, a job that will be done not next weekend but weekend after that. Ill tackle the radiator after the car cools down.

Some more.
So did you just clean it & replace a seal or??
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Old Sep 1, 2007 | 11:16 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by rachel
So did you just clean it & replace a seal or??
Wow this is old....


Replaced.
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Old Sep 9, 2007 | 02:57 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Inabj2
Ive been having this problem for the last 3 months and I am absolutely ****ing sick of it!!!!!

The car had a hesitation ah stalling at idle and it failed emmisions horribly, barely passing co2 and being about 4 times higher then the limit for NOx.

3 months I spent money on first cleaning and finnally buying and replacing...

Egr Valve brand new. I made 2 cleaning attempts on the old one before breaking down and buying the new one.
EGR Modulator I bought it a month ago...
EGR temp sensor accidentally broke the first one and bought a new one...
Total money wasted at a discount..$300.98 bucks.. plus miscellanios stuff like break cleaners little brushes, etc etc.

I finish my install and go to sleep, I start the car with everything hooked up like it should be and sure enough Like I did absolutely noting, ok hesitation was... slightly less then before but its still there. And 3 times during this whole 3 month process have I gotten CEL 71 to appear.

It hesistates more now when I have it in gear vs not in gear, it idles up and down from about 650-800 rpm, IE Hesitation happens more when in L,2, D and R, vs not as bad when its in P or N. And stutters.

Its driving me crazy I want to pass this ****ing car emmissions already my registration will go to about 2 months expired!@!!!

Tune up was done recently like about 6 months ago at this time fuel filter and spark plugs were replaced, the rotor and dist cap was replaced roughly a year and 9 months ago along with the spark plug wires, which are oem stuff.

Right now I have ran out of ideas in what to do.. Please anyone that knows about the subject what now?

I replaced the main components of egr WHAT could possibly be the ****ing problem now?!?!
That would have been quite a fire out here, I could have brought mine too and the marshmallows, I wish I would have read this thread a few mths ago when I took mine in. I was 10 times over the limit on the fuel and 5 times over the limit on the NOX. But I qualified for that program they offer and the shop replaced all of that stuff in your threads or replys plus the cat convert,and the o2 sensors , So it ended up only costing 117.90 something out of pocket and mine was doing the same thing. also I am having the same problems with the pump and the overheating issues you are having, its not just our weather,cuz I'll overheat on the way home at 11:30 at night,sometimes,except my leak is more like a flow
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Old Sep 9, 2007 | 09:57 PM
  #26  
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I never had overheating issues. Until briefly due to a leak on a heater hose. This car was much more stressful 2.5 years ago, when I made roughly 3 times less then what I do now.

If you over heat check your coolant level first. You probably have air trapped in your coolant system. And or a leak in one of your lines. When working properly the car should stay cool regardless how hot it gets.
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Old Oct 4, 2017 | 07:37 AM
  #27  
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Drizell
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is it too late to say Burn baby burn, disco Inferno! Now that the freaken car is fixed and it is actually in a sellable condition... Lets go ahead and move that forward shall We?
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