Hi,

I actually want to get this spare engine back together so will need to buy a replacement injector myself sorry. Also note the injectos are very specific. The have coloured ring on the which you have to match with the right part number. My car has 5 different part number options for example. I always use this website to get my genuine part numbers by entering my VIN. http://www.japan-parts.eu/ Enter your VIN look under Engine / Fuel Injection System. You can see all lthe part numbers specific to your engine and your ring on your broken injector.

Can I ask what price you have seen loocally for a single new injector. I do see online, in the US, that people are paying aaround US$300 400each which I think is excessive.

Seeing I'm in Australia, and prices are even more very expensive, I tend to buy a lot of Toyota/Lexus (small) parts from Japan using Partsouq or Impex Japan. I tend to use Impex more often. My replacement injector is around $200 from them+postage. Locally it is way over double that.

 

Per advice from the friend I mentioned above... Injectors are simple, rarely fail, and furthermore they don't fail in our cars. I would suggest buying refirbished ones that have been cleaned and tested with new seals put on at a fraction of the cost. There was no way I was paying 300+ dollers on a single injector. I bought 6 from this ebay site and installed 4 on the passenger side rail (2 spares just in case). It's only been a little over a week but everything has been running just like it did on the original injectors. No warning lights, not a hiccup, smooth as ever. Our LS direct injectors are the same ones used in the entire line of direct injected Lexus's of the period. They are not unique and are fairly common It's the choice I decided on, and at this point I can't suggest buying new.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/29553024135...mis&media=MORE

 

Makes me wonder though - those ebay injectors look more like clones/copies from China and not refurbished genuine or even aftermarket as they too have the part number on the connector plastic like the original Denso unit. Interesting. Considering these same injectors are also rampant on Aliexpress my suspicions are mostly likely true.

 

Yup, those are fakes.

 

For the price I had to take a chance. Honestly, after getting them and looking at them they are just used and refurbished, not fakes. Of course people can make their own decision as far as that goes. They didn't come labeled in a Bosch box, they had their own name brand on the box itself. It doesn't at all seem at all like they are trying to look like anything else. We'll see, and I'll let everyone here know what time tells.

 

Yes, please do. I suspected those are refurbs, but nothing precludes those from being faulty used units.

 

I just did this repair and also snapped a DI injector. Any tips on replacing it? I plan on getting 1 new injector and swapping it into the rail. Question I have is, do I need to reseal all the other injectors if the seals didn't get torn on removal?

 

The injectors are easy enough to reseal, however, you'd have to buy the reseal tool plus the seals themselves. I can only tell you what my 2JZ tuner friend told me. He has done it plenty of times with no issues when there was no other choice. Some of those times he'd come back and reseal or replace, every time he did it, there was no sign of leakage. Just make sure to lube the seals before reinserting and torquing down.


UPDATE: My "used" direct injector situation is still good. My engine is running smooth, no lights, and feels as stock as ever.

 

Would you happen to know the specifics of lubing the seals and the torque spec? Lube when installing the seal or installing the injector into the head? - thanks

 

Lube the seals to help with reinstalling the fuel rail into the head, they are a very tight fit. FYI, you have to put a good amount of force when pushing the rail with all 4 injectors in the head. A rubber mallet with very light taps can be used. You can use silicone or stick your finger in a cap of engine oil and then rub it around the injector seals. The rail bolt torque is 15ft-lbs.

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/201...4V647-5234.pdf

 

Is the color of the mark distinguished based on the connector seal color or a pen mark?

 

Anybody has found instructions on how to change the fuel injector wiring harness connector itself? I am doing the valley plate right now. I was very careful not to damage the injector itself but connectors on the driver side( all the black ones) broke. Interestingly all the passenger side( gray ones) came out with no problem.

Thanks in advance

 

This should help: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...onnectors.html

 

Really appreciate your quick response. Very helpful thread.

Thanks

 

UPDATE: It's going on almost 4 months now and my "used/ebay" direct injector situation is still good. The engine is running smooth, no lights, and still feels as stock as ever.

.... More than I can say for my lower control arms. It's about time to do those now.