Typically in Canada the tire dealers ask you to return in 150km to "re-torque" the wheel lug nuts to make sure they are in spec. The reality is this is just a fail safe for dealers that don't do a proper job (jmho - hard to prove).

Anyway, I returned for my re-torque after the duratracs. The guy comes out with a really nice torque wrench, tests everything and says I'm fine ready to go. I ask what he torques to, and he replies "76...true for all toyota/lexus wheels". I say okey-dokey and drive away.

However, I seem to remember the manual specifies 97ft lb torque. I double check, and sure enough.

So today I stop in again. Same guy. He insists all Lexus and most toyotas are 76. He shrugs and goes to get the wrench. He sets it, and re-tests. I watch. NONE of the bolts move...not even one of them.

Conclusion: 1) we are wasting allot of time in Canada with the "re-torque" trips 2) the torque wrench re-test is USELESS...obviously the air tools are overtorquing ANYWAY...and a torque wrench doesn't test for that condition.

So really what SHOULD happen is snug all the lugs up. Then incrementally go up in torque until you hit the 97 evenly across all 5.

I doubt there is anything to worry about. I know over-torquing has risks, but I'm sure the LX has more then enough over-engineering to make up for it.


J

 

I always retorque mine whenever it has been in the shop. The problem I find is uneven and over tightening. At times I have to use a pipe cheater on a flex handle just to get the lugs loose. Of course, the result of this over tight and uneven tightening is warped brake rotors.

 

The over-engineering is there, as the factory torque for alloy wheels is indeed 97 ft.lb., but the torque for steel wheels (like my Tundra wheels with snow tires) is a little over 150 ft.lb. Meaning you won't hurt the stud or lug nut, but you may well screw up a wheel.

If it's a diy torque job, I simply divide total torque by 3 and torque in steps. Simple.

Steve

 

Tell your mechanic (tire changer guy) not all Toyota wheel have the same torque.

My LS 430 wheel nuts torque is 76 ft-lb, LS 600hL is 103 ft-lb. I have not check the my LX 570 book yet but as you have indicated it is at 97 ft-lb

 

97 ft.lb. is the standard Toyota torque spec for alloy wheels on 14mm studs. Lug nuts are 2-piece, with a captive washer that seats on the stud hole counterbore.

Same with steel wheels on 14mm studs...152 ft.lb. Lug nuts for steelies are one piece with a conical end that seats on the countersunk stud hole.

I doubt an LS uses 14mm studs...hence the difference in torque.

Steve

 

If the wheels are over torqued, then no, checking them with the torque wrench isn’t going to reveal anything.

As mentioned they should be brought up to 85 or so in sequence, and then final tightening done to 97. For an LX570.

Sometimes they’ll loosen up after driving a bit. Hopefully not, but if they do it can be a problem.

It can especially be a problem with the longer sleeved alloy wheel nuts.

As I’m sure everybody knows, the torque rating is a dry torque spec. Lubricating wheel lugs or any bolt for that matter increases the torque by about 20 to 30% over what the wrench is saying.

over tightening, or uneven tightening can result in broken wheel lugs. It doesn’t matter if it is Toyota engineering or not, Parts could potentially fail, especially if they’re not tightened evenly.

if your tire service provider is tightening your wheels and torquing them via Ugga Duggas, you may want to consider switching or doing it yourself.

torque spec should be in manual of every car