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Front brakes bleeding question

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Old Mar 19, 2021 | 10:02 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by yyymmm31
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See my posting #98 in the linked thread to resolve this issue: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...essages-7.html
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Please help...i just read it but confused. So basically everything was fine before until i reset and relearn the calibration process. What do i do now?

dry-run the "Actuator has been removed" bleeding procedure, you will be able to reset the brake memory and complete the linear solenoid valve offset. All will be good. There is no need to replace your brake accumulator. Big thanks to hardtopte7 who shared his dilemma and how he resolved Codes C1256 and C1345 in Posting #61.
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Old Mar 19, 2021 | 10:05 PM
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Originally Posted by aristo1987
just google ls460 c1345 and you'll see what comes up on clublexus. Another guy did exactly what i did. Everything was fine before hand until he did the reset and relearn process. Idk i drove my car back on my garage and shut my pc off. Not going be able to sleep tonight
My bet is that your actuator temp high after a good drive. I never had this issue with my LS or friend"s LS with more than 350k miles . As long as the flush job is good . The battery must be in a good voltage .
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Old Mar 19, 2021 | 10:26 PM
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Originally Posted by aristo1987
Please help...i just read it but confused. So basically everything was fine before until i reset and relearn the calibration process. What do i do now?

dry-run the "Actuator has been removed" bleeding procedure, you will be able to reset the brake memory and complete the linear solenoid valve offset. All will be good. There is no need to replace your brake accumulator. Big thanks to hardtopte7 who shared his dilemma and how he resolved Codes C1256 and C1345 in Posting #61.
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From your description, you didn't finish your brake resetting memory and calibrating the solenoid valve process, either because your battery level was low or because your actuator assembly temperature was not normal as ALK pointed out. Since you have already bled your brake system, you may just dry-run the "Actuator has been removed" bleeding procedure without bleeding the brake system again. By dry-run, I mean that you go through the bleeding procedure on Techstream screen without actually bleeding the brakes. That is, all is done on Techstream screen without the need to physically touch the brake bleeders and brake parts. Specifically, use the instruction I shared with you previously (the attached PDF file in Posting #7 in this thread:https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...php?p=10762895). You can begin with Page 19: Section 4: Rear Brake Bleed (in your case, there is no need to run the instruction before Page 19). Follow the instruction step by step with on Techstream screen without actually bleeding the brakes (dry run). After you finish dry-run the bleeding procedure, you will clear C1345 and C1256 codes. Reminder: ensure that your battery is fully charged before you dry-run the "actuator has been removed" bleeding procedure on Techstream.
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Last edited by yyymmm31; Mar 19, 2021 at 10:40 PM. Reason: corrected typos
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Old Mar 20, 2021 | 04:37 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by yyymmm31
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From your description, you didn't finish your brake resetting memory and calibrating the solenoid valve process, either because your battery level was low or because your actuator assembly temperature was not normal as ALK pointed out. Since you have already bled your brake system, you may just dry-run the "Actuator has been removed" bleeding procedure without bleeding the brake system again. By dry-run, I mean that you go through the bleeding procedure on Techstream screen without actually bleeding the brakes. That is, all is done on Techstream screen without the need to physically touch the brake bleeders and brake parts. Specifically, use the instruction I shared with you previously (the attached PDF file in Posting #7 in this thread:https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...php?p=10762895). You can begin with Page 19: Section 4: Rear Brake Bleed (in your case, there is no need to run the instruction before Page 19). Follow the instruction step by step with on Techstream screen without actually bleeding the brakes (dry run). After you finish dry-run the bleeding procedure, you will clear C1345 and C1256 codes. Reminder: ensure that your battery is fully charged before you dry-run the "actuator has been removed" bleeding procedure on Techstream.
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can i plug in a battery charger while the car is on? Also should i try the recalibrating process and see if that works before doing the actuator process?

These are the codes i got yesterday after doing the calibration process C1345 and C1368


Last edited by aristo1987; Mar 20, 2021 at 04:54 AM.
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Old Mar 20, 2021 | 08:02 AM
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Originally Posted by aristo1987
can i plug in a battery charger while the car is on? Also should i try the recalibrating process and see if that works before doing the actuator process?

These are the codes i got yesterday after doing the calibration process C1345 and C1368
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1. I take it that you meant the ignition is in on position (not actually starting the engine) when you said "the car is on". Yes, you may connect a good charger to the battery while your are running the bleeding procedure (when the ignition is in "on" position but not start the engine"). Those low amp trickle chargers won't work because they don't provide sufficient amp volume to sustain the bleeding process.
2. You may try to reset memory and re-run the recalibration procedures and see if it works. It'll be great if you can get rid of C1345 code by recalibration. However, my experience is that once C1345 code is triggered, you won't be able to complete recalibration (see my explanation in Posting # 98 in this thread: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...essages-7.html). I was able to clear Code C1345 only by dry-running the "actuator was removed" bleeding procedure.
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Old Mar 20, 2021 | 09:14 AM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by yyymmm31
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1. I take it that you meant the ignition is in on position (not actually starting the engine) when you said "the car is on". Yes, you may connect a good charger to the battery while your are running the bleeding procedure (when the ignition is in "on" position but not start the engine"). Those low amp trickle chargers won't work because they don't provide sufficient amp volume to sustain the bleeding process.
2. You may try to reset memory and re-run the recalibration procedures and see if it works. It'll be great if you can get rid of C1345 code by recalibration. However, my experience is that once C1345 code is triggered, you won't be able to complete recalibration (see my explanation in Posting # 98 in this thread: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...essages-7.html). I was able to clear Code C1345 only by dry-running the "actuator was removed" bleeding procedure.
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i did everything as explained and it did not work. idk i feel like i probably made ot worse. By doing the zero down and ecb as instructed when it failed
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Old Mar 20, 2021 | 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by aristo1987
i did everything as explained and it did not work. idk i feel like i probably made ot worse. By doing the zero down and ecb as instructed when it failed
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Sorry to hear it. That was how I cleared C1345 Code. A possibility is that somehow air entered your brake actuator. In any case, you may dry-run the "actuator has been moved" brake bleed procedure again EXCEPT one step. That is, dry-run all the steps EXCEPT bleeding the right rear wheel, which will purge any air in your brake actuator. Specifically, dry-run all the steps in the PDF bleed document EXCEPT steps on Pages 24-25 (that is, doing the actual bleeding of the rear right brake). This step will purge air and brake fluid out of the brake actuator assembly in addition to purging air and brake fluid out of the right rear brake hose and caliper. Make sure that you do what ALK said when performing the bleed procedure with Techstream: park your car on a level surface, keep your steering wheel straight, and ensure that your brake actuator is in normal room temperature range. Adding a note: you must use "Actuator has been removed" bleed procedure to clear C1345 code. Using "Usual air bleeding" procedure won't clear C1345. The same is true for bleed rear right brake. Only the "Actuator has been removed" procedure purges air out of the actuator assembly. The regular "Usual air bleeding" procedure won't purge air out of brake actuator assembly.
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Last edited by yyymmm31; Mar 20, 2021 at 11:07 AM.
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Old Mar 20, 2021 | 11:32 AM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by yyymmm31
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Sorry to hear it. That was how I cleared C1345 Code. A possibility is that somehow air entered your brake actuator. In any case, you may dry-run the "actuator has been moved" brake bleed procedure again EXCEPT one step. That is, dry-run all the steps EXCEPT bleeding the right rear wheel, which will purge any air in your brake actuator. Specifically, dry-run all the steps in the PDF bleed document EXCEPT steps on Pages 24-25 (that is, doing the actual bleeding of the rear right brake). This step will purge air and brake fluid out of the brake actuator assembly in addition to purging air and brake fluid out of the right rear brake hose and caliper. Make sure that you do what ALK said when performing the bleed procedure with Techstream: park your car on a level surface, keep your steering wheel straight, and ensure that your brake actuator is in normal room temperature range. Adding a note: you must use "Actuator has been removed" bleed procedure to clear C1345 code. Using "Usual air bleeding" procedure won't clear C1345. The same is true for bleed rear right brake. Only the "Actuator has been removed" procedure purges air out of the actuator assembly. The regular "Usual air bleeding" procedure won't purge air out of brake actuator assembly.
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you said you followed his instructions but his i instructions he remove the 2 plugs from the accumulator. Idk what direction to follow. I just want to start over form the beginning bleeding everything. Do i have to unplug the accumulator later in the process?
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Old Mar 20, 2021 | 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by aristo1987
you said you followed his instructions but his i instructions he remove the 2 plugs from the accumulator. Idk what direction to follow. I just want to start over form the beginning bleeding everything. Do i have to unplug the accumulator later in the process?
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1. I thought that you said that you had already bled your front and rear brakes, and that you triggered C1345 code during the Linear Valve Offset process. That was why I suggested that you only need to dry-run the "Actuator has been removed" procedure to clear Code C1345, which is to begin the bleed process on Page 19 of the PDF brake bleed instruction. It doesn't require you to unplug the two brake accumulator pump power connectors unless, and only unless, you ran into the error message "Air bleeding has failed. Verify the initial conditions: 1... 2... 3..." when you attempted to bleed rear right brake. If you encounter this "Air bleeding has failed..." message, yes, you need to run Section 1 of the PDF instruction (Zero down accumulator pressure) and Section 2 (Disable electronic controlled brake, including unplugging and then reconnecting the two accumulator pump power connectors). The reason for this process is that your accumulator pressure needs to be low - around 0.5 volt - to allow you to bleed the brake system properly.
2. If you want to re-do everything (literally), you need to follow the PDF document from Page 1 through the last page faithfully, step by step (don't cut corners), including unplugging and re-plugging the two accumulator pump power connectors. Most people get stuck at Section 4 when they begin to bleed the right rear brake, at which point somehow the accumulator pump gets back its air pressure and prevents bleeding the right rear brake. When following the instruction in the PDF file, just be patient and handle every step with attention, and you will get through it and restore your brakes.
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Old Mar 21, 2021 | 12:14 PM
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Originally Posted by yyymmm31
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1. I thought that you said that you had already bled your front and rear brakes, and that you triggered C1345 code during the Linear Valve Offset process. That was why I suggested that you only need to dry-run the "Actuator has been removed" procedure to clear Code C1345, which is to begin the bleed process on Page 19 of the PDF brake bleed instruction. It doesn't require you to unplug the two brake accumulator pump power connectors unless, and only unless, you ran into the error message "Air bleeding has failed. Verify the initial conditions: 1... 2... 3..." when you attempted to bleed rear right brake. If you encounter this "Air bleeding has failed..." message, yes, you need to run Section 1 of the PDF instruction (Zero down accumulator pressure) and Section 2 (Disable electronic controlled brake, including unplugging and then reconnecting the two accumulator pump power connectors). The reason for this process is that your accumulator pressure needs to be low - around 0.5 volt - to allow you to bleed the brake system properly.
2. If you want to re-do everything (literally), you need to follow the PDF document from Page 1 through the last page faithfully, step by step (don't cut corners), including unplugging and re-plugging the two accumulator pump power connectors. Most people get stuck at Section 4 when they begin to bleed the right rear brake, at which point somehow the accumulator pump gets back its air pressure and prevents bleeding the right rear brake. When following the instruction in the PDF file, just be patient and handle every step with attention, and you will get through it and restore your brakes.
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Ok, so finally i was able to complete the whole brake bleeding procedure from page 1 to the end..it was hella tricky and a few information was missing when doing it from techstream but i just followed the directions.

At the end the code still remains and was not able to erase the code after memory reset and linear calibration 😥

Still getting the exact same code c1345 and c1368

Last edited by aristo1987; Mar 21, 2021 at 01:49 PM.
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Old Mar 21, 2021 | 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by aristo1987
Ok, so finally i was able to complete the whole brake bleeding procedure from page 1 to the end..it was hella tricky and a few information was missing when doing it from techstream but i just followed the directions.

At the end the code still remains and was not able to erase the code after memory reset and linear calibration 😥

Still getting the exact same code c1345 and c1368
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Sorry to hear that it didn't work. Trouble code C1345 means that linear solenoid valve is not initialized. This suggests that you didn't successfully complete the linear valve offset (calibration) procedure. Code 1368 means that the value of the solenoid valve and calibration in the brake control ECU (also commonly referred as the brake skid control module) is out of its normal range. That is, your brake skid control ECU is not functioning properly. In other words, although you felt and thought that you completed the linear valve offset procedure, DTC C1345 indicates that you didn't. The question is what prevents you from completing it. In most cases, when C1345 is accidentally triggered (often by low battery amps and voltage), running the "actuator has been removed" bleed procedure clears C1345 because this bleed procedure forces the pump to pressurize and makes it possible for the solenoid valve to initialize the calibration. In contrast, C1368 indicates that your brake skid control ECU doesn't function properly. Most shops resolve C1368 by replacing the bad brake skid control unit (the flat black box near the brake actuator assembly). However, your brake functioned normally before you reset the brake memory and attempted to recalibrate your actuator solenoid valve. So, logically, your brake skid control module should be mechanically fine. By any chance the wiring to the brake skid control module is loose (the wire connector are underneath the flat box)? My other uncertainty is the condition of your car's battery. To complete the linear valve offset procedure, your battery needs to be above 12.58V and supplies 30 amps or more current. My suggestion is that you check if the wiring to your brake skid control unit is securely connected and also check the condition of your battery. I'd further suggest that you disconnect the negative of the battery for 15-20 minutes (reset the electric system), before attempting another linear valve offset procedure.
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Old Mar 21, 2021 | 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by yyymmm31
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Sorry to hear that it didn't work. Trouble code C1345 means that linear solenoid valve is not initialized. This suggests that you didn't successfully complete the linear valve offset (calibration) procedure. Code 1368 means that the value of the solenoid valve and calibration in the brake control ECU (also commonly referred as the brake skid control module) is out of its normal range. That is, your brake skid control ECU is not functioning properly. In other words, although you felt and thought that you completed the linear valve offset procedure, DTC C1345 indicates that you didn't. The question is what prevents you from completing it. In most cases, when C1345 is accidentally triggered (often by low battery amps and voltage), running the "actuator has been removed" bleed procedure clears C1345 because this bleed procedure forces the pump to pressurize and makes it possible for the solenoid valve to initialize the calibration. In contrast, C1368 indicates that your brake skid control ECU doesn't function properly. Most shops resolve C1368 by replacing the bad brake skid control unit (the flat black box near the brake actuator assembly). However, your brake functioned normally before you reset the brake memory and attempted to recalibrate your actuator solenoid valve. So, logically, your brake skid control module should be mechanically fine. By any chance the wiring to the brake skid control module is loose (the wire connector are underneath the flat box)? My other uncertainty is the condition of your car's battery. To complete the linear valve offset procedure, your battery needs to be above 12.58V and supplies 30 amps or more current. My suggestion is that you check if the wiring to your brake skid control unit is securely connected and also check the condition of your battery. I'd further suggest that you disconnect the negative of the battery for 15-20 minutes (reset the electric system), before attempting another linear valve offset procedure.
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yep did i all that. Battery fully charged and was kept on a charger at all times. Unplug the battery and skid control for 4 hrs. Did the memory reset and linear calibration like a million times. Still the same results. This sucks big time.

Brakes are working fine but feel very sensitive take very little pressure to brake.
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Old Mar 21, 2021 | 10:21 PM
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Originally Posted by aristo1987
yep did i all that. Battery fully charged and was kept on a charger at all times. Unplug the battery and skid control for 4 hrs. Did the memory reset and linear calibration like a million times. Still the same results. This sucks big time.

Brakes are working fine but feel very sensitive take very little pressure to brake.
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I'm at my wit's end on this. The only thing I am certain of is that you linear valve offset was not completed successfully as long as you have current C1345 code. I am also a bit pleasantly surprised that your brakes work fine with live C1345 code. Typically, with C1345 current, brakes will show some abnormal behavior.
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Old Mar 22, 2021 | 04:36 AM
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I mean its definitely not the same as how it was before the codes came on. The car brakes, the pedal is not hard but definitely very sensitive. Also when braking i feel like it holds on for an extra .5 sec. But the car does break. For sure its not normal like how it was.


Originally Posted by yyymmm31
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I'm at my wit's end on this. The only thing I am certain of is that you linear valve offset was not completed successfully as long as you have current C1345 code. I am also a bit pleasantly surprised that your brakes work fine with live C1345 code. Typically, with C1345 current, brakes will show some abnormal behavior.
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Old Nov 27, 2022 | 10:20 PM
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Though an old thread,
bled brakes, actuator removed and failed at master cylinder or stroke simulator has been removed (on next screen solenoids (sc2 and scss) will be activate, then it says lost communication with vehicle....
i cleared my c1256 (accumulator low pressure) and co by driving my car 20 miles.
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