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sup lexus brodies,
I have a really bad clunking sound coming from the drivers side every time I literally sit in the car..after starting it up. let me explain, after I power on the car, the steering wheel is released and my legs hit it on the way in and it clunks very loud at the smallest movement of the steering wheel. This sound occurs when I brake hard and come to a full stop and also when making turns. I've had the car inspected from multiple mechanics and they all say everything up front is tight and solid! The drivers side axle which we RECENTLTY saw spewing grease all over the underbody. This was not visible the multiple times I had the car inspected. Also there was engine mount tested..for those that dont know. The mechanics pressed on the brake and gas at the same time with the car in D and hood open. The driver side part of engine moved significantly as compared to the passengers side which hardly moved this graceful engine. btw the passenger side was tested with the car in R. for context, I have had this noise issue EVER since I changed out the lower rearward control arms on my AWD (rearward and forward arms are different on the RWD! for those that don't know). Also every time I brake or drive around at highway speeds or slower speeds, when turning or leaning the car towards the drivers side (turning to my right) the car feels loose or unstable? to carry the load as firmly as compared to if I am turning to the left and leaning the weight of the car onto the passengers side. The engine mounts were inspected from the bottom with the car on a lift and they had no play..sometimes the mechanics say its the steering rack?! wth this car is at 46K!
I know this is a lot. I have to put my trust in fellow club Lexus members because these mechanics **** me off every time they touch my beautiful car! Thanks to all.
Questions:
1- should I be having to replace any axle at 46K? like damn! this is a freakin lexus
2- should the engine mounts be going bad at 46K? again that sounds way too early.
3- Does the engine mount test as I described ruin the transmission/engine? because after that test, the car gave off a burnt smell and did not seem to feel as powerful on the throttle as before the test..
4- Could the new rearward arms have brought light to a problem that was already there?
Last edited by Zetascry; Jan 13, 2022 at 05:41 PM.
If control arms were not installed properly, they will fail in 2-4k miles. Axles are relatively reliable and usually do not fail. It seems the drivers side mount needs to be changed as well.
Put the car on jack stands and rock the wheels, if you see excessive play or hear something, arms are shot.
1. I doubt your axle is bad. It probably has a loose clamp that let some of the grease out. Even if the boot is ripped since you say it started leaking recently I doubt it's your issue. I believe awd replacement front boots are available.
2. It does sound like your driver side mount is bad. I think it is unlikely they are causing the noise you hear. There is a rubber cover over the mounts. On one of my mount covers had either melted or broken apart, it was brittle. Perhaps one of yours melted against the exhaust manifold when it was torque tested?
3. If they did it for too long it's possible there was damage done. I doubt either are damaged. Maybe shaved a few miles off their life if anything.
4. Are the bolt sleeves installed in your new arms? If one was left out that could account for the steering play and clunk.
Or perhaps a bad ball joint or steering tie rod. How is your fwd lower arm? Does the bushing have any cracks? You can turn the wheel full left / right to inspect them while parked. No need to jack it up. Snap a picture or two and post them.
1. I doubt your axle is bad. It probably has a loose clamp that let some of the grease out. Even if the boot is ripped since you say it started leaking recently I doubt it's your issue. I believe awd replacement front boots are available.
2. It does sound like your driver side mount is bad. I think it is unlikely they are causing the noise you hear. There is a rubber cover over the mounts. On one of my mount covers had either melted or broken apart, it was brittle. Perhaps one of yours melted against the exhaust manifold when it was torque tested?
3. If they did it for too long it's possible there was damage done. I doubt either are damaged. Maybe shaved a few miles off their life if anything.
4. Are the bolt sleeves installed in your new arms? If one was left out that could account for the steering play and clunk.
Or perhaps a bad ball joint or steering tie rod. How is your fwd lower arm? Does the bushing have any cracks? You can turn the wheel full left / right to inspect them while parked. No need to jack it up. Snap a picture or two and post them.
The sleeves tend to fuse with bolts then the entire arms have to be cut piece by piece.
So I had these cut out and replaced with new oem parts. There are two toe adjust **** looking pieces on each side of the bolt which I'm not sure they have positioned in the right place.
Originally Posted by sktn77a
I think you've answered your own question. I doubt it's the axel but I would definitely suspect the control arm installation.
honestly I do feel these are the problem from my own analysis but the mechanics are so confusing! I ask them to loosen the control arm bolts until there is a loud click/snap noise while the car is on a lift. But no one is willing to do it even though I am paying.
1. I doubt your axle is bad. It probably has a loose clamp that let some of the grease out. Even if the boot is ripped since you say it started leaking recently I doubt it's your issue. I believe awd replacement front boots are available.
2. It does sound like your driver side mount is bad. I think it is unlikely they are causing the noise you hear. There is a rubber cover over the mounts. On one of my mount covers had either melted or broken apart, it was brittle. Perhaps one of yours melted against the exhaust manifold when it was torque tested?
3. If they did it for too long it's possible there was damage done. I doubt either are damaged. Maybe shaved a few miles off their life if anything.
4. Are the bolt sleeves installed in your new arms? If one was left out that could account for the steering play and clunk.
Or perhaps a bad ball joint or steering tie rod. How is your fwd lower arm? Does the bushing have any cracks? You can turn the wheel full left / right to inspect them while parked. No need to jack it up. Snap a picture or two and post them.
1- so I do not need a new $900 axle? and I can reclamp the boot after adding the right grease? if that's the case I can be relieved about this issue.
2- Yes, this part did seem to show play when torque tested and looking into the engine bay. A fix I am ready for.
3- Car is back to normal after a few days sitting.
4- Bolt sleeves are brand new and installed. There are two toe adjuster **** looking pieces on both side of the bolts. Which position do they normally sit? Could the clunk be from an improper toe adjustment? Maybe a wheel alignment shop that knows what they're doing?
**Both ball joints were replaced when I had the lower rearward controls arms changed out. How can I tell a steering tie rod is bad? Fwd lower arm looks great, no cracks or anything. Weather is really bad up in the NE atm. I can snap photos as soon as it gets better out.
1. There is not enough evidence to support a failed axle. Replace the boot if necessary, repack the joint and clamp the boot.
2. An excessively moving engine is usually due to failing/failed mounts. There is a high chance, you have to replace, at least, one of mounts. I would replaced both in the same time.
3. If engine mounts do not provide the support, you will damage the transmission mounts with time and potentially anything connected to the engine - axles, shafts etc.
4. The clunk is likely coming from front lower rearward control arms. Make sure they were set to a proper torque. I have ruined my brand new control arms in less than 5k miles because I did not preload bushings properly. Do some testing. Check your sway bar links and anything that was loosen or removed and reinstalled.
1. There is not enough evidence to support a failed axle. Replace the boot if necessary, repack the joint and clamp the boot.
2. An excessively moving engine is usually due to failing/failed mounts. There is a high chance, you have to replace, at least, one of mounts. I would replaced both in the same time.
3. If engine mounts do not provide the support, you will damage the transmission mounts with time and potentially anything connected to the engine - axles, shafts etc.
4. The clunk is likely coming from front lower rearward control arms. Make sure they were set to a proper torque. I have ruined my brand new control arms in less than 5k miles because I did not preload bushings properly. Do some testing. Check your sway bar links and anything that was loosen or removed and reinstalled.
1- Understood.
2- The passenger side did not move a 1/4 of an inch..I ordered one for the driver side. Hope thats fine.
3- Got it.
4- What is the proper torque? how do I properly load the bushings? Do you have AWD version? if yes, where do the camber washer looking pieces at each side of the camber bolt sit? Like do they have a specific orientation? They look like the attachment.
Everything has been checked by multiple mechanics and everyone says all is tight and snug.
4. I do not remember the torque, if nobody provides it by tomorrow I will get it for you. You need to assemble the suspension, tighten the control arms. Lower the vehicle and drive it 20-30 feet, you can drive even further to allow the suspension to settle. Drive the vehicle onto ramps loosen the control arms, and allow the bushings to relax. Tighten the arms to the required specs. I got AWD as well. The portion with no markings in the middle directed down. Make sure it is somewhat centered during assembly. When you do an alignment, camber will be set by a technician to a proper position.
2- The passenger side did not move a 1/4 of an inch..I ordered one for the driver side. Hope thats fine.
3- Got it.
4- What is the proper torque? how do I properly load the bushings? Do you have AWD version? if yes, where do the camber washer looking pieces at each side of the camber bolt sit? Like do they have a specific orientation? They look like the attachment.
Everything has been checked by multiple mechanics and everyone says all is tight and snug.
Okay Brodies, first of all..I love you guys!
I fixed the problem. All these camber adjusters were on/facing the wrong way. The blank part has to face down and the 3 o’clock & 9 o’clock lines on all the cambers have to match the notch/lines on the frame!
To all the AWD guys make sure this is done the right way! Or else your car will clunk really bad.
The proper orientation is shown in the picture I have provided. However, I do not believe, it will make any difference. Those marks are for alignment purposes only and as far as it fits, either way should work. But following the manual is usually a good practice.
The proper orientation is shown in the picture I have provided. However, I do not believe, it will make any difference. Those marks are for alignment purposes only and as far as it fits, either way should work. But following the manual is usually a good practice.
stopped the clunking once I put the blank part facing down. Car does not feel “wobbly” “loose” or any of the symptoms I’ve mentioned earlier. manual has the right orientation and exactly how I placed it.
Still have not chhanged out the engine mount. Mechanics say it’s an 18 hour job…is there any easier way?
New axle at 46K?!
