You have "Regular Pressure Sensor" reading, I would monitor that and tried cycling AC on and off.

derreckla, too bad we're not giving you what you want to hear. What is it you want us to tell you? Did you find the pressure switches you were asking about? At this point, I'm not sure what it is you're asking anymore. It's possible others aren't understanding you either. I think you're being told that the addition of freon might make the original issue harder to diagnose. Try explaining what you want.

First off let me say that AC issues are best left to a shop. There are so many issues that can affect AC performance that have already been stated in this thread. Pressure too high, pressure too low, leaks, blend doors not working correctly, incorrect amount of freon, etc....

​​​​​​I had a situation similar to yours but was a result of me having to remove the whole HVAC box under the dash. The previous owner had a leaking radiator and was using a stop leak product before taking it to the dealer. The dealer changed the radiator but the damage was already done. The heat worked for a lil while before they were back at the dealer complaining about no heat again. The dealer knew that the heater core was the issue but instead of being honest they told him that he needed a whole new system to the tune of 5k.

I figured all this out by looking at the service records and trial and error on my part. The PO parked the car for 3 years rather than pay for the repair. I purchased the car knowing about the issue and asked the dealer if the issue was fixed, they said yes. Fast forward, I bought the car in October and when it got cold my defroster was not working on the driver's side which was real dangerous when you can't see driving down the road. I had to email the GM of the dealership and file a complaint with the BBB before they stepped up and told me to take it to a dealer in my state and they would cover the bill. I bought the car in Chicago and drove it back to NJ.

The NJ dealer changed the thermostat and water pump and did several flushes. I would have heat for a lil while and then I would lose it again. The weird thing is that it was only on the driver's side. Finally the tech told me that the HVAC was good because he visually saw the servos working and he believed that the heater core was plugged due to the fact that he was getting lots of gunk out of the core when he did the flushes. By this time it was too late to call the selling dealer back and rather than pay my dealer 2k to change the core I decided to tackle it in my own.

I know that was a lot but I needed to give some back story. After changing the core I took it to a shop to make sure the AC was filled properly. There's cars are finicky about having the proper amount of freon in them for the AC to work properly. The first time the shop evacuated and filled the system it worked long enough for me to get home. Then I got those same readings in Techstream that you have in your screen shot. I looked at how many ounces they used and compared it to the FSM and noticed it was underfilled by about 2 ounces. They were using a Haines manual plus I don't think that they accounted for my rear cooler. They tried to give me push back but I stood my ground and told them to fill the system to factory spec. I printed the page from the manual and gave it to them. Once they filled it to factory spec the AC worked properly.

Since I removed the HVAC box and did not mark the position of the servos some of my blend doors were out of wack. I had heat coming out the arm rest vents when the AC was on. It took a lot of trial and error to get those doors back in the correct position.

Sometimes the servo motors can be out of wack and not throw a code. Or the code can be intermittent. This will throw the mixture of air that's coming out your vents off. If you can confirm that there is no leak in your system I would then start checking the servo motors. Knowing what I know now I would take the car to a professional shop and let them evacuate the system and then refill it so you know that your starting from a good base. They will put a dye in there to identify any leaks.
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Does anyone know if I would get a code error for the front is it front Valve/switch or whatever part that I have been reading online that goes out on these cars that's $80 to buy?

or how I would know if it's a AC amp part problem?

Thanks

SOLVED!

I bought a new High pressure switch sensor.

I saw on here that someone said it had a schrader valve and you could do it yourself. NOT A GOOD IDEA as my shot everywhere like a geyser as I ran inside to wash my face.

DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS YOUR SELF!!

So I took it to a shop that had the pump to fill up and test the lines. Car blows super cold now consistently so it was the sensor or the ac service. On the DIY Refill cans it said that it was full so it was probably the sensor. I am posting this so others don't try this on there own.

Thanks for everyones suggestions...

Glad the problem is resolved. Also that you didn't get seriously hurt. AC systems aren't user repairable without a machine to remove/replace refrigerant as well as evacuation of all the air in the lines.