Trying to replace the fuel pump, valve cover, and spark plug gaskets in order to fix an oil leak. Driver side went fine, well I managed, but when I started on the passenger side the battery tray bolts look like this.


So, does anybody know what size these bolts are? Also happy to hear some tips on getting them out.

 

I don't know definitively. They look like m6 size. Use a pick to scrub off the corrosion. The head likely takes a 10mm socket. Use a six point if you have it.

 

Alright, used a pick as you suggested to get some of the corrosion off, the head appears to be a 12mm to me but quite frankly they're so deteriorated I can't tell. The bolts appear to be pretty much falling apart, so I'll try to use a screwdriver and hammer to potentially break the washers and hopefully get the battery tray loose. I'm just hoping I won't have to cut it out

 

My bolts were bad but not as bad. My car had 10mm which I replaced with 10mm stainless steel bolts. I would try to extract the bolts with an extractor kit, instead of trying to use a socket. Before extracting the bolts, clean as much rust as possible and saturate the bolts with thread buster. Leave it overnight, and try using an extractor kit.

 

Once you get the tray out, inspect the bolt holes(nuts) for corrosion. SS bolts is a great idea, I'm just being thorough. There are solutions, cleaners, paints to address any corrosion. Of course if they are clips, replace them and give them a squirt of terminal spray or your favorite corrosion blocker. BTW, a baking soda and water solution will neutralize any residual acids. Hope it goes well.

 

Root of the problem is the battery leaking acid.

 

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​​​​​After trying to hammer a spline socket onto the bolt and using an air compressor to blow out debris. I may have to try an extractor kit that would allow me to remove these.

Are these studs with nuts on them or are they full on bolts? I suppose I could try cutting the heads to get a screwdriver on them.

 

My car (2010) has 3 bolts.

 

Make the area watertight then pour this stuff in and wait a couple of days.
https://www.harborfreight.com/automo...ver-96431.html

 

My car also has 3 bolts, I just didn't take a photo of the third since it's the same story.

I actually happen to have a jug of the Evapo-Rust from a toolbox restoration, that's a good idea.

 

Alright so I've given up on getting the battery tray bolts out and just replacing the fuel pump gasket, as I know for a fact that it's leaking. I was just going for the valve cover gaskets since I was already there. But I now have a new problem.





​​​​​​While trying to remove the union bolt, the bottom 21mm did infact move. From what I've read, this means the fuel pump is now toast. Does anybody know why this is? I don't want to buy a new pump for $1000-$1200 if I don't absolutely have to.

 

It looks like you twisted the fuel line as well, did you not use 2 wrenches on that?

 

The fuel line isn't twisted. I think the light from the camera just makes it appear so, but no I didn't use two wrenches on it cause I'm a dingus. Driver side went fine but the passenger side hasn't been so forgiving.

Is there any known reason for the fuel pump being totaled if the 21mm moves?

 

If you ignore the battery tray bolts, the possibility of a 30 lb battery going flying exists. Do it right. It appears that the threads have sheared as well as the line being twisted. Once things are completely disassembled, then you can make a list of things that need replacement. I hate the sinking feeling but all you can do is move forward.

 

I can't tell you that for sure but it looks like that fitting is part of the assembly, it appears to be on the return line as the pulsation damper is on the supply. I had a look at mine and I don't think I would want to see it move any amount.