A/C recharge
Thread Starter
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
A/C recharge
I bought a couple of R12 from E-bay and am ready to recharge the A/C of my 1990 LS400. Need some specific help:
1. Where's exactly the low-pressure connector for recharging?
2. Where is the side galss to check for bubble?
3. How much R12 should I add on?
4. If someone else had done so, any specific advice?
Thanks!
__________________
1. Where's exactly the low-pressure connector for recharging?
2. Where is the side galss to check for bubble?
3. How much R12 should I add on?
4. If someone else had done so, any specific advice?
Thanks!
__________________
Thread Starter
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
A/C recharge
I bought a couple of R12 from E-bay and am ready to recharge the A/C of my 1990 LS400. Need some specific help:
1. Where's exactly the low-pressure connector for recharging?
2. Where is the side galss to check for bubble?
3. How much R12 should I add on?
4. If someone else had done so, any specific advice?
Thanks!
__________________
1. Where's exactly the low-pressure connector for recharging?
2. Where is the side galss to check for bubble?
3. How much R12 should I add on?
4. If someone else had done so, any specific advice?
Thanks!
__________________
Lexus Champion
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 2,781
Likes: 6
From: Georgia
You may need to get your AC system a proper diagnostic by certified AC technician and find out where the freon went before recharge it will expensive R-12.
BTW, it is against the law to sell the R-12 freon to any none certified individual.
BTW, it is against the law to sell the R-12 freon to any none certified individual.
Lexus Champion
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 3,350
Likes: 6
From: California
Recharging an AC system can be dangerous if you don't know what you are doing. You cannot charge by tempature, only by pressure via a gauge set or recovery machine.
The first gen LS400 takes 2.1 lbs R-12 or 1.75 lbs of R-134a. my AC tech said low side is usually in the 30s/175 high side. Low pressure port is under the cruise control box, sight glass is by the passenger side headlamp. I would just have a mechanic do it.
The first gen LS400 takes 2.1 lbs R-12 or 1.75 lbs of R-134a. my AC tech said low side is usually in the 30s/175 high side. Low pressure port is under the cruise control box, sight glass is by the passenger side headlamp. I would just have a mechanic do it.
Pole Position
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 227
Likes: 0
From: California
PROCEDURE IF THE AC SYSTEM STILL BLOWS SLIGHTLY TO MODERATELY COLD AIR:
Adding R12 is almost as easy as adding air to a tire using a bicycle pump.
1. Screw the charging hose onto the tire like scrader valve (the one with the
black plastic cap on it like this):
http://www.saber.net/~monarch/acrecharge.jpg Always keep can UPRIGHT.
2. Turn the valve on the can tap mechanism counter clockwise to
release the refrigerant into the system while engine is idling with the AC
on with temp control set to 65 degrees. If refrigerant seems to flow too slowly,
immerse the can in a cup of 100 - 105 degree water.
3. Stop adding refrigerant after adding 1/2 to 3/4 can of R12.
Check the center dash vent temperature. If around 32-42 degrees
don't add anymore refrigerant. http://www.saber.net/~monarch/accold.jpg
4. Check the refrigerant sight glass by the left edge of the grille
when the hood is open. With engine idling and after the AC has been
on continuously for at least 2 minutes of more, slight glass should be clear or
have some bubbles, but not a continuous stream of foam. If a
continuous stream of thick foam, add another 1/4 can of refrigerant, but
no more. Remember - run system for at least 2 minutes before checking
sight glass because during the first 2 minutes sight glass is likely
to be foamy even if the system is not low on refrigerant.
The only real dangerous part of all this is attaching the can tap valve
to the can. Grease the top of the can to help lube it before attaching
the can tap valve. In some cases the can tap valve will accidentally cut a hole in
the can of R12, causing the refrigerant to squirt out and cause
blindness if it hits the eyes. For this reason, wear eye protection.
Also good idea to wear gloves to prevent frostbite in case of liquid
refrigerant squirting out and hitting the skin. R12 Refrigerant is 21 degrees
BELOW zero!
PROCEDURE IF THE AC SYSTEM IS TOTALLY EMPTY OF REFRIGERANT (NOT EVEN
COOL AIR COMES OUT AND / OR COMPRESSOR WON'T RUN.
1. AC shop must determine source of the leak and fix the leak.
2. Receiver-drier must be changed and 2-4 ounces of compressor oil
added to the system. Use Densoil #6 - as special Toyota approved oil available only from
Toyota and other Japanese car dealers.
3. A vacuum pump must be attached to the system to draw a deep
vaccuum for 20 minutes or so.
4. Then add three 12 ounce cans of R12 or 2 1/2 14 ounce cans.
PROCEDURE IF THE AC SYSTEM STILL HAS A LITTLE PRESSURE AND
REFRIGERANT (INDICATED BY A HISSING NOISE WHEN THE SCHRADER VALVE
IS DEPRESSED) BUT NOT ENOUGH TO ALLOW THE COMPRESSOR TO RUN
1. Screw the charging hose onto the tire like scrader valve (the one with the
black plastic cap on it like this):
http://www.saber.net/~monarch/acrecharge.jpg But keep engine off
since compressor won't run anyway.
2. Heat the can of R12 in hot water (110 degrees, but not more than 120
degrees) to force refrigerant into the system. This could take quite
awhile (10+ minutes). After most of 1 can has been dispensed into the
system, see if the compressor will run when you start the engine and
turn on the AC system. If not, shut off motor and add a second can.
If compressor still won't run, something is seriously wrong with the
compressor or wiring / switches / AC controls, etc.
We live in a strange society. In the 60's - 80's people generally drove their cars pretty slowly, calmly
and responsibly and it was routine for car owners to add their own refrigerant because the
risks of severe injury were relatively low. Now in the 21st century people
drive wildly fast and recklessly, but think adding R12 is a dangerous procedure
that should only be attempted by trained AC professionals. Strangely reversed perceptions of risk.
Adding R12 is almost as easy as adding air to a tire using a bicycle pump.
1. Screw the charging hose onto the tire like scrader valve (the one with the
black plastic cap on it like this):
http://www.saber.net/~monarch/acrecharge.jpg Always keep can UPRIGHT.
2. Turn the valve on the can tap mechanism counter clockwise to
release the refrigerant into the system while engine is idling with the AC
on with temp control set to 65 degrees. If refrigerant seems to flow too slowly,
immerse the can in a cup of 100 - 105 degree water.
3. Stop adding refrigerant after adding 1/2 to 3/4 can of R12.
Check the center dash vent temperature. If around 32-42 degrees
don't add anymore refrigerant. http://www.saber.net/~monarch/accold.jpg
4. Check the refrigerant sight glass by the left edge of the grille
when the hood is open. With engine idling and after the AC has been
on continuously for at least 2 minutes of more, slight glass should be clear or
have some bubbles, but not a continuous stream of foam. If a
continuous stream of thick foam, add another 1/4 can of refrigerant, but
no more. Remember - run system for at least 2 minutes before checking
sight glass because during the first 2 minutes sight glass is likely
to be foamy even if the system is not low on refrigerant.
The only real dangerous part of all this is attaching the can tap valve
to the can. Grease the top of the can to help lube it before attaching
the can tap valve. In some cases the can tap valve will accidentally cut a hole in
the can of R12, causing the refrigerant to squirt out and cause
blindness if it hits the eyes. For this reason, wear eye protection.
Also good idea to wear gloves to prevent frostbite in case of liquid
refrigerant squirting out and hitting the skin. R12 Refrigerant is 21 degrees
BELOW zero!
PROCEDURE IF THE AC SYSTEM IS TOTALLY EMPTY OF REFRIGERANT (NOT EVEN
COOL AIR COMES OUT AND / OR COMPRESSOR WON'T RUN.
1. AC shop must determine source of the leak and fix the leak.
2. Receiver-drier must be changed and 2-4 ounces of compressor oil
added to the system. Use Densoil #6 - as special Toyota approved oil available only from
Toyota and other Japanese car dealers.
3. A vacuum pump must be attached to the system to draw a deep
vaccuum for 20 minutes or so.
4. Then add three 12 ounce cans of R12 or 2 1/2 14 ounce cans.
PROCEDURE IF THE AC SYSTEM STILL HAS A LITTLE PRESSURE AND
REFRIGERANT (INDICATED BY A HISSING NOISE WHEN THE SCHRADER VALVE
IS DEPRESSED) BUT NOT ENOUGH TO ALLOW THE COMPRESSOR TO RUN
1. Screw the charging hose onto the tire like scrader valve (the one with the
black plastic cap on it like this):
http://www.saber.net/~monarch/acrecharge.jpg But keep engine off
since compressor won't run anyway.
2. Heat the can of R12 in hot water (110 degrees, but not more than 120
degrees) to force refrigerant into the system. This could take quite
awhile (10+ minutes). After most of 1 can has been dispensed into the
system, see if the compressor will run when you start the engine and
turn on the AC system. If not, shut off motor and add a second can.
If compressor still won't run, something is seriously wrong with the
compressor or wiring / switches / AC controls, etc.
We live in a strange society. In the 60's - 80's people generally drove their cars pretty slowly, calmly
and responsibly and it was routine for car owners to add their own refrigerant because the
risks of severe injury were relatively low. Now in the 21st century people
drive wildly fast and recklessly, but think adding R12 is a dangerous procedure
that should only be attempted by trained AC professionals. Strangely reversed perceptions of risk.
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