Any tips for doing the engine valley leak repair
Thread Starter
Driver
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 84
Likes: 40
From: West Aussie
This is the first I have heard of this issue. Do you know what years it affects etc. I have a 2010 tundra with a 4.6 (same engine as in my 460) and it has recently had low coolant and I am wondering if it has this same issue. Any material you can reference for additiona info is appreciated.
I'll get my borescope out and takes some pics of my leak and post here. Stand by
Pics attached. Sorry low-grade pics - its night-time here. My leak is visible on the top right bolt that holds the bell housing to the engine. The second pic shows the coolant running down the right side of the bell housing. It dries out before it gets to the ground. You can't really jam the borescope anywhere along the side or front of the engine to look under the intake manifold. There's noise suppression foam blocking all the orifices.
Last edited by MacroP; Jan 21, 2023 at 05:43 AM.
Not certain when or if the factory sealant used in manufacturing was ever changed. Being low on coolant and no explanation can be nerve wracking. We all hope it's not a head gasket.
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 967
Likes: 576
From: az
One tip I suggest...
Before resealing the plate take an air gun and blow out all the threaded bolt holes on the engine. The valley plate bolts are fairly long, the corresponding threaded holes tend to collect coolant as you remove the plate ( big coolant spill as you lift off the plate). I noticed as I tightened down my valley plate there was some coolant trapped in the bolt holes which was forced back up into the wet sealant.
Before resealing the plate take an air gun and blow out all the threaded bolt holes on the engine. The valley plate bolts are fairly long, the corresponding threaded holes tend to collect coolant as you remove the plate ( big coolant spill as you lift off the plate). I noticed as I tightened down my valley plate there was some coolant trapped in the bolt holes which was forced back up into the wet sealant.
Thread Starter
Driver
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 84
Likes: 40
From: West Aussie
One tip I suggest...
Before resealing the plate take an air gun and blow out all the threaded bolt holes on the engine. The valley plate bolts are fairly long, the corresponding threaded holes tend to collect coolant as you remove the plate ( big coolant spill as you lift off the plate). I noticed as I tightened down my valley plate there was some coolant trapped in the bolt holes which was forced back up into the wet sealant.
Before resealing the plate take an air gun and blow out all the threaded bolt holes on the engine. The valley plate bolts are fairly long, the corresponding threaded holes tend to collect coolant as you remove the plate ( big coolant spill as you lift off the plate). I noticed as I tightened down my valley plate there was some coolant trapped in the bolt holes which was forced back up into the wet sealant.
Pit Crew
Joined: Dec 2022
Posts: 142
Likes: 59
From: UT
Shifting the topic slightly, does this issue affect the 5.0 in the LS600h as well? I see lots of discussion from LS460 owners but not much from hybrid owners specifically. I've also read vague statements about all UR-family engines being affected, but again, no real first-party experiences.
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 967
Likes: 576
From: az
Shifting the topic slightly, does this issue affect the 5.0 in the LS600h as well? I see lots of discussion from LS460 owners but not much from hybrid owners specifically. I've also read vague statements about all UR-family engines being affected, but again, no real first-party experiences.
8th Gear
Joined: Jan 2023
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: TX
direct injector connectors
I'm just gearing up to do the infamous valley leak repair and wondering if anyone has done it and what would you do different next time if anything. Or was there any tips and tricks you wish to share. I bought another 460 a few months ago because I'm an idiot. I do have another 460 already + a salvage donor/parts car. Got the 'new' car back last week, after gettting some minor body repairts, and gave it a good inspection and noticed straight away using my borescope that this car had the infamous valley coolant leak under the intake.
Seems like a nice and simple task albeit time consuming and a little back breaking. Plenty of videos online about the repair and a bit of chatter on here too in the past.
So far...
* Have received 2 new orings for the large coolant pipe. Part # 96761-35035 (two needed). Common Lexus and Toyota part.
* Have ordered new direct injector connectors.
* New waterpump installed the other day.
* Did the engine pulleys (and tensioner) when I got the car back the other day as well. Were all pretty noisy. It's handy when you have another car to compare to directly.
* The radiator has seen better days so a new one is on order. Looks like it has had a repair in the past which I don't trust.
* The A/C condensor looks pretty poor so I might replace that as well from the donor car.
Update: Just checked the two high pressure fuel pumps mounted on the valves covers - yep oil seepage both sides. New gaskets needed here too. 23224-38010 (2 needed). Looks like you can also get aftermarket reseal kit for each side. 5 pieces in each kit. I might stick with genuine parts here.
Update:2 Ended up going all new genuine parts for the fuel pump seal and other consumables. As eveything was only around $100
* PCV - 12204-38010
* Intake Manifold gaskets (it's really seal) - 17171-38020 (two needed)
* Plastic separator plate - 12215-38020
* Throttle Body gasket - 22271-50050
* HP fuel pump seals/gasket 23224-38010
* HP fuel pump o-rings 96723-19010 (two needed)
* HP dampener seals 23279-74010 (two needed)
* HP fuel pump isolators 23915-46011 (two needed)
* Valve cover gaskets LH - 11214-38020 & RH - 11213-38030
Upddate 3:
* 12261-38030 Vent Hose
* 12261-38040 Vent Hose
* 12262-38030 Vent Hose
* 12273-38020 Oil Gasket
* 11159-31010 Valve Cover O-rings - Tandem O-ring. (2 needed)
* 11159-38010 Valve Cover Bearing cap o-ring (2 needed)
* 90430-10024 Valve cover Oil Seal (4 needed)
Any other things I've missed that are normally hard to access?
As I'm in no rush to complete the job once I start it - any suprises don't have to be dealt with there and then. I do have time.
Because I will be remove the A/C condensor (and radiator) anyway, I was also think of removing to the entire front end for ease of access. Thoughts? With the videos I have watched, most have mentioned about having to lean over for many hours. Simple job that can get a bit strenuous on the back for older fellas like me. I have had front end (bumpers and core support) off my primary 460 that I have had for few years now. It all unbolts pretty easily and quickly. 30mins work really.
Seems like a nice and simple task albeit time consuming and a little back breaking. Plenty of videos online about the repair and a bit of chatter on here too in the past.
So far...
* Have received 2 new orings for the large coolant pipe. Part # 96761-35035 (two needed). Common Lexus and Toyota part.
* Have ordered new direct injector connectors.
* New waterpump installed the other day.
* Did the engine pulleys (and tensioner) when I got the car back the other day as well. Were all pretty noisy. It's handy when you have another car to compare to directly.
* The radiator has seen better days so a new one is on order. Looks like it has had a repair in the past which I don't trust.
* The A/C condensor looks pretty poor so I might replace that as well from the donor car.
Update: Just checked the two high pressure fuel pumps mounted on the valves covers - yep oil seepage both sides. New gaskets needed here too. 23224-38010 (2 needed). Looks like you can also get aftermarket reseal kit for each side. 5 pieces in each kit. I might stick with genuine parts here.
Update:2 Ended up going all new genuine parts for the fuel pump seal and other consumables. As eveything was only around $100
* PCV - 12204-38010
* Intake Manifold gaskets (it's really seal) - 17171-38020 (two needed)
* Plastic separator plate - 12215-38020
* Throttle Body gasket - 22271-50050
* HP fuel pump seals/gasket 23224-38010
* HP fuel pump o-rings 96723-19010 (two needed)
* HP dampener seals 23279-74010 (two needed)
* HP fuel pump isolators 23915-46011 (two needed)
* Valve cover gaskets LH - 11214-38020 & RH - 11213-38030
Upddate 3:
* 12261-38030 Vent Hose
* 12261-38040 Vent Hose
* 12262-38030 Vent Hose
* 12273-38020 Oil Gasket
* 11159-31010 Valve Cover O-rings - Tandem O-ring. (2 needed)
* 11159-38010 Valve Cover Bearing cap o-ring (2 needed)
* 90430-10024 Valve cover Oil Seal (4 needed)
Any other things I've missed that are normally hard to access?
As I'm in no rush to complete the job once I start it - any suprises don't have to be dealt with there and then. I do have time.
Because I will be remove the A/C condensor (and radiator) anyway, I was also think of removing to the entire front end for ease of access. Thoughts? With the videos I have watched, most have mentioned about having to lean over for many hours. Simple job that can get a bit strenuous on the back for older fellas like me. I have had front end (bumpers and core support) off my primary 460 that I have had for few years now. It all unbolts pretty easily and quickly. 30mins work really.
Thank you for the complete list. Do yo have the part number for direct injector connectors?
I am in the same boat and about to start this task!
Thread Starter
Driver
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 84
Likes: 40
From: West Aussie
So all the parts arrived last week and I started this valley job on the weekend and coupled to that - the starter motor crapped itself last week. I had taken the car to a local mechanic for a basic service (essentially to keep the log book upto date) and ironically the starter motor died when I went to pickup the car in the afternoon. The mechanic said it went click a couple of times and eventually started when he was working on it. Grabbed a car tralier with my 4WD and picked it up. Isn't it ironic for a car to have a part fail when at a mechanics - it is supposed to be the other way around. I had zero symptons prior but I'm glad it went when it did - 10 minutes walk from home. I got the car home an combined both jobs - valley coolant leak and starter motor replacement. The is a big job . Vallet plate repair, replace valve cover seals and the starte motor.
Everything was coming togethor when I broke an injector - one of the direct injectors actually. Costly mistake. It was injector #1. I was simply plugging the connector back in during reassembly. There was obvious discolouration in the plastic housing of the injector - a brown tinge and the plastic was very brittle and crumbled. The other injectiors didn't have the brown tinge which I found interesting. Beware.
I do have a spare engine and trans sitting in my shed from my donor/parts car so I had to steal an injector from that. I actually just swapped the entire left bank rail of 4 injectors as they are all a matched set.
Pics coming soon.
. Vallet plate repair, replace valve cover seals and the starte motor. Everything was coming togethor when I broke an injector - one of the direct injectors actually. Costly mistake. It was injector #1. I was simply plugging the connector back in during reassembly. There was obvious discolouration in the plastic housing of the injector - a brown tinge and the plastic was very brittle and crumbled. The other injectiors didn't have the brown tinge which I found interesting. Beware.
I do have a spare engine and trans sitting in my shed from my donor/parts car so I had to steal an injector from that. I actually just swapped the entire left bank rail of 4 injectors as they are all a matched set.
Pics coming soon.
Rookie
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 35
Likes: 13
From: GA
So all the parts arrived last week and I started this valley job on the weekend and coupled to that - the starter motor crapped itself last week. I had taken the car to a local mechanic for a basic service (essentially to keep the log book upto date) and ironically the starter motor died when I went to pickup the car in the afternoon. The mechanic said it went click a couple of times and eventually started when he was working on it. Grabbed a car tralier with my 4WD and picked it up. Isn't it ironic for a car to have a part fail when at a mechanics - it is supposed to be the other way around. I had zero symptons prior but I'm glad it went when it did - 10 minutes walk from home. I got the car home an combined both jobs - valley coolant leak and starter motor replacement. The is a big job . Vallet plate repair, replace valve cover seals and the starte motor.
Everything was coming togethor when I broke an injector - one of the direct injectors actually. Costly mistake. It was injector #1. I was simply plugging the connector back in during reassembly. There was obvious discolouration in the plastic housing of the injector - a brown tinge and the plastic was very brittle and crumbled. The other injectiors didn't have the brown tinge which I found interesting. Beware.
I do have a spare engine and trans sitting in my shed from my donor/parts car so I had to steal an injector from that. I actually just swapped the entire left bank rail of 4 injectors as they are all a matched set.
Pics coming soon.
. Vallet plate repair, replace valve cover seals and the starte motor.Everything was coming togethor when I broke an injector - one of the direct injectors actually. Costly mistake. It was injector #1. I was simply plugging the connector back in during reassembly. There was obvious discolouration in the plastic housing of the injector - a brown tinge and the plastic was very brittle and crumbled. The other injectiors didn't have the brown tinge which I found interesting. Beware.
I do have a spare engine and trans sitting in my shed from my donor/parts car so I had to steal an injector from that. I actually just swapped the entire left bank rail of 4 injectors as they are all a matched set.
Pics coming soon.
Last edited by mikoriad; Feb 20, 2023 at 06:42 PM.
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2021
Posts: 1,145
Likes: 602
From: VA
Brain f - in case of broken injector connectors - yes, pull the rail. But be super careful.
Last edited by Boykie; Feb 20, 2023 at 07:03 PM.