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Old 01-14-05, 03:08 PM   #31
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I feel that Mobil 1 and Amsoil Xl series are about the same.
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Old 01-15-05, 01:27 AM   #32
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Old 01-15-05, 06:45 AM   #33
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And why? Still stands to it Mobil 1 is about the same level as Amsoil XL ser-ies. Go on BITOG and read about this. I also say they are close since Amsoil goesfor 7500 miles and 99% of Mobil 1 users go that ammount of sooner. Nothing new. Is Mobil a good oil, sure but for the price in them, mobil stopped doing longer OCI, I would not use Mobil 1.

Nevermind the fact that both their (XL and Mobil 1) in properties are very very close.

Next bring in Amsoil ASL series which is calcium and magnesium based, while Mobil is primarily Calcium. Are both good oils sure, but oneis made to go longer (as stated by the manufacture).

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Old 01-15-05, 06:58 AM   #34
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Ok here is a non-used oil sample of Mobil 1 5W-40 Truck & SUV. Does not a few things stick out??? hmmm ....I see a few that are very low to use in an extended oil drain case.

Iron 2
Chromium 0
Lead 0
Copper 0
Tin 0
Aluminum 1
Nickel 0
Silver 0
Silicon 4
Boron 39
Sodium 0
Magnesium 458
Calcium 2023
Barium 0
Phosphorus 994
Zinc 1352
Molybdenum 0
Titanium 0
Vanadium 0
Potassium 0
Fuel <1
Water 0
Glycol NEG
Nitration 10
Oxidation 15
Visc100 14.6
TBN 11.2

XL-7500/Mobil 1, 5w-30...Pretty close. Nevermind the high FBW result

HT/HS: 3.1 Cp/3.1 Cp
Flash Point: 453F/455F
Noack: 8.8%/9.2%
TBN: 10.2/11-12
Pour Point: -60F/-54F
VI: 196/169
Four Ball Wear: .38 mm/.60 mm

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Old 01-15-05, 10:22 AM   #35
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This is a quote from HarrierAWD in the RX forums related to the engine sludge issue. He states that Mobil 1 was a 'full synthetic' several years ago but is not now & is simply a more 'refined' dino oil because of Castrol Syntec. He's not 100% sure if this is right, but it's what he heard......I will post the quote below......any comments mburn?

"I could be wrong, but here's what I understand....

Mobil One used to be real synthetic. Then Castrol Syntec came out. It is more refined dino yet claimed to be synthetic. (Not illegal since there's no legal standard on the term "synthetic" for motor oil.)

Mobil cried foul and asked FTC to force Castrol to remove the term synthetic. It didn't go anywhere. So Mobil decided to use refine dino as well, since it's cheaper to make."
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Old 01-15-05, 10:31 AM   #36
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I'm also suprised that you put Royal Purple synthetic oil in "group 3" (5 being the best) because of the cost of the oil per qt or litre. Amsoil is the least expensive of all the 'high end' synthetics after Mobil 1 & Redline is simply astronomical in the stores that carry it.

My overall proble is, Toyota / Lexus states in my owners manual that I can go 6 months or 8,000 kms (5,000 miles) between oil changes for the type of driving I do..........but I worry about the engine gelling problem even though the car is covered under Lexus extended warranty & the 8 year free replacement TSB Lexus / Toyota offers to owners. I change my oil at lease 3 - 4 times a year anyways because of this & I use either a K & N or a Mobil 1 oil filter as I'm not convinced that a Toyota oil filter is better with all the research I have done on the net with oil filters.....they will do the job, but I think the aftermarket are better choices from what I have read.

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Old 01-15-05, 03:21 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lexusfreak
This is a quote from HarrierAWD in the RX forums related to the engine sludge issue. He states that Mobil 1 was a 'full synthetic' several years ago but is not now & is simply a more 'refined' dino oil because of Castrol Syntec. He's not 100% sure if this is right, but it's what he heard......I will post the quote below......any comments mburn?

"I could be wrong, but here's what I understand....

Mobil One used to be real synthetic. Then Castrol Syntec came out. It is more refined dino yet claimed to be synthetic. (Not illegal since there's no legal standard on the term "synthetic" for motor oil.)

Mobil cried foul and asked FTC to force Castrol to remove the term synthetic. It didn't go anywhere. So Mobil decided to use refine dino as well, since it's cheaper to make."
Anything from a group 3 to 5 can be called a synthetic. Mobil 1 is 85% PAO (group 4) with some carrier adds. The problem with Mobil I feel is that they have WAY to mych name. SuperySyn, tri, drive clean, System-S Full Synthetic etc. Most of their ZDDP are very low.
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Old 01-15-05, 03:32 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lexusfreak
I'm also suprised that you put Royal Purple synthetic oil in "group 3" (5 being the best) because of the cost of the oil per qt or litre. Amsoil is the least expensive of all the 'high end' synthetics after Mobil 1 & Redline is simply astronomical in the stores that carry it. :

I should have stated what Royal Purple are whe talkeing regular oil or the racing? One is a 3 and one is a PAO/ester based. Amsoil and Redline are way above Royal Purple but that is me.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Lexusfreak
My overall proble is, Toyota / Lexus states in my owners manual that I can go 6 months or 8,000 kms (5,000 miles) between oil changes for the type of driving I do..........but I worry about the engine gelling problem even though the car is covered under Lexus extended warranty & the 8 year free replacement TSB Lexus / Toyota offers to owners. I change my oil at lease 3 - 4 times a year anyways because of this & I use either a K & N or a Mobil 1 oil filter as I'm not convinced that a Toyota oil filter is better with all the research I have done on the net with oil filters.....they will do the job, but I think the aftermarket are better choices from what I have read.

I would not worry at all if using Amsoil. I have been doing extended drain for alomst 3 years on my 98 lexus and been doing since 97 on all cars/bike/tractors/trucks. I would however do an oil test (1) per year too see what is up. I know my 12,200 mile oil change using Amsoil's ASL looked damn good. There are key areas you would need to look at as I have stated on my webpage. I like a Baldmin or Amsoil oil filter but that is me.

Any questions ask. If you do a lot of stop and go, I would look at the areas on concern on these sludge engines and then the normal areas. It is very easy to do and Lexas can not tell you anything. I am shooting for 15K miles on my current oil
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Old 01-15-05, 04:27 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mburnickas
I should have stated what Royal Purple are whe talkeing regular oil or the racing? One is a 3 and one is a PAO/ester based. Amsoil and Redline are way above Royal Purple but that is me.





I would not worry at all if using Amsoil. I have been doing extended drain for alomst 3 years on my 98 lexus and been doing since 97 on all cars/bike/tractors/trucks. I would however do an oil test (1) per year too see what is up. I know my 12,200 mile oil change using Amsoil's ASL looked damn good. There are key areas you would need to look at as I have stated on my webpage. I like a Baldmin or Amsoil oil filter but that is me.

Any questions ask. If you do a lot of stop and go, I would look at the areas on concern on these sludge engines and then the normal areas. It is very easy to do and Lexas can not tell you anything. I am shooting for 15K miles on my current oil
I got a question, what do you think about this, in the LS1 the Amsoil went from 5w30 to 15w40 after 14k http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/s.../oil-life.html

since you do long intervals, and run amsoil whats your take
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Old 01-15-05, 04:56 PM   #40
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I saw that a few months ago. Since using Amsoil back in 1995/1996. It goes up and then it goes down in viscosity. It depends on the car being tested. Not (1) car is the same.

My ES, after 12,290 miles on one oil change, went from a 5w-30 to a slight bit (13.56 ) intot the 40 range. A 40 weight is from 12.50-16.29 and a 5w-30 is from 9.30 to 12.49) ..nothing major at all.

Last edited by mburnickas; 01-16-05 at 06:24 AM.
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Old 01-16-05, 10:05 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mburnickas
I should have stated what Royal Purple are whe talkeing regular oil or the racing? One is a 3 and one is a PAO/ester based. Amsoil and Redline are way above Royal Purple but that is me.





I would not worry at all if using Amsoil. I have been doing extended drain for alomst 3 years on my 98 lexus and been doing since 97 on all cars/bike/tractors/trucks. I would however do an oil test (1) per year too see what is up. I know my 12,200 mile oil change using Amsoil's ASL looked damn good. There are key areas you would need to look at as I have stated on my webpage. I like a Baldmin or Amsoil oil filter but that is me.

Any questions ask. If you do a lot of stop and go, I would look at the areas on concern on these sludge engines and then the normal areas. It is very easy to do and Lexas can not tell you anything. I am shooting for 15K miles on my current oil
I am seriously considering a switch to Amsoil (ASL) 5W 30 (if the price is reasonable). On 'overall' average, I'd say I do 70% city & 30% highway driving. Having said that, I think that almost always even in city driving my engine & tranny does get to 'normal operating temperature'. So I'm not sure if there is much (if any) benefit to making the switch to Amsoil or stay with Mobil 1. I'm happy however with either my Mobil 1 & K & N oil filters.....as the Amsoil filters are quite expensive.

I'm also debating whether or not to use Amsoil synthetic ATF (their website states that it is compatable with Toyota Type IV fluid), but I don't want to do any damage & end up with a bill of several thousand because my tranny failed as I used the wrong fluid.
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Old 01-16-05, 11:07 AM   #42
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The price of the oil and filter is not really an issue since the serve life is longer. If you are doing OCI there is no benefit. If you are doing longer drains, you will notice a difference. If you also do an oil test, you will see the difference. My driving is MAX 16.5 miles one way to work and the other is little stops here and there. The 16.5 miles to work is not over 45 MPH to 50 MPH.

I spend $27.5 for oil ( 6 qts) + $16 for (2) oil filters. For a total of $43.50 for 1-year.

I am currently using there ATF in my ES. Going on 40K miles using it and so far, the fluid is red and smell very good (not burnt) after 35K mile interval. If Amsoil states it meets the required specification of Lexus, if does and stop worrying. Boy, it sounds like Lexus has got you scared.

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Old 01-16-05, 08:45 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mburnickas
The price of the oil and filter is not really an issue since the serve life is longer. If you are doing OCI there is no benefit. If you are doing longer drains, you will notice a difference. If you also do an oil test, you will see the difference. My driving is MAX 16.5 miles one way to work and the other is little stops here and there. The 16.5 miles to work is not over 45 MPH to 50 MPH.

I spend $27.5 for oil ( 6 qts) + $16 for (2) oil filters. For a total of $43.50 for 1-year.

I am currently using there ATF in my ES. Going on 40K miles using it and so far, the fluid is red and smell very good (not burnt) after 35K mile interval. If Amsoil states it meets the required specification of Lexus, if does and stop worrying. Boy, it sounds like Lexus has got you scared.
Not scared, just since I have been a member of this club & LOC I have heard horror stories with repair bills in the thousands as far as the ATF is concerned.

As for the engine oil, I have a Lexus extended warranty for another year or 55,000 miles (which ever comes first of course ). The problem I have is I have to follow the oil change intervals stated by Lexus to keep my warranty valid should anything (knock on wood) happen if I extended the drain intervals even with Amsoil. I just like the absolute best possible fluids I can get in my cars.

Where do I get that special kind of water you mentioned with regards to the engine coolant?

Last edited by Lexusfreak; 01-17-05 at 03:54 AM.
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Old 01-17-05, 01:36 AM   #44
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I have been an AMSOIL user for many years, and I state that I am VERY HAPPY with all of their products.

It took a bit of a mindset change to accept that AMSOIL could actually last as long as it does. I had that same problem when I decided to first switch to synthetic from conventional oil.

Nearly all of the cars I used AMSOILsynthetic oil on were out of warranty. Most car manufacturers will not honor engine claims made on cars that do not adhere to their oil change regimen. The only thing I can tell you is that the difference between regular oil and synthetic is like night and day, and there is a big difference between Mobil 1 and AMSOIL.

After 12 years of using Mobil 1 exclusively, I began using AMSOIL and never looked back. I tried AMSOIL back in 1981, but because of its' limited access, and high cost, (compared to regular oil in those days,) I went back to regular oil for awhile, but knew I needed better oil. That is when I started using Mobil 1.

That went well until about 1999 or 2000, when I noticed the oil looked, smelled and felt different. Further reading revealed that the formula was changed, and it is no longer a full PAO synthetic. I found an AMSOIL dealer, and the rest is history. I love the way it performs.

Currently I drive a 99 GS400, a 97 Ford Explorer V8, a 2000 VW Beetle 4 cylinder gas engine, and now a 2003 Hyundai Elantra GT. Even though it is still in warranty, I elected to stop the reguilar oil change interval and go full synthetic on extended drain program. I have CONFIDENCE that I made the right choice. The transmission fluid was flushed at 30,000 miles. New AMSOIL Fluid was installed, and the difference between the old oil and new is dramatic. The transmission shifts better than ever.

The AMSOIL Universal Transmission fluid is AWESOME to say the least. I have it all the automatic transmissions, and even the power steering systems on the VW, Lexus and Ford so far. The fluid stays so clean for so long, I am simply amazed. The change interval is at least 3 times as long as conventional transmission fluid.

I finally changed the fluid on the 2000 VW after 100,000 miles on the original VW/AUDI fluid. The original transmission fluid is designed to last forever (if you believe the VW manual), but it really doesn't. It lasts a long time,. but after 100,000 miles I decided to change my fluid and filter, and realized I should have changed it sooner.....it was filthy as well. Replacement fluid cost $16.00 per QUART from VW, so I decided to try the AMSOIL Universal Transmission fluid instead. It was a great move, and I have never regretted it.

When I got my first pre-owned GS400, the FIRST change I made was to AMSOIL. The power steering fluid was FILTHY. It had 79,000 miles on the same fluid. The dealer charges EXTRA to change power steering fluid, so many times, it never gets done.

I flushed it 3 or 4 times to get out the dirt and grit and then serviced it. I think it will go along way towards preventing premature power steering pump and gearbox failure. Many Lexus power steering systems go bad because this fluid is never changed. Then when the car has a few hundred thousand miles on it, there is a huge repair bill for a pump or a rack that could have been avoided. Also, whenever the power steering pump seals leak, the fluid usually drips onto the alternator directly below it on the GS4, so it won't be long before the fluid will short it out. A replacement can cost nearly $1000.00. Just a word to the wise.

I also used the 85W-90 Gear oil for the differential. It is as good as the rest of the AMSOIL line. I even broke tradition and used the Propylene Antifreeze for the cooling system. The first car performed FLAWLESSLY. I did the timing belt, water pump, thermostat, spark plugs and all fluids..THEN 1 month later, the car was totaled in an accident. Imagine how heart broken I was. I got another preowned 1999 GS400, and I am starting to do the same thing to this car. I will not be satisfied until I get ALL the fluids changed to AMSOIL.

All of Amsoil's products are designed for the LONG haul. Maximum dollar value can be achieved when their products are used in extended drain programs. There is simply NO NEED to change the fluids as you would a conventional fluid.

The products work, but actually you should do what makes you feel the most comfortable. The AMSOIL will offer a better level of protection even if used conventionally, BUT you are wasting money by changiing it early.

If you just can't accept the fact that you can extend your drain intervals with AMSOIL, then maybe you should stick with conventional fluids and changing everything normally.

Just my $.02

Last edited by gserep1; 01-17-05 at 01:44 AM.
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Old 01-17-05, 04:05 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gserep1
I have been an AMSOIL user for many years, and I state that I am VERY HAPPY with all of their products.

It took a bit of a mindset change to accept that AMSOIL could actually last as long as it does. I had that same problem when I decided to first switch to synthetic from conventional oil.

Nearly all of the cars I used AMSOILsynthetic oil on were out of warranty. Most car manufacturers will not honor engine claims made on cars that do not adhere to their oil change regimen. The only thing I can tell you is that the difference between regular oil and synthetic is like night and day, and there is a big difference between Mobil 1 and AMSOIL.

After 12 years of using Mobil 1 exclusively, I began using AMSOIL and never looked back. I tried AMSOIL back in 1981, but because of its' limited access, and high cost, (compared to regular oil in those days,) I went back to regular oil for awhile, but knew I needed better oil. That is when I started using Mobil 1.

That went well until about 1999 or 2000, when I noticed the oil looked, smelled and felt different. Further reading revealed that the formula was changed, and it is no longer a full PAO synthetic. I found an AMSOIL dealer, and the rest is history. I love the way it performs.

Currently I drive a 99 GS400, a 97 Ford Explorer V8, a 2000 VW Beetle 4 cylinder gas engine, and now a 2003 Hyundai Elantra GT. Even though it is still in warranty, I elected to stop the reguilar oil change interval and go full synthetic on extended drain program. I have CONFIDENCE that I made the right choice. The transmission fluid was flushed at 30,000 miles. New AMSOIL Fluid was installed, and the difference between the old oil and new is dramatic. The transmission shifts better than ever.

The AMSOIL Universal Transmission fluid is AWESOME to say the least. I have it all the automatic transmissions, and even the power steering systems on the VW, Lexus and Ford so far. The fluid stays so clean for so long, I am simply amazed. The change interval is at least 3 times as long as conventional transmission fluid.

I finally changed the fluid on the 2000 VW after 100,000 miles on the original VW/AUDI fluid. The original transmission fluid is designed to last forever (if you believe the VW manual), but it really doesn't. It lasts a long time,. but after 100,000 miles I decided to change my fluid and filter, and realized I should have changed it sooner.....it was filthy as well. Replacement fluid cost $16.00 per QUART from VW, so I decided to try the AMSOIL Universal Transmission fluid instead. It was a great move, and I have never regretted it.

When I got my first pre-owned GS400, the FIRST change I made was to AMSOIL. The power steering fluid was FILTHY. It had 79,000 miles on the same fluid. The dealer charges EXTRA to change power steering fluid, so many times, it never gets done.

I flushed it 3 or 4 times to get out the dirt and grit and then serviced it. I think it will go along way towards preventing premature power steering pump and gearbox failure. Many Lexus power steering systems go bad because this fluid is never changed. Then when the car has a few hundred thousand miles on it, there is a huge repair bill for a pump or a rack that could have been avoided. Also, whenever the power steering pump seals leak, the fluid usually drips onto the alternator directly below it on the GS4, so it won't be long before the fluid will short it out. A replacement can cost nearly $1000.00. Just a word to the wise.

I also used the 85W-90 Gear oil for the differential. It is as good as the rest of the AMSOIL line. I even broke tradition and used the Propylene Antifreeze for the cooling system. The first car performed FLAWLESSLY. I did the timing belt, water pump, thermostat, spark plugs and all fluids..THEN 1 month later, the car was totaled in an accident. Imagine how heart broken I was. I got another preowned 1999 GS400, and I am starting to do the same thing to this car. I will not be satisfied until I get ALL the fluids changed to AMSOIL.

All of Amsoil's products are designed for the LONG haul. Maximum dollar value can be achieved when their products are used in extended drain programs. There is simply NO NEED to change the fluids as you would a conventional fluid.

The products work, but actually you should do what makes you feel the most comfortable. The AMSOIL will offer a better level of protection even if used conventionally, BUT you are wasting money by changiing it early.

If you just can't accept the fact that you can extend your drain intervals with AMSOIL, then maybe you should stick with conventional fluids and changing everything normally.

Just my $.02
Thanks for your thoughts gs.....I appreciate what you have said about both the Amsoil engine oil & the ATF fluids. I want to see if I can find a "small" Amsoil dealer & perhaps purchase these products 'under the table' to save money on taxes & such & give them a try I am going to Florida in March so it well be a 'extended drain interval'. I take it your 99 GS calls for Toyota Type IV tranny fluid as well?

What do the Amsoil oil filters cost out of couriosity? & How do they compare with the Mobil 1 & K & N oil filters?
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